MozzMann

No as long as you set both your wheel AND the Simulation up, then you won't suffer the understeer,

To a point anon as I am some oythers are working on several things , for Asseto including the Aussie V8's AND Aussie tracks ,

Opps Yes Warps GPL add On was superb And I concur on the fee's .

In answer to your question Anon AC, rF1, GSC, all with many Aussie and NZ tracks and Aussie V8's too. PC once I get some glitches out of my custom pedals, Previously have owned and played (still Do some of them) Pole Position, F1 '98, GTR2, GTR Evo, DiRT 1,2,3. Monster Truck Madness 1 & 2 and many other offerings from GT & Endurance cars, to Rally and Hill Climbs, some good, some bad and some that should never have been sold as a "Simulation" .

The Aussie V8's in Assetto and GSC as well as rFactor WILL go exactly where you point them and it is ALL in the Wheel and the actual setup as it applies to the actual car or Mod.

iRacing IMHO is one of the most over-rated simulations , and honestly there is no way I will or could justify the constant outlay.

There are a couple of Site's you might like to have a good look at, VirtualR . Net and rFactor Central , RaceDepartment as well. these have many likns to many many different mods for and tracks for most Sim platforms.

Soz and Yes that was for Zeb

But are you using the Profiler and setting the wheel ie controller up to maximise it's usability.

How many here do and what platforms PC please. I have NEVER seen anyone on the SAU TS so was curious .

http://www.crlaurence.com.au/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=3887&GroupID=2156&History=39324:330:511:330:54904:2152&ModelID=2156&pom=0

Up to a point Higher temperatures mean more power because more energy is extracted by more complete combustion resulting in more power being produce .

Re Camshafts yes sorry that should have read " Moly Steel billet " Chilled Cast Iron is generally used as it is significantly more rigid and as a result flex much less and has a greater resistance to wear, induction hardening is generally used on the lobes as well.

It is pointless trying to explain when people simply do not read, There are operating criteria for specific engines as I have stated all along, the higher the engine can operate within those criteria the more efficient it will be and depending on the design. NASCAR and often in a multicar train running generally full tilt and NOT in clean air so boom goes your argument there and why they try to keep temps down as this allows a much wider temp range before problems occur. but hey have a real juggling act between covering the radiator opening to get speed or opening it up to run cooler. As fo F1 and Indy they have no fans and as a result must build a buffer into the car where the air flow does the cooling but they don't overheat while in the pit (minimal coolant too as they want to reduce weight.) V8 Series, depending on the engine builder might have a design temp anywhere from 80 to 120 deg and again often not in clean air so it is desirable to keep initial temps low to again have a buffer temp wise while in racing in nose to tail areas.

Ben & Pulsar Again your not reading this as intended. Different metal expand at different rates now while this is Linear as you correctly point the rate between different alloys IS different , Copper expands and contracts at a significantly different rate to Titanium for the same temperature change for instance and out the result tolerances between components change. What I am trying to convey apparently unsuccessfully is the differences in expansion rates per temperature are taked into account when an engine is designed so that whet at the correct temp all works as it should BUT if the internals of the engine are too cold it will be as a general rule much less efficient. As I said expansion rates ARE different between different metal alloys and this is taken into account so that at the nominal operating temperature of the engine all the internal tolerances ie clearances are with the design specifications. What this means is if your engine is continually operating below the optimal temperature then you will get excess wear between components because the space between them is in excess of the designed parameter's . Again as a general rule the hotter the better up to a point because the energy release from the fuel has a higher calorific value (read energy release ) at a higher temperature. It's a bit hard to understand with modern injection system as they allow for temperature changes in the Engine Block, Air inlet charge and other factors, When older engines used a choke on a Carburettor to richen the mixture at cold temps but you get rid of this as the motor warmed up and got more efficient running with a leaner mixture. The modern injected engine is in essence no different in operation but used sophisticated electronics to manage everything from Ignition and cam timing to fuel delivery and drive train management so we are not aware of the inefficiencies at low temps . This however still does not detract from the statement " Hotter the Better " was referring directly to racing ( I was referring to racing here ) as the internal efficiency of the engine is significantly better at higher Temps . 95-105 for instance than it is at 75-85 and the sole reason why there is a thermostat in your cooling system to get the engine up to and keep it within it's designed operating range. . Now you can see what I mean I hope. Side note the reason why you NEVER remove the radiator cap from an over heated engine is the sudden drop in working pressure will instantly boil the coolant potentially severely scalding you.

