BensDR30

If you're prepared to pay full price, then they can all be had new - I wouldn't like to price the lights though... Importmonster would be the place to look for second-hand parts.

Does it come with a free Brocky Energy Polarizer??? Are you serious? Some bugger has to be milking your tank!

I joined a Z-car mailling list in 1995 which only wound up last year - I still have over 100,000 e-mails from all that time which have almost everything you could possibly know about all the Z models. Yup, it's a blessing all right! The only thing I dislike about forums is that I don't have a copy of all the information, so if the forum disappears, it's all gone...

Well that's a start... One thing we didn't test when we had NDS hooked up was the AAC function. I was playing around on our car on the weekend & remembered that you can set the AAC and check for the appropriate RPM change (I think it ran at about 600rpm with the AAC set to zero, and about 1600rpm with it set to 100). If you're heading on another surfing trip, feel free to drop in & we can give it a test.

$13k is criminal for a well sorted S1 such as yours. Sheeit, they just don't hold any value do they? You might get some more bites from the leadfoot crowd if you also post a power-output. But my recommendation is; don't sell it - keep it until it wears out!

Yup, around the $10k-mark is the going rate for an S1 these days. There's a heap of invaluable information in this thread, but the biggest thing to remember would be to bear in mind the cars age. S1's are up to 13 years old now - mine is.

That'll be me who's getting those rear bars made up by Car Torque. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4621964 For all the details. FWIW, as supplied, Nismo Bilsteins look to have circlip grooves at the stock height, and lower already.

Excuse my ignorance, but hasn't the cube been on the SEVS list for quite some time now? It would be the RAWS stage that everyone's working on at present...

Lose the Aussie VIN & quote the chassis # from the Japanese Build Plate.

Aus-spec vehicles aren't in FAST. But, I suggest you speak to someone here or on CSA to find out if that VIN is a known GTS-spec vehicle.

Which photo's would be the 195/50/15's? and Where might you be located?

Lose the stock dump for something (anything?) else, and fit a decent cat. turbine noise is a bit louder, but best estimates put those 2 parts fitted to my car alone at being worth ~5awkW (with a stock cat-back). Otherwise, stop talking about how good the Nistune is - us S1 owners get all upset about it...

Nissan 'Special Blend' FTW (Not fully synthetic, but the price is right) I used to use Castrol Formula R in my Z, can't even remember what's in the Skyline (could be Special Blend in there too...). With all the extra expenses that life thorws at you, I just couldn't justify $60+ per change in the Z when it was a daily-driver. I shall be re-evaluating my choice for that particular car once I get my rather expensive new L28ET installed... Mobil 1 also got a bit of use - but again, the Special Blend even changed more frequently, was a more economical buy. Great globs of crap are certainly not unheard of coming out of JDM engines. And I certainly noticed the engine & oil temp decrease slightly when I did start using the Formula R in the old L-series (and no real increase in rattle-factor with the thinner oil) Genuine Nissan oil filters, and thermostatically-controlled oil coolers are also a good thing.

All valid points - I just thought I'd look it up for curiosity sake, and FAST showed the same numbers for NA & turbo (which I thought was wierd). I wonder if it's a worthwhile upgrade ($$-wise). There would have to be plenty of R33 stock cams lying around from all those now using PonCams...

Nice effort, The turbo upgrade will certainly make a difference. FWIW FAST shows all non-NEO RB25's as having the same cams - yes, even the DE vs DET have the same number.

+1 on the probably repairable team. My sister's GTiR ended up with $13k worth of damage when rear-ended by an EF/EL falcon at significant speed. If the payout > repair then it probably won't be a write-off - but it will never feel the same...

If you're after quality Nissan parts-interpretation, speak to the Spare Parts Manager @ Grand Nissan - Terry Russell. I've been dealing with Terry for 15 years for all my genuine parts needs for every Nissan I've ever owned.

