wardie

Just go and buy some fuel hose from repco/autopro/supercheap and cut the old hose off and replace it with the new hose. I have done this with all my injectors as well as adding hose clamps at the injector end. No more leaks. Wardie

I've had the hole in the back of the water pump twice now. Got it welded the first time and replaced it with one from an L20 the second time.

Denis can you PM me your phone number please. Can't find my charger to get it out of my mobile. Wardie

G'Day Dennis, Sorry about not getting back to you, I actually forgot I had posted this. Both phones are off for now, we got slammed by the ATO due to some unpaid taxes left over from my wife's hair salon (NEVER trust a business partner!!) so things have been a bit tight. I'll try to give you a call from work in the next day or two. Wardie

Thanks MAG86, I may take you up on that. Wardie

G'day, My '83 MR30 Hatch has just failed rego due to rust in the front lower guards behind the wheel arches. I suspect that these guards will be rare as due to them rusting in this area but does any one know of a source. The only local wrecker that has R30 parts doesn't have a good rhs guard which is my worst. I'm on the NSW Central Coast but any suggestions will help. Thanks Wardie

Sorry Guys. I forgot to say its a '83 R30 Hatch. and it has a pretty slack steering box The hassle with getting the disks machined this weekend is none of the places round here can do on car machining so I'll have to pull the hubs/disks off the car. The reason for the post is I was hoping that I would be able to get through next week by cleaning and fitting the 2nd hand ones while I source new replacements or arrange to get mine machined if they are in tolerance (300K on them). The calls I made today leads me to believe that getting them done on Sat won't happen. Wardie

Had to do some seriously heavy braking on the freeway a couple of days ago and now whenever I touch the brakes over 80 I get a serious shake through the steering. Under 80 I can feel the car modulating as it brakes. As I pull up to a stop I have to ease up on the brakes so it doesn't pull up on the tight spot. There is no real pulsing through the brake pedal but I have had the steering checked for correct alignment and have swapped the wheels front to back with no difference. One mech says it's a warped disk, another reckons it's the slack in the steering box causing the shake. I lean towards the disk. I can get a disk(s) of a wreck on Sat but they are rusted. Can I hit them with the wire brush to get the worst off then expect the pads to do the rest or will I have to get them machined? Need to have the car for next week as the boss has pulled my leave and I now have to work. Thanks Wardie

Stagefumer11 Do you have instructions on how to adjust the steering box? Mine has about 6 inches of play in the wheel. Gets a bit scary on windy days. Wardie

I got switches out of a R31 that were the same or close (couldn't tell from what was left of mine) as they wouldn't pass it for a blue slip unless I could open the windows from the back seats. Wardie

Thanks for the offer nixcars. As I said in the SMS I am on a fairly tight budget as I am between jobs right now so I'm going to have to put the project on hold and keep looking. I do have 2 x long boxes, 3 x flywheels, 1 x new clutch/pressure plate kit, pedal box, shifter & shifter rubber boot. I did have a re-con master cyl but have lent that to my BiL to use on his 720 ute. What I need to get is 1 x short box, matching tail shaft front section, spigot bush, slave cyl and hose. I am happy to swap my two long boxes for a working short box if anyone is interested. Wardie

Thanks for that Matty T. I measured the auto box in mine and it's the same length as the long 5 speed and that seems that it would put the shift around the same place as the auto shift which is about right. As the auto and long manual boxes are the same length I was hoping I would be able to use the auto tail shaft. Well this was my original plan. So now my plan is on hold and my next question is - has anyone successfully fitted the long box into a MR30 or do I have to start looking for a stumpy box and matching tail shaft? Wardie

Can anyone confirm what type of 5 speed manual came with the MR30. Was it the short FS5W71B or the long one? Reason I ask is that I have two long boxes at home and on the weekend noticed that according to my Nissan manual the long box is for the L20 in the MR30 and there is supposed to be a short version (tail end of housing) for the L24. I am yet to see a short box with stick shift at the wreckers. The only one I have seen is out of a 720 ute and it has column shift (RS5W71B). Thanks Wardie

Hold off on this!!! I may have given some crap info. My manual pedal box was not complete it seems. I saw one on the weekend that was complete and I was missing the pedal height adjuster bolts (brake and clutch). I have quickly checked my car and I don't seem to have the bracket for the clutch height adjuster bolt. I will check it better later this week when I can get the seat out and have a better look. Sorry Wardie