" Ben" Again people DON'T read the expansion I am referring to as different rates are between the various dissimilar metals used in modern engines, even alloys of the same metal. Hence the hotter the better to a point as a design feature because that is how the motor has been designed, taking into account the expansion when heated so that at Operation temperature the tolerances tighten up and then change little as the internal temperature changes within the engine. Take the average Alloy or part alloy engine these days, there are Chrome-Molybdenum springs used extensively along with thin hardened shims they sit on, sintered boron bronze alloy valve guides, or hardened steel chrome plated valve buckets and their valve clearance shims, Titanium or harden alloy retainer's are now common to reduce reciprocating weight in the valve train, Stainless or more common cast camshafts, billet steel or cast or even Steel alloy crankshafts, forged steel con rods, chromium or hardened steel alloy sleeves in an Aluminium alloy block they ALL expand and contract differently and why as has been stated the hotter the better up to a point and the design parameter's of the engine take into account the differing expansion rates so that when the engine is at Optimal operating temperature the internal tolerances are within design specifications and will go a long way to explaining why some motors chatter or make a bit of noise when cold but hum smoothly when at temperature.

So your saying that the Stop lights are on, Yet you have removed the Fuse, and checked the Switch as fitted to the pedal arm. Question for you, is the switch etc on the ground side of the light ?? to if so then you have a short to ground somewhere check this earth your Multimeter and apply the Positive lead to the switch in Continuity Mode and if you get the buzzer sound (multimeter ) then this likely indicates that the switch is on the ground side of the bulb. If this is the case then it sounds like you may have a short somewhere that is holding the lights on . The intriguing part is the Fuse is out and you still have light on, Do you have Fog Light's and High intensity Tail lights ? there could be a voltage leak there and this is why the lights are on independent of the fuse. The Above is based on general vehicle wiring and may not be directly applicable to the Stagea either.

IF and I mean IF you can find one get a copper core radiator, that is likely to be a big ask because they are expensive but much more durable that alloy as thermal cycling will eventually crack an alloy radiator. Copper tends to handle the flex much better. Modern radiators with their folded clip tanks and "O" rings are cheap to produce and replace but the do have a finite life especially with the FRP used in the moulded tanks and other components. As for the running temp the higher and more stable you can keep it the better, ie if it runs at 95 C that's fine if it stays 5 deg either side of that, but radical excursions above and below create a lot of thermal stress. remember a 15 Lb cap for instance will raise the boiling point to roughly 120 C depending on the actual coolant you are using so if your engine is reporting 99-101 once hot that is likely about mid gauge scale. I know racing is just a little different to street but the hotter the better without boiling is considered by many as the norm 30 psi in a race system isn't uncommon so engine temps can be much higher and the expansion difference lower at high temps thus closer tolerances can be used to produce more power.

Your Hi-Ace is going to be rated at around 1400 Kg towing. Irrespective of what the rating of the bar you fit is you are going to be limited by a number of other things as well. 1 The Braking capacity of the Towing Vehicle 2 The weight of the Towing Vehicle 3 Type of tyres fitted 4 The Engine & Transmission type. 5 Even the Chassis Type. All have an effect on the ability to tow All trailers with an aggregate trailer mass (including the load) over 750 kg must be fitted with brakes to comply with national road regulations. Any trailer with electric brakes needs a brake controller to activate the operation of the brakes. The brake controller sets the timing and level of power output to the trailer brakes when activated by pressing the brake pedal in the vehicle. Total Mass or GVM is one factor and vertical load on the tow bar of the towing vehicle is another. Honestly I wouldn't be game tow your R33 on a tandem trailer behind a Hi-Ace because it is not legally capable of doing so physically perhaps but not legally, Your Hi-Ace is likely rated at around 1400 Kg but by the time you add the Trailer weight and any additional weight your likely to be up in the order of better than 2 tonne, WAY above the rated capacity of the Hi-Ace irrespective of what tow bar you have . I seriously doubt you can do it LEGALLY But according to some here I don't know shit. PS As a guide a 2005 Ford Ute has a towing capacity of around 2300 kg so that could well be on the limit

Apparently not it would seem, Anyway the best advice I could give you is , to get a number of scrap bits and practice repeatedly, trying different Current and gas-flow levels and taking note of their effect. You'll likely burn holes and get frustrated BUT you will gradually get the hang of your Welding Unit and get used to the pedal ( heat ) and feed (filler rod) and things will fall into place. Assuming your Welder uses a pedal for on the fly current control.

And prey tell WHAT makes you the resident expert ?

If your after GT2 GT3 Endurance, V8 Super's Off Road and so much more there are many various mods available for rFactor, Asseto Corsa and Game Stock Car, and after you buy the main sim all other content is freely available.

Laser scanning is only part of the story, there are many different factor's that give you the feel of various race tracks , BUT I concur Laser scanning does not make the track any more accurate, I have driven on some IRL and then in the sim both laser and non laser, and to be honest I could not detect any difference.

Not really because there are far better simulations around than iRacing, There thousands of people that build stand alone Mods and or Tracks and help convert various Tracks and Vehicles from one Sim to another. Remember these Mods and Tracks are freely available to the Sim Racing community FREE and they are made with love and passion for accuracy that cannot be matched by mobs like iRacing and SimRaceway where you pay for the content.

^ 4 ^5 Well if people don't want some educated mechanical input I shall cease .