MerlinTheHapyPig

owned.... you might have to resort to taking off the tie rod ends

yeah, 19mm sounds right, though that will be the least of your troubles. cracking the tie rod bolts will be your biggest problem, because the shaft in the rack can rotate freely. So you need to get 2 large shifting spanners, one on each of the tie rod bolts, then you'll get one side off. Then unscrew the cap on the end of the rack so that you have a decent amount of room to get a 17mm OE spanner on that end, and then you can get the other side off. Biggest pain in the ass ever!! (remove or loosen the tie rods before you unbolt the rack)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=127804

tie rods on just jap, haven't used them before. But you're right they do claim they are adjustable. It looks as though the 'adjustment' does the same thing as the stock 'adjustment' that you get with the tie rods themselves... seems to me like just a selling feature. They would adjust the toe, which you get with stock tie rods/ends anyway. I would be sceptical about trusting the justjap ones anyway. The rose joints look cheap as crap from the pictures on their website. Surely they will be poorer quality than stock-standard version. anyway. The big round things are probably your castor rod bushes. The tie rod ends are part of the steering, and will move when you turn the steering wheel. They connect to the steering rack through the tie rod...

^ work euroline kh (my car hehe) ^ work vs-kf ^ volk gt-c face2 ^ work vs-ss just a few favourites.... I'm particularly fond of the work vs-ss

hang on..... are you talking about tie rod ends?? or castor rod bushes? firstly. Tie rod ends connect to the tie rods, which connect to the steering rack. Tie rod & tie rod ends control the steering. There is no such thing as adjustable tie rod ends The tie rods themselves are adjustable from factory Castor rods are the rods going from the control arm and are bolted onto a bracket on the body near the front of the car. If the tie rod ends are f**ked you can get stock replacement, or go aftermarket rod ends If the castor rod bushes are f**ked, you can change the bush itself with an offset bush (allowing adjustment) or you can replace the whole castor rod with an adjustable castor rod, which replaces the bush with a solid bearing, this version is adjustable via the length of the rod and allows for better adjustment than the bush version, but they are also harsher on ride, and the bearings can wear out quicker. also, inside of the tyres wearing can be attributed to a few things. Most common is excessive camber due to lowering the car too much. So this could be a another problem you have. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130348 ^read SydneyKid's post in this thread for more info...

Locked diff's are almost exactly the same as a new/tight 2-way... They do affect turn-in so you will understeer a bit, but i've driven on twisties with a locked diff and haven't had to resort to going sideways around every corner. Same thing happens with a tight 2-way... Tight turns aren't a problem either... no worse than a 2-way people have this misconception that as soon as you go around a corner with a locker at any speed above snail pace, it's just going to automatically come out... This only happens if you drive too fast. Wet weather isn't a problem in my opinion..... no worse than a 2-way...... the advantage of a 2-way, is that they will last longer, and they will un-lock when you clutch-in. Some of the worn 2-ways i've seen are less agressive, and some allow you to adjust the preload, but the brand new kaaz and cusco mech diff's i've seen have been almost exactly the same as a locker... value for money wise, welding a diff has to be the best cheapo drift mod ever!!

sounds like case closed to me.......

good plan, alot of aussie drifters tend to overlook suspension mods and go straight for power. A 100rwkw car can drift well with a good suspension setup!! but a 400kw car with stock suspension and diff will suck balls!! I haven't re-read the whole thread but i might be repeating things here. Most important thing is a Diff, not technically suspension, but make sure you have an aftermarket LSD, or get your diff welded (cheap option, works just as well as a 2-way). The stock viscous will not hold up for drift and you will learn slower suspension wise...... I recommend grab a set of jap coilovers, plenty for sale these days with everyone going for the suspension group buy, and for the price ~$500-$1000 for a good set of second hand you can't go past it for purely drift. They are a little hard on the road, but most people just put up with it. Also grab some adjustable castor rods Then get a wheel alignment, run as much castor (+8-9degrees) as you can

