MerlinTheHapyPig

any conversation with police is an interview, and you have the right to record an interview. i wouldn't recommend doing this, becuase it's kinda inflammatory, he/she might have been prepared to let you off light i suggest you ask 'smokey' on www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php as he works for a TMU in victorian police, and is quite helpful - and will be able to give you a definitive answer. or try posting in http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=74315

front bar can be repaired pretty easy, or you can just buy a new one. rear bumper will come straight off, im not sure where the screws are, but usually there are bolts that you get to from inside of boot on edges of bumper, there may also be ones on top of bumper, u may have to take out indicators to get to them. (i dont know, never worked on 33's b4) you may have to replace indicators. hard to tell from pics, doesnt look like there is damage to the boot lid or brake lights i'd say first step is to remove the rear and front bumper and rear indicators. and then you check for damage to the cars frame, with luck you may just be able to straigh replace the panels - that's probably easiest option, but if frame is damaged, they may not line up properly, which means you'll have to take it to a panel beater and get them to fit it. check the for sale section. if exhaust is bent should be easy to fix, just take it to an exhaust place, you could also take the muffler off and just take that, or fix it yourself with a hammer! this shows how rear bumper all goes together... hope this helps

power fc's are sweet. the best computer you can get, don't bother going for wolf3d or piggy back units etc, you'll save only a few hundred bucks, and you'll probably make that up in fuel economy. get a good performance workshop to tune it. I've had a quote for $500 for full install and full dyno tune at a place around here, but haven't really looked around. seems reasonable though tuning is the one thing that you definantly want to go to a good, experienced mechanic/workshop to get done, who knows pfc's and imports. hard to give an exact figure for power increases, it depends on what mods it has and who tunes it! (how long is a piece of string?). but if you're running a decent exhaust, filter, injectors, fmic and a few other mods on a stock computer with stock maps, expect to get a good increase. If the car is stock, and you intend to keep it that way, then there wont be as much benefit.

go for a decent pod filter, they should be easy to install. just get one for an r32 gtst and it'll come with all the bits and pieces you need, and probaly a badly translated instruction booklet. Bleed valves are a bad idea, he should have an exhaust before he starts upping the boost. or just get him a nice looking boost gauge or something else interior wise (maybe a steering wheel or something) it really depends on what this shop has.

yeah, dont boost stock turbo too much, ceramic turbine will crap itself. it's ok on s13's which have steel turbines, but be careful with that ceramic sh1t so, did u locate the problem before replacing your coil packs? or do u have some new coils u need to offload?

dude, when do you normally shift? if im driving to work/uni, i rarely get to 3krpm before changing. id usually change at about 2600-2700, probably less coz im usually in traffic. keep it off boost, saves fuel too..

you can't get a front cut welded on, and still maintain structural integrety of original car frame, you wont' be able to rego the thing, if you do that. I've never heard of anyone doing that to a car. www.justjap.com has prices for half cuts.

was gonna say AAC valve, could also have a look at water temp sensor.

when you take off the ding-dong box, smash it with a hammer, and post pics... (check first to make sure you pulled out the right box) drives you insane on western/hume hwy where limit is 110km/hr. I can never be bothered taking it out, might be something to do this afternoon...

yeah, damn tyre guys, we ended up buying some rims from someone!

any mechanic can do it, as long as they are reputible. You get the parts from nissan. (or, you could go aftermarket, but you'd have to find something with same specs as stock obviously) im not sure about the part numbers, it depends on which car. post your VIN and i'll look it up for you. Dont think the aussie dealers will have much info on imports, but you could always ask. You could always just take it to a mechanic, and say "change the timing belt", and let them supply the parts.

do_the_busstop is right those details are correct this same guy (Alex) also got a regular and experienced drifter banned at the most recent Drift practice night... doing burnouts in the pits

ok then, well mine does! anyway rb25det rb20det (black top)

rb20 has "RB20" imprinted on timing belt cover

!

^ This is all the stuff you'll have to wire up. Not sure if you'll have to replace any parts, but i think non-abs models have some slightly different parts for rear subframe.

im going to remove mine tomorrow. damn that thing is annoying. do you loose the headlight chime and "you've left your keys in the ignition" chime if you unplug it?

it doesn't need 100k service to pass roadworthy, but timing belt is recommended, and you may as well, if you're doing the waterpump also. 100k service is probably recommended anyway, the main bit is the timing belt, but all the fluids etc. add up. Just make sure they use good oil, coz most mecahnics will put the no-name brand everyday 20w60 oil in it or some crap. That's pretty good, how old is the car? im suprised none of the boots/bushes for suspension/steering needed doing.

uhh, u may as well get the brake place to change the pads, coz they're gonna have to take the pads out to get the discs off to machine them anyway. you could just take the discs off yourself, and get a mate to drive you to a brake place. All you need to do is take the pads out, unbolt the caliper (2 bolts behind caliper), and the brake disc just pulls forward (rears can be hard to come off coz of drum break in centre, there are 2 holes inbetween the studs that you can screw bolts in to push them off). I think there is a tutorial on it somewhere.

yeah, im doing this tomorrow. Does it take 2 litres? I need to know how much oil to buy, i can either get 2 x 1 litre bottles or 1 x 4 litre bottles. Don't want to get not enough

it's probably got a hicas lock kit, however the tomei plug-in thing should stop the warning light from coming on. Alot of people also get the warning light come on when they have an aftermarket steering wheel. leave it as-is, most people prefer hicas turned off coz it makes the car's handling a lot more predictable (but also less idiot proof)

i now have rego!!!! sweeeeet.....

it depends on the mods. i've beaten r33's before, and i've been beaten by r33's... go figure......

http://www.garage-13.com/difftech.html is a good link for info on diffs. (not to mention, good retailer for buying stuff) to tell if your 2way diff is fudged, do a few burnouts. you'll be able to tell if it's single spinning.

yeah, the oh performance r34 blew the radiator when he hit the wall. bugga.... some good talent out there the other day, it was a shame the blue 180 decided to do a burnout through the pits....