BensDR30

I was led to believe that the FJ20ET FS5W71B had wider gears than the FJ20E version of the same box (or L-series etc. etc.) Suggest that you get into the habit of stopping the car, engaging 1st, then engaging reverse - that way the 1st synchro stops all the internals 'gently'. Sometimes things don't line up and it won't go into reverse. In which case, going for another forward gear prior to reverse will do the trick. If you want to upgrade the box, then get an FS5W71C from an R32 GTSt. Some custom parts are required, but you'll end up with a more modern system with dual-synchros.

The OEM fuel pump controller is under the parcel shelf - basic operation is low voltage at ilde, and full voltage at all other throttle openings. Bypass it if you have an aftermarket ECU.

A couple of additional points to note; Even with an LSD, you'll only need to jack up one wheel to rotate the tailshaft - use some muscles and you'll overcome the clutch packs in the diff Don't forget to mark all flanges as to not throw out any factory balancing On the C34 at least, the front flange (the bit held on by the 27mm nut) has a locating dimple in it that aligns with the locking groove on the shaft Use a pin punch to free up the locking tab on the nut The 27mm nut comes undone really easily with an impact gun

Let me clarify the above statement - disregard the first suggestion, and follow the second... The AFM on the R30 is useless, and has a sawtooth resistance curve. Not only that, it's got a rectangular mounting face which is a PITA. If you must use an AFM, retro fit an SR or RB one (of course this would be if you fit an ECU with an AFM input). Seriously, don't bother with the factory EFI if you're running a turbo conversion, it's just not worth the hassle.

Good to see some more photo's of the car. Don't throw out any of the interior - those parts are hard to come by these days.

I ran a small MAC on my Haltech setup for about 6 years - worked fine. I'm just using an adjustable wastegate actuator rod on y DR now because it's only running around 9psi, but I might build another IEBC and see how responsive I can make the old TO3... You can just see it (circled) in this old photo when it was fitted to my Z.

or not - a P90 head with flat-top pistons is the best designed L6 NA combo. The 240Z head runs smaller valves than the later stuff, and is guaranteed to have been bastardised by experts several times over since the early '70's... I've run a standard N42/N42 L28 with aftermarket EFI in an MR30 and it turned just shy of 70rwkW (automatic). That engine's last effort in my Z on the dyno was 144rwkW, but 12psi will do that...

Black R33 GTS25t (M-spec), manual, HICAS, black interior, September 1993 build. Much like the one in your avatar!

9008 = August 1990

I did notice the build plate colour, but wasn't sure if out was just the usual 'silver because it's been cleaned too much' or really painted a different colour. Nice work Kristian.

The URL for those images is "/.../2011 NUR/Matthew-5.jpg" - is it a NUR Spec car??? If so, were they re-numbered by the factory when they were rebuild from their first incarnation as a 'normal' GT-R?

Snap, I have just bought a set from Adam HERE for my S1 and it's all good.

That's a damn shame Brendan, hopefully everything pans out ok.

+1 on the JJR SS bellmouth dump. I've got a custom 3.5" system (with a JJR cat) and it made a huge difference above 4000rpm.

And the interior is all wrong (it looks like it's got 3 front seats, and flat back seats when viewed through the back window). Then there's the road surface shading around the rear wheel area. Pity, we need a new wagon that is GT-R bred