BensDR30

Performance Superlites 15x7 with tyres, suit Z car (and other early datto's). 4x114.3, 11P $800 ono one-owner, excellent condition, selling due to upgrade. Details here.

If you're going to sell a product in a country, then get the marketing language correct. I can't take a 'performance' product seriously when the manufacturer can't even articulate what their product does!

The choice of spring rates has been discussed a fair bit in the suspension thread. The best Stag-specific 'upgrade' for tired stock springs is the Nismo S-Tune or TEIN as listed above (I've got S-Tune). There have been tales of 'not recommended' from Kings regarding using other models' springs in the rear (due to the potential loading), and then there's the coil-over kits you can get that are rated at 8+kg/mm which is damn stiff for a road car (M35's excepted). Don't be too scared to ask the question regarding spring rates before you buy. Having the car look better (and they do) by lowering it 30mm is a waste of time if you get spat out of a corner backwards when you put 300kg of gear in the back... I'm very happy with the S-Tune gear (Nismo badged Bilstein shocks w/circlip adjustment), but I'm sure a fresh set of stock springs and shocks would have made a big difference too!

A C34 will rust doors away before the drive line gives out. My parents' VL clocked up ~430k before it got written off, my Stag is at 120k and I expect another 200k out of it before I think about rebuilding the motor. The turbocharger should last just as long if it's given clean air and clean oil. My L28ET is at about 300K and is being retired in the quest for more HP, not because it's stuffed...

That's a damn good price for F8's. Those offsets should be correct for R30 (I can't be bothered removing my wheels to double check!)

idle should be around 700rpm warm in D (my ECUTalk shows it between 675-700), so that sounds fine for an 'S'

At that price, I'm trying to find a reason to buy it! I'm awaiting a call back from someone so yes, I'm interested.

Saw my first one in Adelaide today - a pale green example with plates "MYCUB 3".

Nah, you're not shooting yourself in the foot. More like in the head! But seriously, that sounds like an interesting conversion, and hey it's your car at the end of the day. Nisswreck in Adelaide might be able to help, but I'm sure someone local with a wrecked car can assist you. 8-cylinders of torque will certainly get a C34 moving! Might I suggest a GT-R/260RS rear cradle might be wise? (they have larger axles and an LSD)

My philosophy is basically the same as Nick (GoldZilla). My dad has driven all of my cars (and could any time he asked, hell I drove his for years without breaking them!). Mum could if she wanted (the Stag), but I doubt that the situation would arise. She won't even attempt to move the Z, even though it's auto and practically child-proof providing you don't bury the right pedal... My wife drives the Stag all the time, she's in it now. She's driven the Z plenty of times too (I always have to remind her the speedo is in mph). She isn't proficient in a manual, so hasn't driven the DR, but once she has some experience (in her 1.4L 1200 ute) that will be fine too. I don't think any of my mates have driven my cars in years - they all have company cars with private use so the need isn't there. Oh, and the in-laws have driven the Stag too, (they own a Forester GT, so an AWD turbo wagon is hardly a novel idea)

Meh, I've got my work xmas function that day, so it looks like I'll miss out on this one (The Directors Hotel - ha that brings back memories of ye olde Nissan SVD club meetings!)

If someone needs an OEM S1 dump/front pipe I have one for sale: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4967224 cheep, cheep.

Items: RB25DET and generic RB exhaust bits; 1x dump/front, 2x cats, 1x Nismo Muffler Item Condition: All second hand, surface rust on the dump pipe, both cats are internally intact, but need new studs. Muffler scrubbed up nicely with a clean, no signs of rust or burnt out internals. Extra Info: Muffler is genuine R33 Nismo (3.5" inlet). Bought to use it on my Stag, but failed to notice that the outlet is central, not offset... Dump/front is OEM S1 Stag - also suits R33. Cats are from my Stag and the Nismo system, I expect that both are 'compliance' spec. Good for those who need one... Contact Details: PM me. Price and price conditions: $150 for the muffler, $50 for the dump/front and $20 each for the cats. PM me with your preferred shipping arrangements, goods are located in Old Noarlunga - can possibly meet somewhere (I work near the city). (and no, the dog isn't for sale...)

Another option is a Water-to-Air IC. I'm using a PWR core in place of the OEM x-over pipe (my car is an '83 RS-X so it was non-intercooled). I've just upgraded my pump to use a Bosch unit, and am using the air-con condenser as the heat exchanger. The next step is to fit a reservoir of about 5L to increase the capacity of heat-sinking that the system can cope with. I'd post photos, but it's all apart right now with the pump upgrade and reservoir installation...

That's right - but you won't know exactly how to drive it until you're driving it (if you get what I mean...) You're aware what to look out for, now you just have to deal with it when it happens to reduce any undue stress on the gearbox. (I'm sure it would take the abuse of an 'ignorant' driver who didn't care, but why wear things out faster if you don't have to?)

You won't find them pre-gapped to 0.8mm, you'll have to adjust them yourself (if you insist on using that gap.) I've been running platinum plugs at 1.1mm and 10psi boost on '96-vintage coilpacks for ages. I'm sure that the coilpacks will start to break down one day, but at present they're just fine.

Get a new O2 sensor while you're at it. They don't last forever and are an important part of the EFI equation.

Here's a scan from my S1 FSM - note the differences when comparing it to Simon's S2 scans. c34_Stagea_ECU_pinouts.pdf

Try to get 2x20L jerries and wedge them between the back seat and the privacy blind. It's been a long time since I travelled anywhere near your route, but I expect that you're going to have plenty of 'non-scenery' in outback NSW. 4 days from Gladstone to Adelaide with a full trailer could be a bit tight - it depends on your average speed and how many flat tyres the trailer has If you choose the Newell highway route, you will have no issues getting 98RON once you get to Hay, and there are more 'bigger' towns along the route (Mildura, Balranald, West Wyalong, Dubbo, Narrabri). Forget economy, it ain't gonna happen...

+1. Get someone familiar with either the GT-R or Stagea to go for a drive with you - whatever is wrong it can be fixed. (also see if you can post a video link on youtube or the like, anything you can add makes it easier to diagnose.)

Chris, I bought a 3" Catco one from JJR - at less than $220 delivered, you can't go wrong. Yes, the ID of the flanges is 2.5", and a 'gutted' cat does screw up the flow - simply by being an awfully shaped vessel. If you really don't want to run a cat (remember that it is a Stagea, not a 400R ), get a decat pipe (for the track) or one of these: http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.ph...products_id=320

FWIW, I paid about $400AUD for a brand new one only 12 months ago.

My R31 racecar-to-be died a horrible death due to trailer loading and the subsequent speed wobble resulting in a crash. Both the tow car and the '31 were destroyed. Thankfully my dad who was driving, was ok (albeit a bit shaken!). It wasn't pleasant to watch it develop a wobble right in front of me and then see everything get thrown around like a rag doll... Observe the hitch load limits, make sure the trailer is in good nick (which can be hard when it's hired...), and don't rush. Oh, and ensure you have adequate in-car-entertainment for the long trek!

lol - I might need another VG snail!