MerlinTheHapyPig

yes, well take statements like that with a grain of salt. you need to look at the car yourself to figure out if the engine/turbo's in good shape or not. generally, if the car is stock standard (stock airbox/exahust) it's 90% likely it hasn't had the boost increased (though they could have removed mods), but that doesn't mean the owner hasn't driven the car hard. Mods such as front mount cooler, aftermarket turbo, bleed valve(duh), large number of performance mods are indications that the boost has been increased at some point. a compression test might also reveal if it's been boosted no1 buys a turbo and drives it like a grandma all the time, you have to expect that the car will have been abused from time to time (compared to the stocko family car)

this is a common problem usually related to using an aftermarket steering wheel, which means hicas can't figure out what angle you are turning. it's been discussed quite a bit, i think there is a thing in the tutorials section, or try searching.

havent had a chance yet. ill let u know when i do. i drove the car a bit today and it didn't happen. I want to get a new pod filter b4 i put a new afm in it. so i don't fudge up the new afm.

^ link above is for walbro 255l/hr pump btw...

there is a rubber seal that seals the pump-assembly & cover in place, *make sure you don't drop it into the tank* because if it gets lots of fuel on it, it breaks really easily, and will probably need replacing. also be careful reconnecting the fuel lines, coz when the car is like 10-15 years old they break easily. just keep in mind the above things, replacing fuel pump is easy to do yourself. You'll need a basic set of socket wrenches, a screw driver, some pliers and a soldering iron. If you want a good replacement pump, for better reliability & fuel flow than stock, look here: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=90811 i am using one of the walbro's myself, and they are excellent. It's a good reliability mod, since fuel pump failure can kill engines!

well, when the problem starts happening, you use the hand controller and see if it's getting a reading from the afm, and if it is, if it's normal. same can be achieved by using the cars Consult connector if you have the required hardware. another thing you can do is disable certain sensors this is useful for tracking down problems.

wish i had a powerfc, coz i'd be able to tell straight away which sensor isn't working i'll swap afm with a friend, and see how that goes. Yes, i am using a HKS foam-type/oiled filter, so i reckon that's the problem

hi there, i am having the same problem, and am also trying to diagnose it. Ok, from time to time, just driving normally, it'll "hesitate" and u litterally loose all power for a split second, then it comes back on. It does this from time to time when it's bad. it'll do it alot. (like on-off-on-off bucking you describe). and eventually u usually have to pull over. When i pull over. revs will idle funny - like 1k - 2k - 1k - 2k - 1k - 2k back and forth for a while, and will then either settle down, or the car will stall. Although idle is jumping between 1 and 2k, it's still smooth, when you're standing still, it's not eratic. (does it do this on your car?) Because it's idling like this, i'm wondering if it might be a Idle-control valve problem, or coolant temp sensor. The other thing i'm getting is an unusually high cold-idle in the morning - this could be unrelated however. I haven't checked for ECU fault codes, but i'll do this tomorrow morning. I've tried removing the bov and blocking intake off with a plate, and blocking vac-line off, but makes no difference. -Tim

$25 per guard? that's not bad. do you use a heat gun to stop paint from cracking? i am interested in pics. do u also do flaring? cheers, -Tim

try and avoid driving it hard when it's hot weather. i've had no problems drifting with stock cooler/turbo (r32gtst), but a bit of extra power would definantly help. as long as you are keeping the boost stock, then you should be ok, if you want to start increasing boost get a cooler, and also consider aftermarket turbo's (ceramic turbine wheel on skyline is nice for early spool-up, but they tend to crap themselves above 1bar boost)

they are for rolling guards to accomodate larger rims. They bolt onto the wheel hub, and enlarge the inner side of the guards i think there is a website something like www.guardroller.com which has instructional video's and stuff.

try putting some more air in tyres. this will help if you are slightly below legal height. Foam pod filters such as HKS Power Flow filters are illegal, as they are an unboxed, oiled filter.