That's fine, but here's a suggestion: Amend the website... It still says 7th June. Cheers,

Hi Dennis, Do you mean series 1 DR instrument cluster? There were a few different types, depending on the power-plant in use. Can you elaborate? I might have my old MR30 tail-lights stashed in the shed somewhere, I'll have a look

Got mine in the post today (I'll do the ebay feedback later this evening). A couple of tricks for young players apply; - The provided socket doesn't match the S1 wiring, simply fitting the OEM socket solves that one. - The locking tab slots in the bumper are different sizes top/bottom - a little trimming is required to make the replacements fit. - Fitting some packing material to mimic OEM might be beneficial around the lens, I'm going to see how much crap gets caught up and take it form there. Otherwise, for a Chinese special, they seem pretty good, the curvature is spot on and most importantly, they flash orange!

I'm not sure where the adjustable settings fit when compared to the fixed bar. I guess measuring the location of the adjustment holes and comparing them to the fixed bar would be the only real way to tell - Anyone with a fixed (OEM/aftermarket) bar & adjustable one want to compare the end-section lengths in relation to the holes? Ryan, what size is your front bar; 22 or 24mm? and What position do you have your in? I'm mindful of going too big not only for understeer/oversteer reasons, but on the early S30 Z chassis' the mounts could actually tear out of the body with really stiff bars fitted... I'm hoping that the late model stuff has a few extra welds around the threaded sections of the bodywork, but it really sux when you tear a mounting out of the floor! (Thankfully I haven't had that problem on my car!) Also, I took the C34 for a drive tonight (had a need for 2 cars on the road at once) and you know, I couldn't really tell that there was no rear bar fitted... Either I didn't turn corners hard enough, or it's exceptionally piss-poor from factory!

The story I got on that front was that unless the profile was one that was derived from the manufacturers own R&D (i.e. not from a customer) they considered the bar to be a one-off and wouldn't catalogue it. (I suppose because there is a chance that your bar isn't really what you claim it is...therefore who has the liability for errors?)

I've read all the suspension threads, watched the old Whiteline group buy 'happen' and finally decided that upgrading the rear bar on my S1 was on the agenda... So I picked up a non-adjustable Whiteline bar (BNR11X), mindful of the fact that the rear cradle in the non-260RS models is a little wider than the GT-R/260RS. Guess what? It didn't fit - by a mile. There was no way that this bar would mate up with the Stagea mounting points. Even an adjustable bar would have the end links on an unacceptable angle, and the main span was just too short. So I returned it this morning and got talking with the staff at the store (Car Torque in Kent Town, Adelaide) about the situation. They called Whiteline and got some measurements out of them (which were confirmed as not suitable), we also discussed some of the relationships, ownerships & politics now in play between Whiteline (Redmans) and Selbys. Note that Selbys spun off as an independant company from Whiteline when Redmans (Noltec) took over a couple of years back (post the original group-buy). This has significantly changed the landscape in regards to availability and in some cases the QA of the parts that are now on offer. Now Selbys web site does list a bar to suit the C34, but it's the same part as the 33GTST & 33GTR - which we all know are not an ideal fit, and in some cases, not a fit at all. So here's what's happening; Car Torque are sending my factory rear bar to Selbys for a direct copy (ETA ~10 days). They are getting a few made in both adjustable & non-adjustable for stock here in Adelaide (and keeping a template for the future). So, if you want to get a bar that fits, 100% - no stuffing around, then contact Car Torque ( sales@cartorque.biz ) and get involved. I don't know how much the bars will be yet, but will post when I do. But they did tell me that they get a significant number of issues such as this (Toyota Aristo for example) that it now warrants them keeping an inventory of 'custom' bars that aren't officially listed by the manufacturer, but are in demand. This isn't a group buy, nor a FS, but a community service to those who need something better than the OEM 'tent pole' that pretends to be a rear sway bar on the 1st generation Stagea - and don't want to have problems installing it.

As per Tangles' post: ATS (Adelaide Turbo Services)

(What he said)