MerlinTheHapyPig

This happened to my car. I gaurantee the problem is your airflow meter. I changed mine and it completely fixed the problem. cleaning afm didn't work for me, just grab a second hand one from the wreckers. r33 and r32 gtst are the same. Cheers, Tim

16x8 +30mm offset heaps lighter than stock gts-t rims, dont' know exact weight though.

no

I'm not blowing a fuse. did u get the oil pressure gauge being wierd? where was the location of where the wire was shorting? car was hit front drivers side.

ok, checked for error codes on ecu. it flashes some lights, but i can't tell if it's saying everything is ok, or there is a problem.... but anyway. with the ECU unplugged, it does exactly the same thing, and unplugging battery doesn't seem to fix it. Also when ignition is in on, i can't use power windows or anything! Only lights on the dash are battery light and oil pressure light / gauge. has enough power to crank engine, so i know it's not the battery. I'm wondering if the battery shorted out or something.

I've done a search and can't seem to find any answers to the problem i'm having Now, I picked up the car from the panel beaters after getting some damage fixed and respray. The car won't start, you turn the key to on, the fuel pump doesn't prime at all and the oil pressure gauge goes all the way to the top, then you try cranking it, and it will crank, but won't start. If i disconnect the battery and leave it about 30 minutes or so, it will start, the car runs perfectly (idles smooth etc.), and then next time I go to start, i get the same problem. It's wierd that the oil pressure gauge goes all the way up (with motor off obviously before cranking it), so i'm thinking perhaps that's some way of the ecu signalling that something is wrong.. who knows. Anyway, any help on the matter is appreciated! car is an r32 gts-t with stock ecu.

I think alex was speaking strictly from a drift point of view. locked diff would suck for circuit -- as you said because of the poor turn-in, but are perfectly acceptable for drift. -- as is high spring rates from jap suspension (hey the japanese invented drift, so i think they know what they're talking about) It is hard to build a car for Drift and Circuit, because in circuit you are going for grip, and in drift traction is your enemy... Anyway, suspension and handling have been covered, so these are my suggestions for the other areas you mentioned Cooling - aftermarket radiator, oil cooler, aftermarket Intercooler Brakes - upgrade brake pads & brake fluid Performance - turbo back exhaust, aftermarket turbo, intake mods, computer, injectors, afm reliability - fuel pump, cooling mods, change all fluids and oils other - aftermarket seat / harness, steering wheel, shift knob, button clutch

please find out what offset they are. skyline offsets are around +30ish supra offsets are around +50-60ish which means, wheels could sit too far in the guards and possibly hit brake caliper / suspension. It's important to get offset right for wheels to fit properly. supra (jza80) rims are 5x114.3 which are same stud pattern as skyilne / ford / s14 / s15 / rx7. but offset's differ. supra wheels are usually similar to FC, but higher offset to skyline.

what offset and stud pattern?? holden commodores have different stud pattern to nissan skylines!? are the wheels multi stud?

yes, but car in question is an r32

nah, u don't have to take the hub off to get it back in. You do have to be careful though. put the stud in, use pliers to pull it as tight as you can to get it in the grooves. rather than putting the disc and wheel on though, use washers to space it a bit. This way, you can still reach the back of the stud, as you may need to hold it with pliers to stop it turning, while screwing on the nut.

stock gtr offset is +30 on 8inch wide

man, once you have the disc off, all you do, is bash the stud out, and then put new one in. easy-as!

stock r32 gts-t diff is a viscous lsd get a mechanical, they are well worth it (especially for drift...) garage-13 sell Kaaz 2-ways and 1.5way diffs fairly cheap, check link in my sig.

yeah, they are one of the best mods for drift especially. how much more direct is it!!? now you'll go and drive a skyline with stock rods, and the steering will feel so much more vauge. how much castor did u dial in? i think mine are set to +9 degrees

you can't use a gtr box in a gts-t due to AWD

before you go to epa. check that you *don't* have: - pod + intercooler - oil soaked element pod filter - boost controller - any type of aftermarket cpu or something that alters air/flow reading - blow-off valve - high mount turbo - make sure you have a cat convertor - make sure your exhaust is legal noise level sounds like your car was ok, if you were not given a defect aswell

redline mt-90 for gearbox then maybe motul or mobil1 for engine (actually i use pennzoil 10w40 for engine oil. works fine for me... make sure your engine oil is quality and correct weight, but i wouldn't go spending $100 for an oil change with redline stuff. just make sure you change every 4000-5000kms) probably redline for the diff aswell. though i wouldn't be too worried about diff oil with stock viscous lsd (just make sure the diff oil is for LSD, as the non-lsd diff oils are different)

yeah, does the idle go up and down between like 1k and 2k? try your local wreckers. r33 and r32 gtst are the same, or wtb section

one time, i did 200kms for a full tank (though that was 95% drift) ... but seriously. i'd probably average around 450-500kms a tank (depending on how i drive it). Going up to the grampians (highway driving) i think i got around 600 or so kms from a tank.

don't think u get a fine. u will just a letter saying you need to go and get an emissions test.

ooops......

huh? just pour new coolant in till it's full start engine with heater on full and radiator cap off then, keep filling while air bubbles go out

imo, i prefer skylines in general comparing s13's vs r32's, you'll find that the S series of cars in japan is marketed as the budget model, (price of a '92 gtst was 2,638k yen, price of a '92 180sx sr20det was 1,937). And you find that S13's cut a lot of corners (smaller oil lines, shit brakes, 4-stud, smaller radiator, cheaper looking interior etc.) However, in defence to sr20det's rb20's have SFA low-down torque compared to SRs, and for off-boost drivability the sr's have a lot going for them. the upside to rb20det's is they love to rev their tits off and are practically bulletproof, whilst sr's don't like the high rpm as much and tend to die more often and are expensive to replace c/w rb20det's.... a sr 180sx will probably out-perform (stock vs stock), but i think the skyline just feels like a much more "complete" car to me.

no, plastic is wrong it should be metal, and exactly same size, just mine didn't have the bend in the pipe. they probably gave you one from one of the rb30 locally delivered skylines