BensDR30

Hi and welcome! The price conversion is $25kAUD, which is probably pretty reasonable all things considered. Does that badge on the tailgate say '26X Four' ? (if it does, someone's having a bit of a joke and had the badge made up) You should check to see if a modified car such as this can be registered - it would not be possible here in Australia to import and register this particular car. It's still running the standard non-Autech brakes (see image #7), you'd probably want to consider changing them for something better if you plan on increasing the power output of the RB26. As per other posts in this thread - look for rust around the outside mirrors and around the front strut tops. Look to see how neat the conversion is (it looks ok to me. You will have no true indication of the distance it's travelled due to it's non-standard condition.

People perform LHD to RHD conversions here in Australia all the time too - but not on cars like a late model AWD with all the associated complications. It's generally performed on USDM muscle cars & trucks and there are some conversions which are more successful than others. But in South Australia, LHD cars can be registered (albeit with some restrictions based on age). If you can find a workshop in Dubai that has done RHD to LHD conversions on R34 Skylines (especially GT-R's), then you should have a chance of success!

I think that would be one big custom job. The Stagea was a JDM-only car, with no export markets, let alone foreign manufacture (unlike the Z33/G35 etc) I agree with Adam - see if you can register a RHD vehicle there and base your decision on that.

It's not necessarily a Ti, but being an RMR, I think they all had air-con & PS anyway... (they certainly had 4-wheel discs) I think power windows & mirrors would give more indication of the spec. My 'plain' '82 aus-spec GT had PS & AC, A mate's '84 has AC, but no PS (it now has my old PS fitted)...

umm, which is it - 240Z or Skyline or Cedric (to name a few)? There are significant differences - it you post the block & head castings and where the sump bowl is located it will help your sale.

I'll be the first to admit that dyno numbers don't tell the full story and we haven't seen any graphs for your new car. But with 2.2L and decent management I'd be hoping for nearly 150 at standard boost. Yes my car 'only' has 140 (it was 95 when I took delivery of it), but it's internally standard, and running about 10psi through the standard turbo. Things we expect from you: Lots of photos A report on the car's condition registration into the 'registry' thread They don't come up for sale that often, so this kind of thing is a special occasion!

They look like chopped 'Type-1' ZG flares to me... (i.e as fitted to the HS30H 240ZG)

It was definitely an L-block (the FJ's all had LH exhaust outlets), The grille is also from an S2 GT/TI, so KN-R30 makes sense. I'd be pretty disappointed with 150rwkw from a 2.2L w/VG30 turbine & intercooler though... Hopefully it proves to be 'just right' for what you're after, IMHO the price is 'ok', but I'd be expecting to find some skeletons in the cupboard!

FWIW my '73 240Z owes me north of $65k... Unless you buy one already 'done', expect to spend about $10k on bodywork, $3k on suspension (at least), $2k on brakes, $3k on LSD/CV conversion, $5k on interior parts (at least), $3k on exterior trim, $2k on wheels, $3k on engine (for a mickey-mouse L28 with quality parts). $1k on body electrics (to bring everything up to modern standards), $1k on a reconditioned FS5W17B gearbox (or more if you want an FS5C71B or option-box). Oh, and there's also the purchase price

It's an intermittent issue for me, and generally not a major problem. On the coldest mornings, I simply hold the start position for a fraction longer to have a higher cranking speed. That seems to fix it (I'm used to the work car which effectively has a start switch, so 'cranking' a car until it starts isn't something I do very often ) Any intake leak will cause incorrect AFR's and poor running. I'm happy I don't have any such leaks.

HR30 with an FJ20??? Can you post a picture of the build plate?

FWIW, Subaru had to fit a pre-cat before the Turbo to get the WRX to pass CARB regulations in the US. We got them like that here too. I know of someone who had a pre-cat failure in a WRX & it ground the turbine wheel down into almost nothing - on a brand new car! (Yes, it was covered by warranty.)

... and change my + 2 into just me - The missus & little one won't be participating this time around. (there may be a different +1, but I'll let you know in due course!)

OMFG, no wonder you guys want to fit a different exhaust to your cars - that thing's just hideous!

They all look stock height to me. Measure the distance between the wheel centre & the guard lip (vertically) and post the numbers.

The snail in a stock C34 is audible, more so with a SS dump (less insulating than the OEM cast/mild dump). Without actually hearing it, I wouldn't say that it was good or bad. Some cars are quite noisy, others are quiet. The FJ20 has a real whistle, whereas the RB25 is more like a gentle 'howling' noise. They'll all get mighty noisy if the turbine intake gasket is buggered - been there and tried to drive avoiding boost because of the deafening shrieking it made.

33 ones don't I got hold of a 3.5" Nismo system from a '33 GT-R, and the mufflers were both centre-flow, and the angles were all wrong (the length was too, but I expected that). Some of the pipe was re-used, but neither of the mufflers were suitable, so it turned out to be pretty much a custom system. Anyone want a genuine Nismo rear muffler suit R33?

In most places, raising the suspension is illegal. That's not to say it can't be done, I think long-stroke shocks will be the hardest item to find. But your best bet would be to get an AR-X...

I'd add one correction - pry bottom of lens to remove from housing. And no tools are required, just your fingers. The glass backing-plate has locking tabs at the top, and clips on the bottom (un-clip at the bottom and slide the glass down). I've just changed over both my mirror glass for JDM convex items - it took about 10 minutes, and the only time a screwdriver was required was to brace the mirror internals while I clipped the glass back on.

They look all-models OEM to me. I've got the Performance-wise clear ones on my S1, and will just fit LED bulbs in due course. (My DR30 has LED brake, tail, reverse & parkers fitted to the factory housings)

sheet yea

Dave, I drafted up a lengthy PM to you yesterday regarding the FrozenBoost core you're looking at. But my daughter managed to kill my browser session, so I lost the lot... I'll get back onto it shortly, but in summary, I reckon it could be a plan. Especially considering that you can orient it in whichever way it fits best when using the OEM location. A small front-mount heat exchanger, and one of those Bosch pumps would be a great start (plus a few litres of coolant in a reservoir). Jaycar do a temperature controlled switch (with hysteresis) which could provide pump control. Too easy... Based on my 'not gonna chop the front bar' theory, it's also probably about the best that could be achieved. And I think I might upgrade my GP99 pump to a Bosch unit in the DR too.

Nice rice, it looks quite original. More pics please - and your location in your profile

Correct regarding the DB9 cable, and I'll PM you re: the IC.

Unfortunately, 'nothing on' does not equal 'no drain'. With everything off, start pulling fuses and checking the circuits with an ammeter. Come back with your findings.