BensDR30

It's not about the rpm's, it's about the load on the OD lockup clutch. You can use OD, but manually engage it once you're up to speed, as soon as you get below 100, press the button to disengage the lockup. FYI, the S1 drops ot of OD really easily if you're below about 120, this kind of behavior can cause excessive wear with a significant load. Fitting a bigger trans cooler should be a no-brainer - if you have an auto-parts store or wreckers, you'll find something suitable. She'll cope fine - where are you moving to?

So where are you located Michael? (I have surplus L-turbo parts)

Cawwwww. That is a pretty special thing!

From a 'spark' perspective, if your stock setup misfires at 1.1mm then you've either got knackered plugs, or coils or both. Running a smaller gap makes is just making life easier for the spark, and on 'mild' engine is simply masking another issue. (Your economy and power will also suffer when you start closing things up)

Or just do a full-lock turn with synchro on - If the wheels don't chatter like it's got a locked diff (shaking the whole car), then the xfer case isn't doing its thing.

Are you fitting new/re-ground rocker arms and the right size lash pads? If not, you're wasting your time and may destroy the cam in short order. I suggest that you have a read of the L series 'bible' available here or here or here. And take it from there.

Also have a read up on HCCI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homogeneous_c...ession_ignition. As much as we generally 'hate' EGR, it is a fundamental part of the prototype HCCI engines being developed at present. And some of the things that they can do are pretty cool.

The factory TB won't be a restriction for you at those power levels - the runner size would be more relevant.

Search is your friend, but around -0.5 is the target (my car is running more like -1.2, but I can live with that for the moment)

Sorry chaps, can't make that one - too many other things already on that day (according to the 'family calendar') (It would have been interesting, TT was where I first benchmarked the Stag in '05) And Chris, have any of your posts been useful?

Nope, nope, nope. There are instructions with FAST that will fix what ails you. In %windir% (e.g. C:\WINDOWS) \NSFASTW.INI ensure the following exists as the 3rd line; FontName=MS Gothic

Righto people, what's the deal?

Got pics of the Z?

Welcome! Bring it on down. A hot-day dyno sorts out the well-tuned from the poorly-tuned. Sure the power might be down a bit, but if the engine isn't happy on 40+ days, then the car isn't usable in Adelaide during summer! (My Z had it's first power runs in a 45+ workshop - with the a fully custom turbo kit. Yes I was nervous...)

So is the R30. But you won't find many IRS S12's around in Aus. Your best bet for non-CV is 240/260Z automatic - 3.9:1 I wonder if you can fit R30 axles to C210 arms? I would be very surprised if there was no compatibility there. Changing the arms would probably be easiest, if feasible.

The methanol is just used as an anti-freeze. Pure water is best.

MR30 - 3.9:1

There's too much brotherly love going on there...

***crickets***

You're quite right Nick - water doesn't compress, but neither does gasoline! (liquids don't compress) A 'little' water in the mixture is a fantastic anti-detonant and carbon-removing agent (steam cleaning the combustion chamber is an excellent thing). You can run mixtures around 13.5:1 at high boost levels if you can control the fire with water. The main reason that we run rich AFR's under boost isn't for the power, it's to control the combustion speed and keep the engine in one piece. Having said that, I'm not paying for water when I fill up, I'm paying for combustible hydrocarbons - and ones of a defined standard. I've used a couple of tanks of SAFF PULP with a little 'E' (can't remember the blend), and there was a difference in the drive-ability of the car (something felt 'nicer', but I can't remember the specifics - it was a long time ago). In summary; 98 preferred, 95/96 if you must. 91 if you just don't care...

Lol Chris. After trying to repair a CV boot on a mates '85 Civic about 14 years ago, I decided that; a) I'd never get a front wheel drive and b) I'd never try to secure a new CV boot myself - it was a shit of a job, and I'm sure it still leaked when we were done... Getting an AWD kind of stuffed up the first rule, but the second still applies! (I get all CV repairs done professionally, it's not expensive and worth the 'hassle reduction factor'.)

Not bad. did you paint the lower section the correct metallic blue, or black? I don't know how much lower you'll want it - mine probably rides about the same height as yours and I can only just get a conventional trolley jack under it... (plus the rear neg will start to get unmanageable)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4831664 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4798712

Drop in at the Stag dyno day next fortnight - there will be plenty of set of ears that can offer opinions (I won't say advice!)

Bugger...