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BensDR30

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Everything posted by BensDR30

  1. Well, if my purchase can be added to that and paypal doesn't rip everyone off then add me to it, otherwise the deal will just have to be done as is.
  2. That V2 display looks like a pretty good thing. I've personally got a copy of NDS - which is very handy for diagnostics & dyno tuning (via the 'dashboard' function). It also has another tacho/speedo page with speed-alert which would be excellent if you had a carputer fitted & it was active all the time. The V2 display would be perfect for the trip-meter function if nothing else. PLMS have also been playing around with Consult/Nissan ECU's for many years, so they too have a very reputable product lineup. I reckon I might get a V2 display & permanently mount it in the car. ***edit*** Just bought one...
  3. 50 trim? If so, that exactly what I need for my Z - something that will flow between 20-40lbs/min at a pressure ratio of 2.0 - 2.5 and provide good response.
  4. Agree - interesting - yes. But something I could get right into - no. Be prepared for lots of custom fabrication on the Cedric in order to bring it into the 21st (dare I say 20th?) century.
  5. Awww shite, I've only just twigged to what you were asking Ryan... It's bad enough that Bobby sold his car, but now Nigel's gone & got it broken!
  6. Weezy, please see this post for the rules: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2681523 Specifically that you must list a price. I'm letting you know this before the mods do for your own sake.
  7. I got a quote from Maltech in March last year for replacement S1 lines - $495 inc GST & postage. Couldn't justify it at the time, but now I've bought a set for the Z the Stagea has moved further up the list.
  8. The OEM BB T3 turbo on the RB25DET spins up mighty fast from factory. The bush-bearing 1st-gen VG30ET T3 I have on my L28 Z (high-flowed, but still with factory shaft & ceramic wheel) spins up even quicker; 0.8-bar at 2000rpm is not out of the question. The 0.63 A/R (turbine) TO3 on ye-olde FJ20ET is a bit of a slug compared to those two, but after I fit an IEBC I think I'll need to actually map more of the tune for +'ve pressure... A BB unit is 'nice to have', but the 'old' bush bearing units will still last the distance if provided with clean air & oil. A good boost controller like the IEBC can help offset a slightly large A/R or turbine wheel size by keeping the wastegate closed until it's really needed - thus maximising the gas flow across the turbine. There's probably only a couple of hundred rpm between the BB & bush-bearing cores - but on a street car, does that really matter?
  9. You need to speak to someone who has the later version of FAST for advice on that one - 2.2GB sounds a bit small. Nope - it was entered in AJD though.
  10. Like most of us, you probably have a version that pre-dates the '35. However there are some who have passed the tests and been granted the next level
  11. Nice work! I hope that you have considered the issue that the old Cedrics didn't come standard with any brakes...
  12. Remove the kick-panel from the passenger side footwell (a couple of clips & a thumb-screw) and post up a picture of the label on the computer. Getting the correct sub-variant of the ECU is critical to correct operation.
  13. Note that you can feed the following web page your Aus VIN & RAWS approval Plate # to get the particulars on the complaince process for your car: http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubVehSearch.asp
  14. There are some wreckers in Qld that have S2's in stock - so if you need to try a different ECU, then it shouldn't be outrageously difficult. BUT I'd certainly consider a bit of a search here for further information on the problem, and see if there isn't another, cheaper answer.
  15. Probably can't make this one, but will try to make an appearance at the start point & take some photo's.
  16. That one's been listed before. It would be a damn nice thing if it were; a) confirmed as compliable and b) cheaper, cause I have no money...
  17. What problems are you actually experiencing? I can only think of one other forum member who's had a crook ECU in an S2.
  18. I posted a response to this VIN at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4646986 In a nutshell, it was a non-turbo 25GT 4-door automatic from the factory.
  19. ER34 040546: Build date August 2000, 25GT, 4-door, HICAS, Auto, 'Athlete Silver' paint, grey interior, 15" wheels (not sure about spec). That's all I can give you without knowing Japanese... I can't help you with the engine number, except to say if it's a non turbo then it's a good start. If it's listed on the build-plate then it's all good. Please note that the correct thread to use is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...tml&st=1320
  20. Not necessarily anything, but you'll probably get more interest if people can see what's on offer. Colour & condition of the external parts would be good - I might be interested in a 'rust free' KR4 front door if that's what you've got.
  21. I assume you're after the factory 'filled' mounts? If so, I suggest you upgrade to RB mounts - all that's required is an adapter plate. I changed mine over with a scissor jack & removal of the strut brace only.
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