BensDR30

Silver, factory BBS alloys, rear spoiler, no sunroof(s), 100% stock. Only got it 2 weeks ago. I'll be trying to only drive it during the week & take out my DR30 or my Z on the weekends!

I believe that mine is the only one on the road here in Adelaide....

I know people that are making that kind of power on a 45mm throttle body.... Suck it & see! As for compatibility - Check the wolf manual. Wolf should be able to provide a compatible sensor too.

L20AET dizzy is identical to the L28ET dizzy. Get a new rotor/cap from Nissan. You can fit the VG30 chopper wheel & pickup (with some slight mods) to get a true 6+1+360 sensor (suited to aftermarket ECUs). If things don't go so well, then try to get hold of a L28ET dizzy from the US.I'm going to be using this setup in my 240Z (which currently has a custom hall-effect system fitted).

The reason that all the dash lights come up is the bulb-check sequence. There is a relay hooked up to the alternator & battery that is only energised when the alternator isn't charging. Hence when your alternator dies, not only do you get the charge light illuminated - all the other lamps come up too (except the high beam & cat converter temp from memory). The original almp in question is the low coolant overflow warning lamp. Chances are that if yours doesn't work the bulb is gone - I replaced about 4 when I got my DR to get them all working. The bulb-check sequence reveals all!

Grab a TPS from Haltech & mount it up. They are a true potentiometer.

Sounds like the clutch is cooked too. BUT If you can rev the car in gear & have the speedo move, then the diff is COMPLETELY stuffed.

rsx84, it simply sounds like the clutches have worn to the point of the diff becoming open. It doesn't take much actual wear for this to happen. The 2 inner clutch plates in my DR30 R20LSD were down 0.003" on each side - total wear 0.012" and that was enough for the diff to become completely open. A pair of new inner clutch plates & possibly just the reversal of the outer clutch plates (they have friction material on both sides, but only 1 side is in use on the non-competition diffs) will probably get you back in the 40ft/lbs breakaway area. I had a couple of shims put in my diff, which measured 90ft/lbs after the rebuild. It chatters the inside wheel on slippery surfaces at low speeds, but is perfectly civil once you get going. I expect that the breakaway is a little less now (20,000km later). This diff is destined to be re-fitted to my 240Z I have a 4.375:1 R200 LSD that measures 65ft/lbs after reversing the outer clutches only - this one will get fitted to my DR30 & should improve acceleration by quite a bit. Another 3.90:1 is on the way from Japan - dunno what condition it's in. But I don't care - they can always be rebuilt with new parts for only a few hundred. Try using Castrol LSX-90 or a fully synthetic LSD oil. And try to change it every 15-20,000km.

I did own all of my cars, including the $40K+ I've spent on my Z. But at this point I don't really own any of my Stagea. Ask me again in 18 months.... (I'm still spending $$$ on the Z - bought a Motec a few weeks back)

Don't think so. I haven't talked 'DR30' with anyone for a little while now! I'm glad I'm not the only one who has to have holes drilled in his car in the name of policy.... *EDIT* My brain must be failing... Adam, if you are referring to collaring someone in the carpark adjacent your work & having a brief chat, then it was me! My dinner was going to go cold, so I couldn't hang around.

Ahhh, unfortunately not.

Paid for my manuals today - $450 for a RB25 workshop manual, a C34 owners manual & 2 C34 workshop manuals. Hopefully they arrive before I visit the importer at the end of the month (In Melbourne).

Have you ever seen an exploded diagram of the S20? It's one of the most complicated engines out there & is not at all suited to mass-production or low-maintenance. The LY SOHC or OS-Giken DOHC would have been a much better candidate, but from a marketing perspective a new engine is always better than an old one, re-worked (a'la Holden 4/6).

Hey there Ghostrider, how goes the Newman & RMR? The L24 will rev harder, but the L28 will pull stronger. My L28ET 240Z will make 15psi at 2000rpm. The stock NA compression is influencing that but it pulls like a truck. It is not too hard to produce 400HP+ out of a mildly prepped L6. My under-construction TT F54/P90 engine is aiming for 450HP, but SKY-084 here in SA has over 180kW at the wheels with an LPG-only L'27' setup (including locked dizzy).

Dat's me!!! Rebuilt engine, box, diff, VL T3 compressor cover, 3" system, Adjustable KYB's KMAC bars, fresh paint, trim to be done soon.... 16" Watanabe's on the way too! No power out of corners? - get your diff done & check your timing. I can drift in 2nd gear quite easily if I so desire....

I've got workshop manuals coming over from Japan soon.... I'll be getting parts translated so should be able to help out. But not sure when they're getting here :-/

FWIW, the Iron-mask DR30 was released early in '83. The RS (X) Turbo was realeased in the 2nd 1/2 of '83 & the Turbo-C (intercooled) was Jan '84 onwards. The last DR30's were fitted with factory CDI. The DR30 RS-X Turbo was the only flagship model Skyline to be ever fitted with a 4-cylinder. The C210 GT-EX turbo was the first mass-produced Japanese Turbocharged vehicle. The C10 was the only model to be offered as a 4-door GT-R (KGC10), and then offered as a 2-door GT-R (KPGC10). The KPGC110 GT-R was only for sold over a period of around 6-9 months in '73 due to the oil crisis. Bear in mind that all this info is for Japanese domestic models only

*BUMP* My Stagea has the same 'click' noise when loading up the drivetrain, only audible with the windows down. Just had the RR side caliper & disc off, no obvious signs there, but the pads are still suspected. All frame & link mounts are secure, I'll climb under the car tonight & see what I can find with a second person helping.