try to keep revs above 2k. If you're cruising at less than 2k, you won't be getting very good oil pressure/flow. I try to keep it between 2000-2800rpm when shifting

yeah, i still get confused when taking bolts off nothing really comes to mind in terms of stupid stuff, but definantly check that stuff is broken b4 u try and fix it. one time my car wouldn't start, so i narrow it down to the starter motor solenoid. so i take the starter out, and take it to an autoelec, who tests it, and says it all works fine, so i take it back to the car, hook it all up, and car starts perfectly. must have been a loose connection, but didn't save me roughly 1.5hrs of driving in a mates car coz we were in the country

just to elaborate on what i just said th ough, a comrpession test won't pick up everything i've comp tested ca18det's which were piston slapping pieces of crap and they pulled 165-170psi all round i've also tested an ex-drifted sr20 which got 165psi but engine ran nice and smoothly, just had been driven on rev-limiter for most of it's life...

yeah, as long as no huge difference, then it's probably ok, does the engine run smoothly etc? dont' rebuild/replace just coz of a low compression from memory, i got 152psi +/- ~2psi

ill be ripping up the beginners section! watch out for the 4 dr r32

yeah, you'll take it off, and then tip out the fuel that was in there, and it'll be like brown. like muddy water sorta colour! I also changed the gearbox oil and diff oil, and, usual service, check all other fluid levels, check for wear on belts, check for any damaged/frayed lines. If you're curious, also do a compression test, and if car has done 100,000kms, do the timing belt if it hasn't been done already.

I drove my car from depot, to my house, around a bit to show my mates, to compliance and back. maybe 200kms. Then i changed the oil. It's really an unknown, you don't know when the oil was last changed, then you have to factor in for the car sitting in dealership, at docks, on boat etc. usually the car will be sitting idle for 3-6 months. Oil will go bad over time, even if car is not driven, which is why oil change intervals is "5000kms or 6 months whichever comes first". So, worst case scenario, assuming owner properly maintaned it, was that it was just due for an oil change when it was sold, so 9-12 months without oil change. I personally wouldn't worry about it, just open oil cap, and feel oil, if it's smooth and doesn't smell burnt, then keep it, if it's gritty or smells burnt, then get it changed. just take it to a local mechanic - dont bother changing filter. then when you do proper service, change filter and put decent oil in. i'd just do the change yourself, it's a 30 minute job, and will cost you less than $50, if you have a mate nearby where you're picking it up, just do it at his/her place.

Ok, here's the deal Im trying to figure out if my oil pressure gauge is stuffed, or something is causing low oil pressure. Sorta happens sometimes, it will just read 0 oil pressure, but the warning light won't come on and then other times, it'll be perfectly normal. It's started to do this more often, and doesn't seem to happen sometimes regardless of engine being warm/cold etc. Would installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge use a seperate pressure sender? or will it just hook onto the stock one? I just figure this will let me get an accurate reading, coz it could just be the gauge is stuffed.

congrats mate, nice one, 4dr 32's are sick. under 15 year rule, mine was $1250 to comply. i paid for my car in mid october, and it arrived mid january, so for me it was a 3 month turnaround. It's cost me around $10.500 complied and regod. roadworthy was fairly pricy, had to change all discs and pads. --- oh yeah, remember to service it as soon as you get back from compliance. at the very least change the engine oil and filter. who knows when it was last changed, and its probably been sitting in a dealership/warehouse/docks for 6 months or so next step is a manual conversion if you want to get into a bit of drift. get an rb25det gearbox though.

a compression test should reveal if head gasket is blown, you also may be getting white smoke from exhaust. other wise, as you said, the only other area where oil goes near coolant is in the turbo, so you can also get that looked at. If the turbo is blown, you'll also probably get smoke from exhaust also. best way to check is comp test it

mines datsun? he was ment to be driving the blue 180sx, he posted on fulllock.com forum as PMC180 his car didn't pass screwtiny, due to something to do with the headlights i believe. the r32 i think you're talking about is the white/grey 4 door r32, this is my car, and me and Alex (www.garage-13.com) were driving it. u might have been confused because Alex was driving the blue 180sx at the last drift night for a small amount of time. This was the 180sx who did a burnout through the pit lane, it was actually mines_datsun who was driving that time (not G13 alex) Gets confusing, because alex (G13) and alex (minesdatsun/redfc/pmc180/doridori) have the same name. so that's the story.....

redline is the best, but too expensive for 5,000km change imho. use redline in your gearbox, it's like $120 for 4 litres, but u wont have to change it again for a while. i also wouldn't use 50 weight, i'd go 10w40.

yeah, i got it too.... what the hell???????