MerlinTheHapyPig

just a normal bolt. You'll need 2 x 17mm wrenches so you can hold the other end while you turn one end. All i can suggest is use some wd-40 and a breaker bar

<sigh> take one of the bolts to a place that sells bolts and get them to match it up Though i have warned you, if you block them off you'll blow the rear stage of your power steering pump.

www.garage-13.com can get the bushes. From memory their whiteline stuff is cheaper than in the group buy. or. www.whiteline.com.au or www.nolethane.com.au

if you block the lines, it will kill the rear stage of your power steering pump. Do not do this. The correct method to loop the lines in the engine bay is here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=122140

I've noticed a lot of threads about HICAS problems recently and I thought it might pay to create a thread to summarise some of the common problems. What is HICAS? HICAS is the Nissan version of all-wheel steering. It makes the car understeer more by changing the angle of the rear wheels slightly when cornering. It is only active at higher speeds (above 80km/hr). Effectively it's designed to make the car more wally-proof which is ok for the average driver, but a hinderance when driven on the track. It also makes the car less predictable. The angle of the rear wheels is controlled by a rear steering rack, which you can see bolted to the subframe to the rear of the differential. On R33's this is electric, R32's and also S13's use a hydraulic system. Removing HICAS (Installing a Lock Bar) It's generally accepted that HICAS is a bad thing, especially for those of you who drive their cars to the limits. Disabling hicas is fairly straight forward, I've included some threads that might be useful. HICAS is removed by replacing the rear steering rack with a lock bar. In the case of R32's which use a hydraulic unit you also have to re-route the powersteering lines to bypass the HICAS solenoid. GTRgeoff on the forum sells HICAS lock bars, I strongly recommend contacting him if you're after one. R32 Removing HICAS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=122140 R33 Removing HICAS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=58778 Common HICAS Problems The most common reasons for the HICAS light on the dash lighting up are: -Low Power Steering Fluid Level -Fitted an aftermarket steering wheel (which doesn't allow for the Steering Angle Sensor) These are the first things you should check when diagnosing a HICAS related problem. Contrary to some of the advise i've seen given on the forum, the HICAS light on the dash only comes on when there is a problem. HICAS Diagnostic Mode HICAS has a built in diagnostic mode, when diagnostic mode is entered the HICAS light will flash a code and allow you to determine what sensor is faulty: HICAS Diagnostics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22193 Alot of people seem to have trouble getting into diagnostic mode, and I can't really offer a solution here. Usually what most people do rather than properly diagnosing the problem is to just get rid of HICAS all together. In fact unless the problem is simple (such as low power steering fluid) then this is probably the best solution! You can also see a Nissan dealer service department and I believe they can use Consult to read any HICAS problems from the ECU. Unfortunantly I haven't seen the capability included in any of the free-to-public consult interface software. I might try writing my own software to do this if I have some free time. If anyone has anything to add, or if I've made any mistakes, or has a problem with their hicas they can't diagnose with the above info, please post here!

how do you know it's overheating? The "normal" position on the stock temp gauge will sometimes change when you install a thermostat that opens at a different temperature. Perhaps get an aftermarket water temp gauge to see where you're actually at more accurately Anyway, if it's definantly overheating and you've ruled out the thermostat, then it's probably the water pump.

1. Hicas can act unpredictably even when everything is working fine! so if you have a light coming on, then one of the sensors or something isn't working (or low powersteering fluid), which could make things worse 2. Never Buy a lock bar if you intend to take your car on the track.

^ also make sure you clutch-in when pulling handbrake.....

do a search for +heavy +steering +hicas or just +heavy +steering (select all sections, and 'any date') there are quite a few threads on this problem, I haven't found a definitive answer for your problem from the few threads i've looked at. however... some people seem to think if your battery or alternator is on it's way, it can cause the hicas solenoids and cause this problem due to low voltage some people seem to think it could be a problem with the vehicle speed input on the hicas Anyway... Before you start changing batteries and the like, here is how to get hicas into diagnostic mode http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm if you can't get it into diagnostic mode, then i'm 99% sure it will be the steering angle sensor (or perhaps a fault with the computer itself)

here is how to get hicas into diagnostic mode http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm if you can't get it into diagnostic mode, then i'm 99% sure it will be the steering angle sensor (or perhaps a fault with the computer itself)

um... not sure. But if you have an aftermarket steering wheel without the steering angle sensor, then that could explain why you can't enter diagnostic mode. It would also explain the light coming on, but not the heavy steering.

firstly, i'd suggest installing a lock bar and get rid of hicas all together. I'd also be checking the tie rod ends for wear / play, and your bushes on the rear, and check the toe. I know you mentioned it probably isn't mechanical, but you should check these things regularly anyway. Have a look in the Tech /tutorials section on how to get the hicas into diagnostic mode. If you still can't find the problem, just f**k off the hicas!

r32 08/89 -> 08/91 32010-05U10 08/91 -> 02/93 32010-05U11 02/93 -> 32010-12U00 32010-12U60 is listed as alternative part number for 32010-05U10 my version of fast crashes when you try and view illustration for r33 gtr, hope this helps.

gatorade bottle does the job, but I think i'll make up a catch can myself, gives me some more practice with the welder! I have a spare engine in the garage, i'm gonna start prepping it & do a nice rebuild. So i'll make sure I do the oil control mods while i'm building it.

$150??? i doubt it speak to athid.... i think he's in tassie later this month, you might catch him

i've noticed recently when removing some intake piping, that i'm getting a decent amount of blowby. compression test was fine (all around 155psi) i think it's just high rpm usage which is causing this (motor sees 7,000-8,000 rpm quite regularly when i'm drifting). I've read sydneykid's oil control thread. Next time I get the engine out i'll be doing these mods but that won't be for a while. Are there any suggestions on easy ways to stop this for the time being? I really should have a catch can, i think i'll make one up when i get a chance, but for now the garden hose + gatorade bottle should do the trick. Not too urgent since the car is grounded with an electrical problem so I don't think it'll be seeing the track for a while.

ah, didn't read your post properly. To be honest, my advise is, do yourself a favour and install a hicas lock bar. Much better!

yes, you should use gasket glue on anything that seals coolant i believe.

it's your aftermarket steering wheel which will be causing the problem. The hicas uses steering angle sensor in stock steering wheel, most boss kits don't allow for this. zyphon, lock mode???? what are you talking about? there is no such thing as lock mode. The light only comes on when there is a problem.

harness is good option, i've been using stock gts-t seat for ages, it's fine t04gtr, why do you run 5-7mm in on rear?? toe on rear should be as neutral as possible.

first of all..... have you checked your power steering fluid level?

most common causes of hicas light coming on, tend to be -low power steering fluid -fitted aftermarket steering wheel

thanks for that sk, the faq on nolethane's website mentions I'll try and get some prices and do a comparison

hmmm, at a guess, offset sounds a bit high I have 17x9's on the front of my gtst, and they are alright, but they have a lower offset, i'll try and find out exactly what when i get home from work if i have a chance. anything more than 8inch wide on stock gtst front guards is often a challenge, there are only a couple of offsets that work

check all the bolts are tight you can remove the intake pipe to the turbo, and check for excessive shaft play (or any signs that the turbine has been contacting with the housing) it could also be just an exhaust gasket leak or cooler piping. check this also.