MerlinTheHapyPig

yeah, my 32 was doing the same thing http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=74808 i just dug this up, here is my description of the problem Someone suggested I change afm's and it solved the problem completely. I tried cleaning it first, and this didn't fix it, I had to completely replace If you have a friend with an r32, try swapping airflow meters about 3 or 4 people posted later in that thread saying that they had the same problem and afm fixed it.

or, do it yourself all you do is remove the brake caliper then remove the disc and bash the stud out with a hammer (rears are a little hard to get it past the drum brake, you have to rotate it to right spot)

i just went to parts store and asked for one to fit my car. though i might add, the stock one has a bend in one of the pipe's going into filter. the replacement they gave me, the line was straight. It worked fine, but i couldnt get the filter back in the braket ps. check your other thread

don't use degreaser to clean an afm, carby cleaner or brake cleaner it sounds like the problem is your air-flow meter. are you using a HKS powerflow style pod filter with an oiled foam element? What happens, is the oil from the pod filter, hits the airflow meter sensor and screws it up, you can't really fix this by cleaning it, when it happened to my car, i needed to replace AFMs (r33 and r32 gts-t afms are the same btw)

use a small screwdriver to remove the 2 hose clamps, and remove. No real trick to it, you may find it easier to remove the filter from the braket to get to bottom hoseclamp rememebr to wait for engine to cool down so you dont burn yourself on intake manifold

sounds like a head gasket most likely

did you hit the front passenger side wheel? 0 degrees camber on left side is probably your culprit it means something is bent

hmm, it really depends how much you will be using the lsd. a shim is ok, but when used for drift for example, it will wear out and start single spinning again in a matter of months. for drag, a 1-way or 1.5-way is fine. a 2-way is probably not necessary, and less street-able.

post the results of the wheel algnment, they should give you a sheet which shoes how much camber/toe/castor you're running

Why pay performance shop prices to do basic servicing? those prices are outragious. rb25's are pretty simple to work on don't go to ice, just take it to any mechanic.

bent control arm? does the car drive straight?

well, if you need a project manager to besh some subcontractors, i'm your man.

was hopin to drive, but unfortunantly. no i'll be going up with alex (Garage-13), so feel free to pop in and say hi in the pits if you get a chance

hehe good ol' engine swap.. that was such a bitch to get the engine in, feking sr20 mounts were different in the end i think... actually his silvia has been off the road since then, i think it'll be fixed this week. feel free to call him up and give him shit. good luck with getting the kit fitted, let me know how you go!

yeah, box behind dash - there is a guide in the faq's/tech articles section i think stupid ding-dong box take it out, and test that you haven't taken the wrong box out, and then smash it with a hammer, post pics!

hmm, okies, i don't wanna say anything that will contradict what alex has told you. But everything i've purchased from him in the past i've been told if it doesn't work he'll swap or refund. I've had experience with sellers in the past who have sold me parts which were faulty and i've been basically told "bad luck" also, just be aware, that the seller can claim on the warranty for you, as they will have purchased the parts from a proper supplier. So effectively, they * can* offer you a warranty. even if the manufacturer only gives warrantys to proper suppliers

in my experience. Running more castor gives steering a much more direct feel and a lot less vauge than stock, so maybe the castor rod has been bent slightly reducing the amount of castor. Post the wheel alignment results castor rods are heaps easier than tie rods 1 bolt goes through eye of the castor rod, and 2 nuts under the control arm, that's all. 17mm from memory on a 32 If you're replacing them, may as well get aftermarket adjustable pillowball castor rods. +9 degrees of castor feel sooo much better than stock.

alot of sellers on the forums and ebay (garage-13.com for example in my sig) will offer refunds/replacements on faulty parts, then the seller claims on the warranty later.

for skylines, good compression is around 145-175psi anything lower than 125psi is considered bad. (from memory reading it in rb20 engine manual) and variance of + / - 5psi is bad to do comp test. ----------- car should be warm. start engine, remove fuel pump fuse (or disconnect fuel pump from boot) car will stall, remove all spark plugs, insert comp tester into spark plug hole, with throttle floored, crank engine a few times, until comp reading on gauge is steady. not sure how to do leakdown test, as i've never done one my 1989 rb20det tested 151 150 150 150 150 149 from memory, which is fine. Most 4-cyl sr20det's and ca18dets i've tested have come out more like 165 psi but it all depends on how worn the engine is.

yes, redline is good. I use redline mt-90 in r32 gtst gearbox. Very Very good

take it back to whoever did the tie rod & wheel alignment

you have to get the old pad, and put it on concrete surface with pad surface down, then stand on it and rub it this gets rid of any grooves cut into the pad by uneven wear on the rotor they usually say when you get new discs to get new pads aswell because if you don't rough up the pad surface, it will cut the same grooves into the disc surface

just get a breaker bar and use it gently make sure you use the right tools, otherwise you'll round the nut i think it's 14mm from memory

easy to remove disc all you do is jack up car, take off wheel, unbolt caliper (2 bolts only) and then pull disk forward. Rears can be hard to pull off because of drum brake, there are 2 screw holes in disk, you screw in appropriately sized bolts and it pushes against the hub to remove it easily. anyway, there is a 5 or 6 page tutorial, but what i just wrote sums it up pretty good....

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/ before you bid, get a price direct from rda. from memory for solid standard rotors i paid $99 per rotor. RDA are fine, and also a lot cheaper than DBA