Over the years I've hears of hundreds of horror stories regarding defects/roadworthiness inspections. Everything from 'why doesn't your 1980 Gemini have a Carbon Canister' (not originally fitted) to 'you can fit engine X in car Y but not Z'. My own experience with the inspection centre - which took place on the 29th December 2003 (2 days before my 'application to modify' paperwork expired!) went surprisingly well.... The car: 1973 240Z Modifications: Full restoration (stripped & rebuilt over 5 years) L28ET Engine (T3 Turbo with T4 compressor) Haltech management Modified auto gearbox Solid mounted diff Custom disc brakes F &R (including bay-mounted adjustable proportioning valve) AiResearch FMIC Pod filter 2.5" SS exhaust system - 1 muffler only. Retrimmed interior etc etc.... The original paperwork was a stuffup: 1. 'L28 Turbo Naturally Aspirated Engine' (???) 2. 'Carbon Canister Required' (Hello!!! ADR26 people, NOT ADR27...) 3. 'Original wheel required for track measurement' Fair enuf, but didn't need it on the day. I had to explain the contradiction in terms of #1, the outright error in #2 & they soon worked out #3 was a waste of time when it came down to it. The inspection: Piece of cake! Them: "Why do you have aftermarket management in the car?" Me: "Reliability & emissions of OEM L28ET computer would be worse than aftermarket" Them: "Ok" Them: "Nice brake setup - is that a simple bolt on?" Me: "Yes" Them: "Wow" We adjusted the bias on the brake tester - he pushed the pedal I turned the prop valve.... Them: "You have a (check-valved) bleed to atmosphere on the auto trans modulator line?" Me: "Yes, to prevent blowing up of the modulator valve under boost" Them: "Ok" Them: "Boost controlled by ECU?" Me: "Yes" Them: "Ok" Problem points: Them: "Can you still get the recliner covers? there's some sharp metal that might damage the seatbelts" Me: "Yes, got them at home" (which I did - only just picked them up from the dealer!). Them: "That's fine" And during the test drive: Him: "I used to own a Datsun 1600, went like heck for a stocker!" Me: "My dad ownds one - bought it new" (conversation continues....) Him: "Gee, it handles like a cart & I love the induction noise!" Me: "It's been a long time coming" (5 years). Oh, the exhaust was 92dB @ 3500rpm (limit - 96). The idle emmisions test has to be performed elsewhere (Ultra-Tune did it for me), but it failed....CO% was too high. So I plugged in the laptop & leaned the idle out just a bit. Fixed... Sometimes things can go well at Regency. I have no idea how my DR30 passed before I bought it - it had a leaky gearbox, bald tyres & was filthy. I recently received a letter regarding the fitment of an SA compliance plate to the DR (as the Road Traffic Act forbids cars to be registered without a compliance plate of some sort). TSA will allegedly contact me again to make an appointment to fit the plate. Just to add another tiwst - I plan on replacing the L28ET in the Z with a fresh motor (closer to the original Nissan L28ET than the current custom setup) and the car doesn't need to be inspected again - just have the engine number changed. I'm just waiting for the 'attempted' defect for the (100% legal) dark tint on the rear windows of my Stagea.........

I'd just like to say 'Hi' from a new WGNC34 RS-Four owner I'm no stranger to (turbo) Nissans, owning a L28 Turbo 240Z, DR30 RS-X Turbo Skyline & now the RS-Four. My sister owns a GTi-R, and my dad has a 240Z (RB25DE), 1500 Fairlady, 2-door LHD 510 (VG30ET) & a original-owner 510 (FJ20E). Some of you may know me from Ozdat, or if you're into the 'Z' family, HybridZ, ClassicZcars, or the IZCC mailing list (among others). I've had my eye on the Stagea ever since Viper Motorsports had one here in Adelaide a few years back. Recently I made the decision to save my DR30 from the daily grind & get something a little more 'practical' while still maintaining pedigree. Enter the Stagea.... Only had it a few days, but must say it's a beauty. VERY impressed. I have (had?) a couple of queries: 1. The diff control button on the dash - explained in another thread. Too easy! 2. My car has another switch adjacent the diff control labelled 'Light Reduce'. Anyone know what 'light' it 'reduces'? 3. The momentry action switch on the drivers side of the dash - is it side-window demist? 4. There is a slight 'click' that appears to be coming from the rear-right of the car just as the vehicle starts to move, sometimes a couple of clicks. Something is loose, the click is not loud, but it does occur in reverse & drive but ONLY as the car starts moving. If you let the car creep & then accelerate (gently), it does not happen. It cannot be heard with the windows up, but when down it is quite audible. I suspect it's the brake pads moving in the caliper, which I shall investigate in the very near future. Other threads have suggested everything from wheel bearings to tailshaft joints & everything in between. So it seems that everyone's cause is different (as would be the noise). Aside from that, it drives like a dream.

Yes, the RE401A is used in the S14, R31(SII, SIII)/R32/R33, patrol & Z32.