BensDR30

I've driven an Axis PNM35 RWD and was very impressed with the power delivery. And the Nismo exhaust sounded just great above 5500rpm I love my turbo's, but I'd have a 3.5L Stag in the blink of an eye. There is plenty of room for 2 child seats an a pram in the Stag - it's done on a daily basis in this household!

You've seen them in my sig, but here they are again. I've actually managed to do some work on the Z recently - the 300ZXT rear end is almost installed!

So convert it to auto... Problem solved!

There is no AWD S1 dash to suit a manual. Hence, all Autech's should have a regular RSF instrument cluster for S1.

Putting my name against a set to suit S2 RB25DET when/if more stock comes in (as per my pm).

Possibly a failing/cracked coil - is there any oil or staining present around it? NIssanman would only know about buggered R30 ignitions because I own(ed) all the R30's in the family...

My Stag had a vibration under heavy acceleration - and a notchy shaft was the cause. My price for a new front shaft was a bit less than $1200, but not much. It had to get fixed somehow because I couldn't drive the car RWD only for any length of time - too much power & not enough grip. Cost was around the $350 mark for new unis and balancing.

FWIW, I've had a Jaycar IEBC on my stag for a few years now. Once it's mapped, you don't touch it. It brings the boost in much earlier than a bleed.

UPDATE New universal joints in the front prop shaft and a wheel balance have sorted the issue.

It doesn't. Get the right bar from Car Torque - I had them custom made based on my S1 RSFV factory bar. And FWIW; V!=auto V=option pack with 16" wheels, body kit, and some extra electric goodies.

But 32/33 models are as common as muck.

Greased spline - no leakage. FWIW $240 to have the uni's replaced.

Well the bolts were effing tight and I'll end up replacing all the nuts - 2 of them got burred. But, the sucker is out, and the uni's _are_ knackered. I'll be dropping the shaft into Adelaide Tailshaft Services ASAP to get the uni's replaced. A new shaft is $1100 (special price) from Nissan... I test drove the car last night, and the vibration under hard throttle seems to be fixed (but the traction is certainly reduced. For those that have wondered - the ATTESA-ETS is used LOTS, even in everyday driving). However, my wife has indicated that a vibration at ~100km/h is still there. Its nature is consistent of wheel balance issue (rotation movement in the steering wheel), so I'll be getting that seen to this weekend (which is almost due anyway), but will check the CV's for play between now & then.

I'll get my thin-wall spanners onto it this weekend - that sucker is coming out for inspection if it likes it or not!

Fair enough. I dove my car for about 3 hours in the Adelaide Hills today (with the family, but still semi-brisk - we were pressed for time!) and I don't recall it giving me any grief. I attempted to remove transfer case/diff shaft later today, but why the hell does Nissan insist on making the flanges just that little too small to fit a ring spanner or socket onto (my Z is the same!). The fasteners were just too tight for a successful hasty removal, so I abandoned that line of work (for the time being) and just bled the ATTESA. No obvious signs of worn/torn or otherwise stuffed suspension parts. Next step will be a wheel balance and rotation.

The last info I got was that they were moving into the 'deposit' phase, but I never received anything requiring any action after that. http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=...uctdetails.html shows that there's sufficient interest to get it done

The 'getting the DR30 ready for the Nationals last month', 'getting ready for the birth of our second child last month' and 'getting the Z ready for Nationals in Easter 2011' rock! There are no codes in the ECU (I have an ECUTalk), but I will check the fluid situation. The issue was present with other tyres and wheels in different positions, so I'm inclined to think it's a bit 'deeper' in the driveline.

P90 with dished pistons are L28ET, P90 with flat-top pistons are L28E. Not very common here in Aus (but I have 2 of them ). The P90 L28E was matched to the F54 block - which was the 'last hurrah' of the L-series sixes.

If the trigger disc is in the distributor, then the balancer has zero to do with the timing issue. I think we need more information!

It's funny that this topic comes up now - one of the things I plan on doing this weekend is getting under my Stag and having a look-see, as it too gets the shudders on under hard acceleration - but only sometimes. I've tried driving with the synchroniser active (and I know how this function works) - no change. It tends to be a 'once your going' issue, I don't remember it happening from 0km/h. The steering column 'shakes', but it's not like the rotational shaking that an unbalanced wheel will cause. The ATTESA is working on my car, the front wheels will chatter if the Synchroniser is on at low speed and high steering angles - as it should, it also has gobs of grip when you give it heaps of lateral load and throttle. That's not to say that the problem isn't somehow related to the AWD system. There has also been a slight vibration at 100-110km/h which I would normally attribute to wheel balance - but it can come & go while at a steady state speed. I'm convinced the issue is in the front end, and I know it's not worn shocks. I might pull the front shaft today and see if the issues are present in RWD-only.

Don't shave the head unless you're going to run cam tower shims - the geometry goes all pear shaped. Fit hi-comp pistons instead.

Oh that's so very harsh!

And automatic too! I wonder how it would go with a T3 strapped to the side of it?

Most Datsuns of that era had Exedy clutches. And cut your spring rate by 50% at least - if you want the car to survive in one piece. If you want an R180 LSD, then go for a Subaru conversion. I think you can get Quaife centres for the R180, but they aren't cheap at the best of times.