MerlinTheHapyPig

Thanks mate, payment showed up this afternoon. Pump will be sent on Monday via Express Post. I hadn't replied to your PM because the payment hadn't shown up in the account yet!! sometimes it can take a day or two for it to come through. Regards, Tim K

s13 and r32 are interchangable. don't think r33 are. get in touch with the guy who sold them to you.

how do u mean fail? as in they started fading? or they lost power completely. also check that your rotors have good thickness, and no problems with master cylinder. also, i can't remember if it's dot 5.2 or dot 5 fluid that you aren't ment to use without full flush. but might wanna look into that.

use http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html to find out how much more/less clearance you'll have with the new rims compared to the old rims. then perhaps measure how much clearance you have with the suspension components & brake calipers. brake calipers are hard to judge, because of different spoke styles.

PMs sent Pick up is avaliable I'll have to look further into pressures etc. I seem to remember last time i researched it (post earlier in the thread) that they can handle more pressure than a GTR pump as they don't have a cut-off valve at a certain PSI. The pressure curve was about equivalent to a Brand New R33 GTR pump. I can always get these pumps. expect 1-2 weeks delivery (from when I receive deposit) - less if I have some on hand.

i have a couple at the moment, pm me if you want one. should be less than a week delivery if i still have it by the time you pay. cheers, tim

yeah, my fronts are a bit stretched too, 215's on an 8inch rim. they're getting munted big-time - like camber wear, and chunks coming off the side..., but i can't tell if that's from the stretched look, or the amount of drift i've been doing recently, coz the braking drift is really going through front tyres.

http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html enter your stock offset/width and you'll see how much it'll stick out. 10-20mm out the guards is sweet, just get them rolled/flared. i would definantly only put them on the rears with 10inch wide though.

no, some non-type m had 4-stud and also some non-type m had CA18DET's in them aswell there were some really early model r32's with wierd stuff like that.

hmm, might try mobil 1 next time, slightly thicker. im using 10w40 at the moment.

www.slidewizeimports.com ask zac to import you some

http://toy4two.home.mindspring.com/offset.html ^ wheel offset calculator, very useful tool http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=75912 ^ good thread on offsets

aftermarket tie rods give more lock have a look at http://www.garage-13.com/suspension.html

currently running 225s on a 17 x 9inch rim, they are fine. could probably go 215s, any lower than 215s and it's gonna be a real bitch to fit. gonna try 225s on a 10inch wide rim, i'll let u know how it goes...

i say, wait till both cars arrive, and decide then i'd stay away from the first car if it has non-type-m brakes, 4 stud hubs. And drive both cars, see which one has tighter engine/gearbox/clutch etc. Also sometimes it's hard to tell from the pics how good the paintwork actually is. you may need to respray the grey one. The rims on the first car look crap imo, even crapper if they are 4-stud coz you'll have trouble finding decent rims because most of the good stuff is 5-stud only. If you post the cars vin numbers (HCR32-XXXXXX) i'll look them up in fast for you.

i think before you start wondering what's wrong with your engine, get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge & sender, just to make sure it's not the stock sender which is providing inaccurate readings. (actually, after driving the car this morning and paying more attention to the gauge, i'll revise what i said before. when warm driving at constant speed, it's usually on around 2.5-3ish.)

lol, the ding-dong box. i think it's behind the dash somewhere, possibly an article in tech about how to remove it. take it out and smash it with a hammer!!!!! f**king ding-dong-box

that's normal afaik. mine reads 4 cold idle, but driving normally sits at around 1.5-2ish and sits really low when stopped at lights. i've been told higher than 2 is bad once the car is warm. there is a red light that comes on which is the oil pressure warning light (it comes on when u start car for a second or two). i figure if that light's not on, all good! also the stock oil pressure sender & gauge is crap, so go aftermarket if you want to keep a better track of oil pressures.

sr20det has a lot better low-end than rb20det. off-boost torque on the rb20 is really bad. but yeah, rb20det much more revvy than sr. and really loves the high rpm. it feels fine at 7000-8000rpm, while sr20det's will hate it! Also stock turbo on sr20det is steel wheel and more laggy. but ceramic wheel in rb20det turbo's are prone to crapping itself if you boost it too high. i use rb20det and i'm planning on leaving it that way, but i'm not chasing huge power figures, working more on suspension & drivetrain mods than outright power. but yeah, main factor for me is rb20det's are cheap!! but i haven't blown an engine yet. it's been holding up quite well seeing as i've been drifting it 4/7 days each week for the last month or so... (stock boost still though...)

no, it's carbon deposits which the oil is ment to remove, that turns it black. oil is ment to come out black, that means that it's doing it's job

lol.... go widebody!!!!! just personal preference, i like wide rims with low offsets and heaps of dish, so they stick out of the guards and need flaring/widebody!!! and i'm not into chrome! (i'm using 17x9's with a similar offset...) i'm just saying, i think the price is high for 17x8.5's. it wasn't a personal attack on your preference or anything! the rims look very nice.

what sk suggests sounds good. I'm running +8 caster ....stock everything else...... i've been told that 0 camber on rears is good for drift because tyres will wear evenly. can anyone who knows what they're talking about suggest why this is good or not good?

no problems, pump is direct fit for r32 (and most skylines & silvias)

www.garage-13.com i believe can help you with 5-stud conversions (and 4-5 stud spacers) bolt on spacers are a bit dodgy, as they weaken everything. Not to mention illegal (for that very reason). The advantage of 5-stud is that u get skyline brakes (go for r33, they are the best for the price), do ceffy's have a inner-drum brake for the handbrake or are they like s13? inner-drum handbrakes (like skylines have) lock up hard. they're great for drift!!

hmm, intersting. i've usedcoilovers that have been blown. they were knocking like a bitch, but no leaks and everything was straight. Tried drifting on them, and everything went to shit.. maybe when things warm up, they're ok