MerlinTheHapyPig

it shouldn't be running that lean from factory, even with your mods. my money would be on -remapped ecu some other possibilities -fuel pump -fuel filter -fuel pressure regulator -injectors ^ I would think problems with fuel system would cause it to lean out at higher load, i don't think they would explain it leaning out across the board. if you want the cheapest solution possible, grab one of the old-school Apexi AFC's, one knob - rich or lean...

from memory.... spec for turbo rb's should be all above 128psi no more than 17psi variance so your motor is within spec.. barely! it sounds like it's getting to the stage where i would do a 'simple' rebuild, but if you can't do it yourself and have to pay someone to do it, wait until it get's really bad and do a full rebuild. if it were me and i were running that much power i'd consider taking it apart, inspecting the pistons and bores (especially number 2) and bearings, give it a quick hone and some new rings and head gasket - (ie stuff you can do with engine in the car). If you need to pay someone to do that, may as well do everything while you're there though.

there us a hicas solenoid is in the engine bay on drivers side. you remove the hicas solenoid, and there will be 2 lines leading to back of engine bay (these go to the hicas rack), and 2 other lines. the 2 *other* lines get looped (one of them goes under the engine, the other goes to loop in front of a/c condensor - join them together with some transmission cooler line)

i wouldn't use 1.1mm on turbo cars. 0.7-0.8 is about right. if you have issues with 0.8 gaps on 10psi, then there is a problem and it's not the spark plugs...

^ what he said. Not all rechips have their revlimiter raised. R32 rev limit is 7,500/7,800, my car has a stock ecu and i usually can rev to 8,000rpm without limiter appearing to kick in, so it's sometimes hard to tell speed limiter is always removed. So see if you can go faster than 180 (on a private road of course...)

read the thread on setting your idle correctly. there is also a screw on the ecu yo uneed to adjust usually. You could also have a vacuum leak, vac leak caused my car to idle at around 1,200 or so

word... for future reference, to get the other side off, notice in the bottom picture you posted there is a gold screw thingo. Unscrew this with a shifter and remove it, then the part of the rack that the tie rod screws into will be visable. You should be able to slip a 17mm oe spanner onto it to stop it turning when you undo the other tie rod

maybe it's a rear toe problem?

check for error codes first.....

find out the stud pattern, offset and width. That will determine if they will fit your skyline

possibly, ford falcon have 5x114.3 stud pattern so they would also be worth a try... but why?? if you want shit rims to do burnouts on, r32 gtst or r33 gtst/s14 rims can be had for $50 a pair or so from most import wreckers....

if the tyre wears evenly, the balance won't change. but this is rarely the case... balancing and alignment are separate things. It shouldn't cost you much to take the car back and get the front wheels balanced, should only be $10 or so per wheel. or just go back and argue with them. Say, cmon, you got a full wheel alignment done and 2 new tyres farkin balance the fronts! it will take them 10 minutes...

i usually use a long bar and find a point to lever it. I don't bother unbolting the stabiliser bar.

lol, i know what you mean. My passenger side arm rest handle is broken thanks to this.... i've driven in the wet before in cars with 2-ways, and also in cars with fully locked. The fully locked feels safer because there is no sudden engagement, but they are both safe enough if you drive the car sensibly.

i don't know, but all the new-ish kaaz 1.5 and 2-way diffs i've seen shudder like a bitch, i would avoid kaaz diff's if you are after something less-harsh. Cusco are ment to be good, but i've never driven one. It's almost impossible to avoid some degree of harsh engagement with mech diffs, especially when brand new...

why don't you ask the place who did the test?

there is supposidly a loop of wire (i think around the ignition module or coilpack loom) which you use to clip the inductive pickup to when checking timing. I can't say exactly where, but that's what it says in the manual (never had the need to check my timing lol)

i've had the same walbro for 2 years almost (GSS-341), and it's never missed a beat, motor is still going after a lot of abuse. Direct re-wire is a good idea, because the pumps only run at 12v with stock electrics (re-wire will run 13.8-14 volts and it will actually flow what they claim). A new fuel pump is always a good thing to get on a 10-15 year old car, think of it as a safety mod. Walbro pumps attracted a poor reputation because there were alot of fake pumps being sold, so be careful of any which are significantly cheaper than the usual price ~$170-180 for gss-341. I think someone was selling fake ones on ebay for around $140-150 for a while.

most tiens are rock solid, there was someone who posted in this section a few days ago who has tried the Australian version (Tien Super Street) and was very happy with the results for comfort.

well, that's why i asked how much power he was running. As you said... They are strong enough for 99.9999999% of skyline drivers.

the clutch may have siezed. check that you can move the fan freely back and forth with the engine off.

RS would probably be the go. Cusco recommend it if it's street driven (less harsh clutch engagement etc.) I would suggest 1.5-way for overall useability/goodness. If you plan on going anywhere near a drift track, 1-way's are near useless.

how much power are you running? r200 diff's and r32 driveshafts/tailshafts have a reputation for handling as much power as you can throw at it.... 9 inch conversions are very uncommon because the stock diff is strong enough...

it has adjustable damper.... and given this fact, i could almost guarantee you will have adjustable height also (since damper adjustment is usually an 'extra' on top of adjustable height coilovers).

18x10 +19... no way that's legal. but 30-50mm widebody should be enough to get them to fit in the guards. or maybe gtr guards with flare... it's the front that's your main problem. You could fit rear with the guards flared. But 10inch on the front is a big ask.