Glad to have helped someone else. Wardie

I was going to swap out the Auto pedal box with a Manual pedal box this weekend on my MR30 hatch, so had the Manual pedal box in pieces to repaint it due to some surface rust. While I had it apart I thought that I would also check how the Auto box had the pedals fitted. What I found out is that the only difference in the two was the shaft that the pedals hung from. So instead of pulling the dash out to fit the pedal box over the weekend, I fitted the Manual shaft and pedals in about 30 min. All I did was: 1 remove the under dash cover, 2 remove clip and pin from brake pedal push rod 3 undo the 15mm nut off the RH end of the shaft, 4 slide the shaft out the LHS of the pedal box, 5 remove auto brake pedal being careful not to break the stop light switch. 6 slide manual shaft into pedal box from LHS 7 insert brake pedal spring into pedal box slot 8 insert manual brake pedal making sure that it goes into the M/Cyl U bracket as well as inside spring. Be careful of stop light switch 9 slide shaft through brake pedal (grease shaft 1st) and through RHS of pedal box 10 Fit 15mm nut and spring washer loosely 11 hook brake pedal return spring onto brake pedal 12 tighten 15mm nut slowly whilst checking alignment of diamond shaped flange on LHS of shaft. Flange should fit almost horizontal into recess in pedal box. 13 once flange correctly located tighten 15mm nut fully 14 refit the pin and clip to brake pedal push rod 15 slide clutch pedal return spring onto LHS of shaft and locate end in slot in pedal box 16 fit clutch pedal to shaft (grease shaft 1st) 17 hook clutch return spring onto clutch pedal 18 fit circlip onto end of shaft 19 fit pin and clip to clutch pedal push rod. 20 refit under dash cover I hope that this helps someone Wardie

Back on the road!!! 2nd hand pump from a R30 sedan $70 but I managed to get thrown in for nix 2 x idler pulleys for the A/C and Power steering belts, 1 x washer pump and best of all a complete set of original skyline wheel centre covers in good condition (quoted at $50 last time I was there). I'm happy again! Wardie

Thanks Nick - the wreckers will have to do right now. Wardie

Thanks for the offer skybt1 but I got to get her on the road by Wed so I'll be off to the wreckers early tomorrow. So I should look for a VL Commie pump as well. Are they cheaper new? Anything that is Nissan and Skyline seems to attract a premium price from everyone. Wardie

Got some quotes for a standard fuel pump today, they vary from $280 up to $395. The one Repco quoted me on was a High Output unit. I'm off to the wreckers tomorrow to see what I can get. Any one know if any other Nissan/Datsun models have the same unit or compatible? 66yostagea - when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking in but the pump does not run Wardie

Now it's my turn to be off the road!!!! Yesterday just as I was on the way to shoot a wedding the R30 just stops. It looks like the Dang F#%^ing fuel pump sh!t itself, right on one of the busiest roundabouts on the Central Coast. No bastard would help push her off the road but plenty had advice what to do with her. Luckily the Bride lived nearby and sent the limo to rescue me whilst the POS spent the night on the median strip. I've got her home today but it's pissing with rain so I have not been able to get under her to check it out. Called Repco to see what a new pump would cost but the only one they have listed is a "high pressure" replacement for $700+ (WTF). Does any one know if the pump is serviceable or a sealed unit? Am I going to struggle to get a new one or should I head to the wreckers ASAP? Thanks Wardie

Dude you back on the road again? Wardie

Nice seein' you again D Cool car but seriously pricey. Wardie

Hey Drew, If you have had your head tested and they say it's OK then I would suspect the back of the water pump in the timing cover. When I had my issues all the "L" series guys that I spoke to after I had my head skimmed and I replaced the head gasket only to have the engine fill with coolant as soon as it warmed up assured me that the Lxx blocks were almost bullet proof and "never" cracked. When I checked my timing cover I couldn't see anything wrong, there was a bit of erosion up to wards the top of the rear but I didn't see holes, but the guy who tested my head again for me insisted on checking the timing cover by shining a bright torch from the back and there it was two small pinholes. I had it welded up and away I went but later it happened again but in a bigger way as the erosion was weakened by the welding. I ended up getting a 2nd hand timing cover that looked like new. I cheated and replaced the cover "carefully" without having to remove the head. I just took out the bolts that attached to the timing cover top and bottom as well as the ones around the side. Tapped it loose with a nylon hammer and then gently put the new one in top first with the sump loose to give me a little room. Good Luck Wardie

coupe72001 From my experience fault finding the water in the oil issue that I had - number one piston should be at TDC on the compression stroke. - YES - the rotor button should be pointing at number one on the distributor cap - YES (the flat piece on dizzy drive shaft should be at about 10min to 11 if you looked at a clock) Can look right but if the car does not run properly you may be 1 tooth off with the dizzy drive shaft. - the crank pulley timing mark should be vertical (or lined up with something on the block maybe?) - Should be lined up with the 0 mark on the timing gauge attached to the block - the timing-chain sprocket slips onto a dowel on the camshaft. That dowel should be at 12 o'clock. - Not quite. On the timing chain is two marks. One lines up with the mark on the crank sprocket and the other lines up with the #1 mark on the cam sprocket. Adjust the cam so the dowel slips into the sprocket hole. Sometimes you will have to gently persuade the sprocket onto the dowel by slowly tightening the bolt. Make sure that the cam lobes for #1 are not pushing down on the valves. - something else I dont know about..?Once it fires it will run crappily until you get the timing set right 10degree BTDC at 900 RPM Good Luck Wardie