what d1 drivers are using is all well and good. But. Toe on the front works like this -Toe in = better high speed stability -Toe out = better turn in / cornering Beginners will benefit from running a bit of toe out, but once you start drifting at higher speeds (ie. Top of 3rd gear) you will be wanting some toe in. I would suggest you experiment with it a bit, see what feels better and go from there. I run -1.5deg camber, 2mm toe out

that's good... must be above 127psi and no more than 14psi variance between cylinders.... also... "compression ratio" is different to "cylinder compression"

was playing around with a brand new dyno dynamics unit which a friend just installed the other day at his workshop. I'm still trying to get my head around how to use the damn thing. I'd be interested in joining this discussion once i figure out what's actually going on. It's not the most user-friendly setup, and i've gotten the hang of it now, but it was quite baffling (given they give you no instruction manual and i had misplaced the instructional dvd). The computer software also doesn't have much in the way of help either. Are the ramp rates set based on what shotout mode you are in (e.g 4cyl, 4F, 6F etc)?. I've also noticed the hand controller has "RAMP UP" and "RAMP DOWN", is this to set them manually? I was under the impression that the weather station (air temp, humidity etc.) settings were all that really affected the correction values... anyway, we don't have the weather station in yet. I did notice my car read 130kw when it usually pulls 150-160 on most dyno's. So it could be due to the weather station correction being wrong

so, you're suggesting you bolt the starter to the bell housing plate???? unless you make up some sort of bracket, you really need the gearbox to mount the starter motor onto.

anything with a green sticker is a direct fit.......

uh, you'll need a gearbox to bolt the starter onto

i use the grex one, i like them because they have a nice weight to them and you get a more 'firmer' throw. Though i must admit with shift knobs, you're really splitting hairs. Get what looks good! http://www.garage-13.com/ sell them for $65 which is pretty good price.

i had trouble finding an exhaust shop who had 3.5inch pipe. i'm running 3.5 and needed a section repaired/replaced. went to 3 places before i found someone who could do it.

I'd consider upgrading 190rwkw is pushing it with the stock pump, grab a bosch 040, it's good security against fuel pump failure / leaning out in the future, which can blow engines. stock pump will be pushing 10-15 years most likely with 150-200% the amount of power it was designed to handle!

repco supercheap autobarn take the hoses in and see if the can match them up. Otherwise, best option is nissan (or second hand)

according to the pic i posted. This includes the backing plates, the anti-squeel plates, a couple of funny clip things and some paste or grease of some description (you'll see there are lines coming from the Part Code highlighted in red on the diagram) Pads are a separate number - part code 41000K includes the pads and the wire clip. Part Code 41092 is for the spring. I think they are separate, ask the nissan dealer (price should be a good indication. I'd expect the shims to cost aound $30 or so, the pads would be at least $60 per side. I had to buy that damn spring (41092) and it was around $10, anyway, see how you go.

lol, easy job arbess i've lost track of how many castor rods i've changed if you have the nut removed, then i find a phillips head screw driver on the center of the bolt and a mallet does the job, you can also try moving the control arm around a bit while you do it.

try nissan dealer. The front brake hardware kit for r33 rb25det is... Part Code: 41080K Part Number: 41080-21U25 "HARDWARE KIT - FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD" my copy of fast crashes when i try and view r33 rear brake

2 degree difference is too much imo 0.5 deg difference is fairly standard, most wheel alignment places i've been to recommended that. Get it fixed up, and make sure the car drives straight. If it does, then you don't have anything to worry about, even if one wheel seems more forward than the other, it could just be the guards are fitted differently or something (perhaps the car has had previous accident repair)

your castor settings are out. Get a wheel alignment

well, he's wrong If you bypass it properly, you can remove the lines all together, and it also doesn't wreck your power steering pump, and it also retains the power steering cooler (that's another thing you won't get if you just block up the lines rather than looping them)