BensDR30

I concur. DO NOT do a compression test, this will cause more damage even if it's just the value seats. You should do a proper leak-down test with the cams out - you will soon see which cylinders have damage. If that's too much trouble, them just start stripping it down, because that is certainly the next step...

+1 oh no Adam, are you telling us that you decided to spin the various ends of the engine independently from one another? (and had to use a breaker bar to do so?) If the answer is yes, then I think that that amount of force you exerted on the breaker bar was slightly more that what is required to bend valves...

83334-21S00 (SEAL-CENTER, RH) 83335-21S00 (SEAL-CENTER, LH)

PM me Ruby - not sure if I can me it but I'll give it a go.

I bought new seals from Nissan a few years back and they weren't hideously expensive - but the part I couldn't get was the metal frame that runs on the front edge of the window (mine were a bit rusty). Apparently it's sold as part of the window glass, and that's NLA... We managed to refurbish one of them and I got hold of another window which had one in better (not perfect) condition. I need to do some more work on it, because surface rust is starting to show.

Sold.

Every single L-block I've worked on has been assembled by some clown that did it wrong. Be it head geometry, distributor timing or general coolant or air plumbing - people just didn't seem to put in the effort (and probably assembled it with no reference materials). It's always a wise idea to tear any engine like this down for inspection, because you can never really sure what you've got... An L-6 can easily produce 150% of the OEM output practically forever if it was put together and maintained with care. I've pushed 200% OEM in one L28 via turbocharging for a decade with no mechanical failures.

For less that that you could have a bolt-in kit from my old MR30 L-turbo FMIC setup... (never mind!) The only metalwork mods required were to enlarge the radiator overflow-bottle mounting slots and trim 2 slats of the grille - that was only needed 'cause I fitted an intercooler fan. You certainly won't need t-bolt clamps for 0.5-bar, but you've bought them now.

The ecu isn't relevant. It's a simple analogue unit with no interface to the box. The diff is also a non-issue. Get all the bits, wire up the overdrive switch and you're done.

Yes & no... If you have the correct flex-plate, they will mate up to the engine no-problem. BUT, the gearbox x-member is different - you'll need to remove the gussets in the transmission tunnel that provided mounting points for the 3-speed, and drill the floorpan to suit the bolt pattern of the 4-speed member. The correct shifter plate, tailshaft and console surround are also required. (Note that the spline on the extension housing for the tailshaft yoke is a different count to the 3N71B, and FSxx71x series manual boxes...)

White 1997 Subaru Impreza sedan 189000km FWD Automatic KYB shocks (replaced ~8000km ago) 75% tyres (about 2 years old) Vision Alarm Tinted windows Well maintained (those who know me know how I keep my cars - all of them...) Does better than 10L/100km around the city (last tank was 9.2L/100km) Cruise, air, power windows/mirrors Current rego runs out in August, but will renew (we still drive her around a bit). Genuine reluctant sale - we have another little-one due in September, and a car seat + capsule won't fit in the back of this Subie. Located in Southern Adelaide 0401714207 ben.suckling(internode.on.net)

Not too shabby at all. I have a spare iron-mask bonnet if you still need one... (It's white, but the metalwork is in good shape)

Or use an ECUTalk and look @ the average economy reading... S1 RSFV, 3.5" exhaust, DFA, IEBC, S2 I/C, shift kit, ~150awkw: 12.5-13 in the city, better on the open road - providing it stays locked up in 4th. If your S1 is averaging 16+ on the flat in the city, consider checking your O2 for proper operation.

Steve used to race Club cars back in the '90's (Sigma Turbo, old Lancer with 4G63B), he then moved into Improved Production racing, and has raced Magna's and EVO's over the years. I had him do some work on my 240Z many years ago (when he was working from home). His background with Mitsubishi was in powerplant R&D at the old Lonsdale engine factory. He has a bit of a soft spot for the Nissans - I recall him being quite jealous of how easy it was to upgrade parts in my Z with modern Nissan parts vs. the awkwardness of fitting high performance parts to old Mitsi's...

Car Torque in SA have had custom rear bars made to suit C34 Stagea RS4 - see my thread for info, but the GT-R bar really doesn't fit properly in the rear (I couldn't make it fit at all - it was too narrow to mount to the body).

Do you have the 2Kohm resistor plugged in adjacent the coil?

Nice work, good to see the early stuff at the track.

I should have taken a photo last time I was at Ikea - had the Stag loaded to the hilt, and decorated with tinsel for xmas Anyhow, my litle girl thinks it's her car already...

I've had a few like that - they even comment when it's plainly obvious I have my 18-month old daughter in the back! Go figure... Try driving a bright-red DR30 with 16" Wats and a single-muffler (but legal) exhaust. You can't not draw attention to yourself. If it's not the FJ turbo whistle, it's the BOV! Funny thing is that I've never been pulled over in it, nor been given any grief while at an RBT or the like.

That sound's nought more than the turbo just starting to think about doing some magic with your engine's volumetric efficiency. You'll find that it is more pronounced with an SS dump - the OEM cast iron absorbs more db.

Lol, I hope to have them sold by then (I have to pay for my new ones tomorrow!)

Sounds about right to me too - I'm at around the 150awkw mark with some mods to the '25. Tuner was estimating that the engine power was 200-210kw. As Bob said - get a turbo-back exhaust at 3-3.5" with big mufflers and it won't be obnoxious, Nistune the ECU, add a couple of psi boost and see what a 'stock' 26 can really do.

If you want to take it to a workshop, then there are plenty that provide professional opinions - ATS, BoostWorx, APE, Turbo Tune etc. Another option is post on the SA section, there are plenty of SA Stag owners that can lend you their ears (and other body parts...) if needed.

PM sent (yesterday).

The set of wheels shown on my Z in my sig are FS; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5004749 Help me pay for my new ones by taking them off my hands!