BensDR30

There is one aspect of the situation that's being overlooked; When putting the R31 bits on, you don't just use the calliper - you also fit the thicker disc (R30 - 250mm X 18mm, R31 - 250mm X 22mm) So, between the slightly thicker disc and the slightly better calliper, the brakes are certainly better than OEM R30 - been there, done that. (and parts are cheaper too). The other brake upgrade that I can recommend for Series 1 R30's its the use of a 15/16" 720 4x4 master cylinder (OEM is 7/8") - just don't forget to remove the residual pressure valve if you have a disc-brake rear end.

R200 longnose - 10 or 12mm ring gear bolts. Only relevant if you're swapping internals around. Longnose R200's were first seen in the the 260Z, and last seen in the R31 (and equivalent vintage alternative models). 3.90:1 LSD's were fitted to DR30's, 4.375:1 LSD's were fitted to HR31's and I think that 4.11:1 LSD's were fitted to Leopards (or something like that!) Don't hold your breath on finding one these days and consider that lots of work has been happening (esp. in the US) regarding the use of ~2006 WRX VLSD/CLSD R180 centres in Nissan applications. The R180 isn't weak, and is lighter than the 200. I would be passively looking for one, but I think that there is plenty of other work needed on the C110 before it's on the 'must have' list (yes my 240Z and DR30 have R200 LSD's, so call me a hypocrite if you must!)

S2 snobs

Replace all studs, nuts and washers while you have it apart. Otherwise the ones that survived the disassembly will snap when you put it back together...

It sounds like the connection orientation isn't a critical factor (FWIW, all the coolers I've mounted have both connections at the top). Andrew - you need a gearbox rebuild, especially if you plan on significantly increasing the torque output of your car.

Hey D, You've stated some 100% accurate facts about the cooling system - but I would treat the trans cooler differently and here's why: The engine cooling system (generally) has a bleeding point in the radiator (or nearby) The engine cooling system is pressurised. But a trans oil cooler like this has neither of these. So if you fill from the top you may find that air gets trapped in the cooler, reducing the efficiency. My 2c worth. Smegul, You can safely bypass the bottom-tank cooler - but you may find that overdrive lockup does not occur as soon from cold.

These what you're after? I found a pair stashed in the shed, never used, but one of the stand-offs has snapped while in storage.

Fill from the bottom. Disconnect the lines and crank the car (briefly!) that will reveal which line is which from a flow-perspective.

Nice work - cheaper than a diagnostic visit to the dealer...

Lol Chris, how cheap? But seriously folks... I'm running a pretty mild setup on the street - fresh S-Tune shocks/springs and a 22mm solid rear bar. It certainly doesn't handle 'on rails' but it's significantly better than stock.

I have one surplus door mirror glass at home, but I can't remember which side it's from (I fitted JDM convex glass to both sides of my Stag)

Damn I missed the ball on this one - sorry to hear about the situation Rodders. I bet the missues wasn't too happy when it was stolen..

Your image shows the window channel/seal (in reasonable condition), the remnants of the 'mirror seal' and the plastic section. I'm assuming the pieces in question are the 'mirror seal' that goes over the mirror mount plus the plastic clip in triangle (the one that keeps falling off on my passenger side...). Mine too fell apart when I got the car in '02 (I finally found the import paperwork tonight!)

Or expect to spend about $800 to get yours rebuilt. I highly recommend upgrading to a standard VL compressor cover for a bit of extra 'oomph' up top.

And early HR is different to late HR/DR (fender vs. door mirrors) I bought 2 sets of what I thought were the right ones, only to find out that they were for 'fender' HR's... I finally go the right ones via Omote/Yahoo! a couple of years ago.

That's an old 'Creations' kit; TO4, 32mm Garrett Wastegate and it looks to have a Stromberg rather than SU (mine had a 2" Jag SU on it when I bought the same sort of kit in '97). Laggy as hell on an L24, let me tell you...

cazz, I'll take a cap - pm me on the next step...

R31 brakes bolt on the ®MR30 struts - you may have to swap the struts left/right as the caliper may foul on the steering ball joint. The braking is better than the standard setup, but it's still no sports-car. The Aus-spec R31 brakes do not fit the DR30 struts, as they have 100mm bolt spacing (as opposed to the 89.9mm for the Aus-spec stuff). Apart from that the DR30/Z31 brakes are bigger than the Aus-spec R31 brakes (274mm vs. 258mm from memory...)

My old 200000km old L24E MR30 auto managed 62kW at the wheels, so expect something between 50-70 depending on how tired she is.

Even with my hectic family life at the time (we had a baby son at 0849 Monday morning), I was able to participate in the nationals except for getting some track time (I have a list of piss-poor excuses as to why I didn't enter to race, some more piss-poor than others!). It was a great weekend, catching up with fellow (D/H/M/RM) R30 owners (you ACT guys certainly don't hold back on the mods once you get started!) was great, and watching all the cars get used in anger at Malalla was fantastic. There were a few organisational hiccups (there always are) that could certainly be rectified for the 2012 Nationals, but I'l discuss them with Cazz in private. Rest assured they are nothing disastrous. The C210 and Prince owners have some making up to do, and hopefully there's a couple of C10's that can also make an appearance in 2 years time. Pity about the GIO car blowing a diff (among the other disasters that the owner had to endure just to get to Adelaide...), their determination was admirable. I've already started thinking about the logistical side of entering my car in 2 years time, plus a list of 'things to address' so I can have a blast around Wakefield Park, and not have to trailer a broken car the 1500km home afterwards Dennis has made some valid points about the awards - there did seem to be a bit of flawed logic and improvisation in the judging/scoring process (Don't get me wrong, my car wasn't quite up there for an award, so I'm not dirty on missing out!) but Carolyn's response about having to have the trophies supplied with such a leadtime goes a bit of a way to explaining the issue. Looking forward to 2012...

My DR is entered, but my wife is booked in for her C-section on the 13th, so it could be an interesting weekend..

I was hoping to come along in the DR but I had to finish painting at home... Look forward to the next one - I might even have the Stag registered!

So the bonnet arrived ok? I meant to ask earlier, but have been busy... (gimme a trader comment if you don't mind)

I received an e-mail a couple of months back stating that they'd reached the required number of people interested and requesting confirming that I would buy once published. I filled in the details, and I think that I got a response talking about the translation lead-time. It's probably in the 'hurry-up-and-wait' phase.

As long as you have a lock, it can be re-cylindered to match your other locks (or a specific key). I bought a new barrel for my DR30, and had all the other locks redone to match the new key. I did something similar to my Z - had a spare new key from a DR30 door lock, so I re-keyed all the Z locks to suit it. Instant new locks.