MerlinTheHapyPig

or, u can just take out the hicas light bulb on the dash... don't the hicas lock kits come with a bar and a couple of metal washers you have to put somewhere on the steering rack? I always thought it wasn't as simple as unplugging a few things.

yeah, i'll be driving, provided i can get my car set up by then...

RB stands for Race Brakes, which is the company that makes them www.racebrakes.com.au

oh yeah, in the post of mine you quoted, i was quoting 26GTS, he said that i was asking him to explain that.

yes i do support heel-toe, and always have. I don't double clutch though. hmm, i can't be bothered reading back through my posts.... but i don't remember mentioning what i personally preferred at all. 26GTS seems hung up on the idea that if you can't double-declutch like he can - (coz he's a much better driver then all of us - and heaps cooler too) - then you don't deserve to drive a car....

yeah, euro cars have the reverse on the left. it's a pain in the ass. It's also wierd, with indicators on wrong side, coz when you come to a corner, you use left hand for indicators, then have to shift down with same hand, just annoying. they are definantly defectable, a friend has a nismo sticker nearby, im not sure where u get them, but they r definantly avaliable

wouldn't bother taking it to a workshop for just fluid changes, unless you need to do the timing belt or something, you shoudln't have much trouble changing stuff yourself. do the engine oil, filter, coolant, gearbox oil. Don't do the plugs unless they need changing (take them out and inspect them, check gaps etc.). Inspect all the belts, etc. Alot of people change everything, so consider also going fuel filter, power steering fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid. most fresh imports come with decent plugs. If one or two need replacing, you probably wanna go all of 'em, just to make sure they r the same type. One car my friend bought (SR20DET), we pulled out an NKG R, NKG Iridium, HKS and some other yum-cha brand or something - so if they are different brands, change them all. As far as oil, i use Pennzoil 10w40 semi-synth, and standard filter. Gearbox, definantly use redline on skyline boxes. If it's an ex-drift, your diff may need an overhaul, just make sure it's not worn out (take a few corners at 60km/hr and you'll find out) Has it clocked 100,000kms? if so, i would get the timing belt replaced.

i've forgotten what we were arguing about! all i disagreed with was the comment that heel-toe "has no benifit and is a waste of time" lol

well, power/weight ratio is slightly higher for a 33 - plus the 33 has heaps better off-boost torque, but with the money you save buying a 32, you can buy some pretty good mods.

i think you're missing my point. Revving with clutch in, doesn't do anything to gearbox speed, this is obvious, as it's not conencted to engine with clutch in - that's not the point of heel-toe. It changes the ENGINE speed - the point of heel-toe is to change the match the ENGINE with the GEARBOX input shaft, and let the syncros in the gearbox do the rest. the point of double-clutching is to match the GEARBOX output shaft with the GEARBOX input shaft (which at the same time matches the gearbox & engine speeds) You are saying, that heel-toe without double clutching does nothing. I am saying you're wrong. As far as motorsport goes, in V8 supercars, they usually flat shift In drift, you heel-toe, *without* double clutching (ie as i explained above) when decelerating. Im not trying to start an argument, but explain *why* the heel-toe technique "has no benifit and is a waste of time"? Looking at Drift Bible for example, Keiichi Tsuchiya always heel-toe's on down shifts, and doesn't double-de-clutch. I figuire, if that's how the experts drive, then that's how im gonna drive.

lol u use the clutch? flat-shifting all the way! :headspin:

cool, grr just heard back from my mechanic that car wont be ready today, so looks like i'll need to get inspection done next week anyway

wrong, the point, is to match the engine revs with the gearbox revs - (double-clutch is to match gearbox input & output shaft speeds also within gearbox) try driving at 4000rpm in 4th, then change to 3rd without heeltoe / doubledeclutching. Most likely your wheels will lock up - compression lock if you go : clutch-in, shift to 3rd, rev to 6500rpm (or whatever) then release clutch - when gearbox & flywheel will be travelling at roughly the same speed, so you don't get comp lock. If you do it without heel toe, the engine speed will have dropped to like 3000rpm or so, but when you put it in second, gearbox input shaft will speed up to 6,500rpm coz of 3rd gear (syncros make it do this without any major probs), so when you release clutch, the gearbox will slow down, and engine speeds up - causing comp lock. You don't have to double-de-clutch to make it do the above.

keep in mind, the 7.5w rating is for japan's climate, which is cooler, that's why you're best going for 10w

check coil packs, that's usually the culprit, water has gotten under the coil pack cover.

hey, what are people's experiences with VicRoads inspection? I have the roadworthy and everything, but there are a couple of obvious small things that my mechanic has missed - i'm just wondering if i should fix them anyway When they look at the car at vicroads, do they go over it with a fine tooth comb? or do they just check the vin number etc?

so... heel toe - matches engine speed with speed of gearbox double-de-clutch - matches engine speed wiht gearbox, and input&output shafts of gearbox i don't see the point of double-de-clutching instead of just normal heel-toe. I can heel-toe at high speeds, and it's smooth-as - if you're getting this problem i'd say your syncros are screwed, or you're not revving it enough. matching input and output shafts of gearbox, is the job of the syncros. the only reason i can see to double clutch is to save wear on your syncros. If you want to see heeltoe being done properly at high speeds, watch "drift bible" or something.

another way, si to buy a socket that is slightly smaller (Eg bolt is 12mm from memory, get an 11mm socket). And bash it on with a hammer. Remember to spray heaps of WD40 on the bolt before you do it. always use a socket if you can of correct size to remove bolts, stops you from rounding them.

from what i've heard about ARC side mounts, they are very good. nothing beats a good front mount though.

my car's running Penzoil 10w40, runs alright. (i think it's called GT performance or some sh1t) If you don't wanna spend $60 on mobile1, it's a good alternative, for around $35 (from repco). If the car starts to burn oil, try for a higher hot weight oil (eg 10w50). Choose a cold weight between 5-15 and you should be fine, don't go higher than 15 for turbos.

maybe just give 'em a ring and ask them what to do. I was told not to send my approval through till 01 November 04 (coz nov 1989 build), and i called htem up mid October to ask a question, and they just said "yeah send the approval through now, we're a bit behind, and that'll speed things up for you"

definantly suggest sending it by fax. Then ring up the office 10 minutes later, and get them to check to see if it's come through. They will then give you a reference number, so you can quote it the next time you call them. Just call them a week later to check on progress (quoting number), makes sure things are ticking along ok, also makes sure the paperwork doesn't get lost. my photo id didn't come through, and they sent me a fax, so i called them up and emailed a copy to them, import approval arrived 3 days later in the mail.

my rb20det has a 3.5inch exhaust (89mm). general rule with turbos & exhausts, the bigger the better, coz u don't need backpressure. most aftermarket ones i've seen tend to range from 3.0 inch to 4.0 inch.

http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/

Type M R32 2 door manual rb20det gts-t Model: KRCR32RGFSLMEC Sept 1989 Production Date Colour AH3