MerlinTheHapyPig

only 6 months to go! may as well get the degree over and done with! (comp sci, monash clayton) i've been working casual as a network admin for a couple of small offices, very similar to the sort of stuff they mentioned in the add, so sadly they aren't advertising at the end of this year, otherwise i'd be applying!

damn..... that job would be perfect for me! Pity i still have 6 months left of uni Fairly simple setup by the sounds of things. (yeah, $50-60k sounds right)

I guess it would depend on your circumstances. If you were intending on doing a build (or rb25/26/30 conversion) at some stage in the near future, now is the time to do it! Buying second hand motors (even from wreckers with warranty) is a bit of a mixed bag. Most wreckers can do a compression test, but that's about it and comp tests won't reveal everything, and if you do get a dud and have to claim warranty, i doubt you'll be able to get them to pay for labour to swap the motor again. Also, any fundamental problems such as tuning etc. need to be rectified regardless of stock/built

agreed! should always check tune when buying a skyline.. if it were me, i'd just slap another rb20 in (well i have a spare one in the garage), but if you can't do the mechanical work yourself, you're better off with a more permanent long-term option so you don't have to pay for labour to swap another motor if you get a dud. So perhaps consider a proper rebuild, or rb25

most of the "perceived" differences in 98 octane fuels are usually just in your head. I have a friend who works for shell, who says all the 98 octane fuel is exactly the same, (actually not technically true, i think the united boost uses ethanol in their fuel) though, i do have a couple of friends who call optimax "opti-ping".... i generally use either optimax or bp ultimate, and i don't notice any difference at all

you can buy bushes from whiteline, sydney kid has some threads in the "group buy" section your list has alot of stuff on it, $1,700 fitted isnt a bad price for all you've mentioned. I would avoid second hand shocks. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

to check wheel bearing, jack up that side of the car, and try moving the bottom of the wheel toward you and away, to feel for play. If you get play, it's a sign the wheel bearing needs replacing. -check that the plate behind the brake rotor isn't rubbing, this is quite common and will make a metallic scraping sound -maybe take to a brake place and check the run-out on the rotors etc. -check for any thing that looks like it might be rubbing on something (loose cable, loose inner guard lining etc.)

how low is your car? if you raise it a bit, it will have less negative camber...

you should look for same things as 2-door do a compression test if you can, but you have to remove some of the intake piping etc. to get to the spark plugs 4-doors are pimp! the one you were looking at sounds alright, with aftermarket suspension, check that the shocks aren't leaking. Exhaust is a bonus, 4-door exhausts are slightly different than 2dr, so they might be hard to find.

maybe get diff mounts looked at, a friends fc does that we think it's the diff mount, but they have a different style of mount than skylines so i really don't know definantly sounds diff related though

depends how much boost you run it on day-to-day. I'd tune it for 10psi and 15-18 psi, and run it daily on low boost. some friends have been drifting rb20's around the 180-190kw mark and been blowing motors from time to time (usually due to crappy tunes though)

another thing to condsider, some people don't like 6 speed's because the gears are shorter and u have to shift more... It might be a neat idea, but reliability problems with the s15 box aside, do you actually need it? is it worth the expense?

firstly, as far as i'm aware sam was wanting to look into remaps for rotaries, so who knows might be something around the corner you don't really want to push rb20's over the 200kw mark, it's certainly possible to get more power out of the stock motor however it usually means using a laggier turbo, And as any rb20 driver knows, they lack low-end torque as it is! (and you'll start to go through motors... i have a spare rb20det in the garage waiting to slap in once i blow up my current engine..... ) if you're aiming for above 200kw, it's probably best to use an rb25det (or rb26) as a starting point. They are much more drivable, and can handle more power. (even comparing sr20det to rb20det, the rb really lacks bottom end torque and drivability) If you do go rb25det, i don't think you can remap them easily, so budget for a powerfc or some other aftermarket ecu. (if you are going to go for a MAP based ECU later down the track with rb25det, buying a q45 afm now could be a waste of money)

you need to borrow an rb20 afm and test it. I wouldn't try tuning the car if you can't locate the problem first because it will affect the tune. Sounds like an Afm related problem to me...

rb25det afms (green sticker) are identical to rb20det. They will be slightly newer than rb20det, but they are exactly the same (same part number and everything). Upgrades for rb20det, 2 choices Z32 or Q45, both will require a remap. If you don't want to remap, stick with the green sticker rb20/rb25 afm

i assume you have a timing light with an inductive pickup that clips around sparkplug lead? i don't think you can use them for electric ignition...

probably tie rod, get it looked at!

rb20det is very similar to z32 ecu have a read here for some of the basics. http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html www.ztechz.net

no problems! advanced search search for "hicas" filter by member name "gtrgeoff" date "any date" hehe the power of search!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=58778

don't think they are longer, but they are adjustable anyway, at their shortest setting, longer = means less castor (which is bad)

most ecu's will allow you to change the load and rpm points (stock ecu can do this) Here is the equivalent of a "map trace" on a powerfc for my car (i think this was third gear but may have been second). This is with the stock ecu, standard tune, standard boost, fairly stock r32 gtst http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...o/tim_dyno1.jpg <- dyno with boost anyway, i've found, most of the work is done in load point 11-12 and it tends to stay in the same load point for the rpm range that matters (2,800-6,400 rpm it's in the same load band). In fact, it's interesting that the stock ecu has the load points more spaced out higher in the "load" axis. Anyway, what i've interpreted from these results are that under high-load conditions the "load axis" is less important than rpm (because it's remains in the same column anyway, even using an AFM)

i can't download that pic for some reason, longer castor rod = less castor, which is probably not what you want Most brands will allow for roughly the same level of adjustment, maybe it just looks longer in the different pics keep in mind also. S13/r32/z32 are all the same, but awd r32's have different rods.

I know that, my point is, who cares? revs are still increasing, so your ecu is still progressing through cells on the map. Sure, there are more areas on the map where you can "theoretically" use at max boost with an afm based computer, but the real question is, do you actually need them? I haven't seen anyone on this forum post any hard data that demonstrates this is a problem. And the fact that many aftermarket ECU's use MAP sensors, obviously demonstrate that the designers of the ECU don't see this as a problem!!

sam "dr drift" does remaps give him a call, best person in vic i know of to do remaps Dr Drift Shp 5/ 9 Alick Rd Brooklyn 3012 0425 818 755