MerlinTheHapyPig

good reply sk ( /me bookmarks thread for future reference) if you wanna go sard injectors SARD High Resistance Fuel Injector 550cc Top Feed (63506) SARD High Resistance Fuel Injector 800cc Top Feed (63565) ^model number for rb20det. rb26 injectors are a common upgrade for CA18DET in fact, as they are both the same impedence/type series 4 rx7 injectors (555cc) i *think* are a common upgrade for rb20det, but i'm not 100% on that, so best to check before you go out and buy some.

for that price u may as well go aftermarket. get more steering lock check www.garage-13.com in suspension section

thanks for the reply. I can't remember who told my gtr rear swaybars are a good upgrade, though I do recall a few people discussing it on nissansilvia.com as an upgrade for S13. I'll be ordering the whitline ones if they're as good as you say they are!

yeah, i've read the thread about adjustable ones. I'm more interested in how a stock gtr will compare to the whiteline ones on a gts-t...

afaik should be very similar to r32 and s13

Firstly, I've been told R32 gtr rear sway bars are a good upgrade for a gts-t how do these compare to the whiteline packages? (i'm only thinking about rear sway bar upgrade for now) the main attraction of gtr rear sway bar's are that they are cheap! and i'm not serious enough about drifting to make full use of adjustability etc. so i'm happy to go for a "half way" compromise. I've been told a stiffer rear swaybar will increase oversteer (whilst a stiffer front swaybar will increase understeer) is this correct? I've been reading into it a bit, and i've seen a lot of people overlook sway bars in their drift setup. So i'm just curious how useful swaybard upgrades are for drift (as opposed to track work).

huh??? the answer is definantly NO 32gtr suspension will not fit 32gts-t however it will fit 32gts-4

I'm after an R32 front intrusion bar for my gts-t. There must be heaps of these floating around from front cuts / people removing them to fit front bars. But not exactly a high demand part. send me a PM / post if you have one Cheers, -Tim K

if you go a 32, consider an rb25det swap.. the rb20det's imo don't have enough low down torque c/w rb25/sr20

they are all performance workshops, I fail to see the difference, amberley and rank will charge top dollar, i'm not denying that, but they seem alot more professional, and I feel more confident leaving my car there. If a mechanic/workshop won't give me information on what they did, I just won't pay them until they tell me!!!!!! :lol:

you are talking about the difference between a $20k car and a $30-40k car imo, a gtr will probably be better, but FD's look farking hawt!!!! Be wary of a lot of the really cheap 1989 r32 gtr's which have been flooding the market recently, because they're getting old. a couple of people I know who imported r32 gtr's under 15 year rule have had engines die on them etc.

building cars / running businesses are separate things there are a couple of bad stories about ICE going around, but this thread isn't a place to discuss this. My main complaint about ice are that they are not very professional. They just say "the car will be done when it's done, and we'll call you". If you go to Amberleys or Rank Rotary (though they don't tune power fc) or race pace. They are much more professional and organised (from experiences with myself and friends), and will say "pick it up on ... and it'll be done"

i'd go racepace over ICE any day of the week!!!!

... i know you already bought them, but just thought i'd add http://www.garage-13.com/ has Tien c-spanners for coilovers for $55 for a pair.

installing the gtr diff will be similar cost to installing the kaaz centre (maybe more hassel if tailshaft/driveshafts doesn't bolt up to the gtr housing) if you don't want to crack open the diff housing, maybe look for a second hand 2 way (eg nismo, cusco, or kaaz) which comes with housing. But seriously changing centres isn't very hard, main time consuming part of changing diff is removing / reinstalling the diff housing from the car.

at the moment, it's just a proposal http://www.arrivealive.vic.gov.au/forms/ydsafety_1_form.php (follow link under 'additional information' to young driver discussion paper) check out the above link for more info. As mentioned, it's asking for public comment, so if you oppose these changes either use the online form on the above website. Or write to Discussion Paper – Young Driver Safety VicRoads Reply Paid 61943 KEW VIC 3101 I would think that most people on this forum might object to one of the suggested guidelines "Review high-powered vehicle provisions" Now is you chance to have a say on the issue, and I'd encourage everyeone to fill out the forum. P-platers are outnumbered by the rest of the car-driving community so it's important that as many people respond to this issue as possible.

I think i've posted this link about 100 times or so in this section. But it's a very useful link. http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html Use this to enter the offset and width of you current wheels, then input offsets of wheels you will like to buy and it'll tell you how far it'll stick out compared to your old rims, and how much clearance you'll have with the strut housing. (maybe sk you should add this to the top post)

That is a lot of labour ($372.50) when realistically, this will take less than a day to do for an apprentice mechanic. Maybe you should buy all the fluids yourself and take it to average joe's mechanic and ask them to do it. I'm not sure what retail prices for all the motul fluids are, but a fuel filter should not cost $90, they're more like $15. Unless R33's have some gold plated fuel filter or something, the one for my r32 cost about $15 I do all my servicing for the skyline myself, but the mechanic who did work on my old car charged me $55 for a service. this is for oil & oil filter change and inspection (granted, they used shit 20w40 mineral oil which i wouldn't use in a skyline) Performance workshops rip you off for basic mechanical work, the only thing i'd go to a performance workshop is any custom work or tuning. everything else is basic mechanical work, and it doesn't matter who does it. DO make sure however that they use good oils etc. and you'll be sweet! The service I did in my car when it first arrived, was something like oil $40 filter $10 gearbox oil $110 (redline mt90) diff oil $20 fuel filter $15 total $195 vs ~$900 haven't done brake fluid (been putting it off), and my spark plugs were fine. Check your plugs, you mightn't need to change them, as the car probably has iridiums anyway, and they last for like 100,000kms

Just copy and fill in the table; Skyline model = R32 GTSt Wheel diameter = 18" Wheel width = 10" Wheel offset = +1mm Tyre size = cant remember probably 245 or 255 Modifications to fit = Roll & flare guards, stick out about 4cm from existing guards. needs a rear bar for them to look good... not good for defects..... almost needs widebody... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000091.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000070.jpg

how much will a gtr diff centre cost? a brand new Kaaz mechanical LSD (2way or 1.5way) will only set you back around $1,100

ouch, looks pretty nasty mate, hope no-one was hurt. g/l with the sale

it has a built in turbo timer I know someone who knows a way of wiring up the alarm with a separate turbo timer, so there is definantly a way of doing it.

hmm, i always thought the lights identical, but the side indicators are slightly bigger on the GTR There are 2 style headlights for gts-t, one with projector light in middle. anyway g/l with the sale.

still for sale...

rear is still for sale...... anyone interested?