MerlinTheHapyPig

I'm after a pair of JDM s15 headlights, will pay top dollar, any condition. Not Australian delivered s15, must be JDM version. PM Me (melbourne only, pickup preferred)

Bolt-on wheel spacers

PM box limit is now 100messages, it used to be 200 messages. this is really annoying, coz i had to go throuhg and delete 60 or so messages this morning so my PM box would let me receive messages. also. "fast reply" and trader ratings as mentioned above

You cannot get 10mm bolt-on's because it needs to be wide enough to allow for the extra bolts. PM me if you are after some spacers, I can get 20mm, 25mm or 30mm they are $85 each

keep in mind offset depends on wheel width. so +35 on 8inch wide is different to +35 on 9 inch wide in victoria, wheel spacers are 100% not legal, not sure about other states.

what offset are rims?

Type M Imports 14 Glomar Crt Dandenong South 3164 (03) 9793 0235

As per the title, I need to get new rear drum brake shoes, as they're stuffed and the brakes aren't working very well any more. Does anyone know the part number / where I can get new shoes, or should I just remove the old ones and take them to a brake place? Is for a R32 GTS-t type-m need to know urgently! drift on friday.....

no

1. LSD's need an overhaul from time to time (re-shim) adds more cost. A welded diff will need to be replaced. I've been drifting with my diff 3 nights a week for about 4-5 months now and it's holding up to the challenge no probs! 2. 2-way is just as safe/unsafe as it does the same thing! 3. 2-ways are also not legal! 4. 2-ways cost more, and require servicing/reshim's Have you driven with a locked diff before? have you driven with a good 2-way? a 2 way in good condition is just the same as welded, (however it will unlock with the clutch in). imo, they are perfectly safe, people have this misconception that as soon as you go around a corner in the wet, you'll loose control. This is not true, you just have to be a bit wary of how the car will react. A locked diff is far more predictable than a viscous lsd or an open wheeler, and if i was in the situation where i lost control in the wet, i'd rather have the confidence you get with a locker that i can put the power down all the time!

why wouldn't you weld a diff in a r32? best mod i ever did!!! (not to mention cheapest)

hehe, sorry rb26 4-doors not welcome.....

no, you won't need a hicas lock bar, but hicas + drift adds an element of unpredictability (if you're using it for drift of course) Just a side note, you'll have to unbolt some of the hicas bits in order to unbolt the diff housing, but nothing major. good luck with the diff locking!

mine runs fine, no problems and very happy in fact. you can re-use the stock sock filter just to be safe, though predator is the only person i've heard of who has experienced this problem before. I'm interested to hear who else is having problems with walbros, and who they bought them off if "plenty of people are haiving problems" with them. Another note, there is a thread about someone on this forum who has been selling Walbro rip-off's(Cefiro_PWA) (which don't have proper model number & walbro logo & pat numbers stamped on them), be wary of them, as they are not the same quality as proper walbro's. It's sticked in the for sale section / parts & acc classifieds fyi

wow, nice gold digging.... btw, if the balance between left and right braking is ok, if you just want to tighten the lever, see the second post in this thread, that's all you need to adjust.

r32 gts-t has a viscous lsd

can't say I have, but if the computer doesn't get a reading from the AFM it goes into limp mode and won't let the car rev. Good place to start diagnosing... firstly check the plug for the AFM, then if it's plugged in, unplug it and see if the car runs the same. though maybe have a search in forced induction section, because it could be a common problem....

i've been told that they flow very well, but don't cool well.

check air flow meter

keep in mind that both offset & width will determine how much the wheels are out the guards. There is a wheel offset calculator that you may find useful: here... http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

generally a fuel pressure reg isn't needed - as the stock reg can cope. They are mainly used to make it easier to tune the car as they make the fuel pressure curve more linear (so i've been told). Having said that, you may benefit from a re-tune (if you have an aftermarket computer.)

long way to drive from west side..... ICE are good, they'll take care of you. but installing fuel pump is child's play. you'll probably pay a bit more than you would going to your local mechanic.

yes, you won't always see a "lip" develop on the rotors, so only way to tell is to measure the thickness. If it's under the min thickness you will need to replace. once you get the front pads & rotors replaced, there is an amazing difference! you will love your brakes compared to what they would have previously felt like. when my car came from japan, rwc check said to replace fronts and rear rotors. I replaced the fronts first, *huge* difference in braking power. Then about 4 days later I did the rears (i had to wait for them to be ordered from factory). Not as much difference, you'll be sweet just replacing fronts as they are the most important. I used RDA rotors, which are cheaper than DBA, and probably just as good. should have gone slotted, but at the time I didn't think about it, I just wanted to get the car rego'd asap. My front & rear rotors cost $100 x 4 (I called up RDA directly, then went to brakes plus and asked them to match the price i was quoted). pads cost $100 per set x 2 I installed them myself (they're easy to do, i think there is a tutorial in the tech section) so probably saved $100-200 or so there.

good to hear! mine are legit, and I'm happy to offer a refund for anyone who is not happy with the authenticity of the pump.

fuel pump won't be the problem, but you may want to upgrade for reliability reasons (stock pump can fail). also if it's running rich, safe bet it's not the fuel pump. It's always good to run a little rich, as it's good insurance against burning valves.. did the workshop who dyno'd the car comment on a low reading? some dyno's can be fairly conservative. and if it's a no-name front mount, chances are it's a hybrid copy or something, which are very poor quality coolers. if your car has those mods, it will probably be in need of a tune. and maybe get a workshop to plug in consult port which will tell if o2 sensor is broke, or injectors are maxing out, or afm isnt' working or whatever. also, don't run more than 12psi on stock turbo! hope this helps! i mean, how does the car feel on the road? does it feel like it should have more power? perhaps go to a couple of car dealerships and see what a stock r33 should feel like.