MozzMann

Making good boards like this is pretty easy if you have the right tools , Sneaky trick running 3 LED's rather than 4 in each string allowing the brightness level between Tail and Stop to be a reasonable contrast. I'll be placing some LED's up the rear pillar on my Axis this weekend if I'm not on the road, so I had best take some pictures as well .

Oh OK I thought the Manufacturer was using an induction pickup off the output shaft of the box like most cars from about '95 onwards

You may need to get it to Bairnsdale or similar location and pick up from there/

Cool Master HAF X Case MoBo ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE Version Rev 1.xx CPU Intel® Core i5-3570K CPU @ 4.20GHz System Slots 7 PCI Memory Summary Maximum Capacity 32768 MBytes Memory Slots 4 Windows System Assessment CPU Score 7.60 (Calculations per second) Memory Score 5.50 (Memory operations per second) Graphics Score 7.80 (Desktop performance for Windows Aero) D3D Score 7.80 (3D business and gaming graphics performance) Disk Score 5.70 (Disk data transfer rate) Windows Experience Index 5.50 (Base score) Physical Memory 2257 MB Total, 111 MB Free Memory Load 95% Virtual Memory 10448 MB Total, 5072 MB Free PageFile Name C:\pagefile.sys PageFile Size 4096 MB In use 1317 MB Max used 2536 MB PageFile Name K:\pagefile.sys PageFile Size 4096 MB In use 1310 MB Max used 2518 MB Registry Size 114 MB (current), 682 MB (maximum) The system clock interval 15 ms Video Adapter AMD Radeon HD 7970 4Gb Dedicated Video Memory 3059 MB Shared System Memory 1024 MB Video Mode Description 5760 x 1080 x 4294967296 colors Current Resolution 5760 x 1080 @ 60Hz Monitor 1 AOC 2236 Monitor 2 AOC 2236 Monitor 3 AOC 2236 Monitor 4 Asus 7" Disk 0 Manufacturer Seagate Model ST3500641AS Size 500.1 GB Drive Letter(s) F: P: R: Disk 1 Manufacturer Seagate Model ST31000528AS Size 1000.2 GB Drive Letter(s) B: G: S: U: Y Disk 2 Manufacturer Seagate Patriot Pyro Size 60.0 GB Drive Letter(s) C: K: Disk 3 Manufacturer Samsung HD501LJ Size 500.1 GB Drive Letter(s) I: J: N: W: Disk 4 Manufacturer Samsung SAMSUNG HD501LJ Size 500.1 GB Drive Letter(s) D: E: Disk 5 Manufacturer Western Digital WDC WD20EARX Size 2000.3 GB Drive Letter(s) Z: Disk 6 Manufacturer Seagate Model ST2000DM001 Size 2000.3 GB Drive Letter(s) H: L: M: T: V: DVD Writer 0 Manufacturer LG Electronics Model HL-DT-ST DVDRAM Drive Letter(s) Q: CD/DVD Reader Write

Thanks I'll give Peter a Call

In some cars any ferrous metal debris floating around in the Trans can effect the induction pick-up and thus the speedo actually working based on your latest discription it would seem there is no voltage supply to the induction sensor, remember these are essentially a Variable DC Square or Sine wave generator BUT will not work if there is no DC supply to the Sensor AND it the sensor is not adjusted correctly (this varies from 5-10 Thou to as much as 30 thou depending on the sensor and gearbox)

This may help some here by explaining Steering and Suspension principles http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

I believe that Caltex supplies Costco as the trucks I've seen delivering there are JLP contract and they are or were contracted to Caltex Clyde Refinery in Sydney and the Ampol at Botany delivering to most NSW Servo's.

Sounds like this True Track know their stuff trouble is they are a bit of a drive from here, I need to get both our cars attended to before the Winter season , . the front end is quite good but the rear is scrubbing the inside indicating to me that there is excessive toe in rather than the usual toe out on the rear. Anyone got some steering places in Canberra region that are worth talking too re the Stagea suspender's.

Ravi widening the Track ( Left to Right Wheelbase if you will ) via spacers and or Rim choice can effect how the car rolls about it's centre of Gravity and how well the ARB's Shock Absorber's and other components function generall this is not a problem in reality but if the excursion from stock is great enough then this places additional loads on other suspension components.

Yes Kiwi the most important thing is having a tight fit in the concentric so the whee is locked to the hub as it should be. I think the NZ v QLD v SA v Vic v NSW laws and rules are likely very different from place to place and that is itself is a Pain in the rear.

Greetings and salutations to all from down in the Snow Country . MozzMann Proud owner of a pair of 2002 Axis Autech's a His and Hers Pair if you will.

I have seen quite a few Stud failures on bush going 4WD's but they would have been as a result of over tightening or impacts in rough terrain most likely. I've only a half dozen stud failures on regular cars over the last 30 years these are quite often caused by tire fitter's using those coloured torque adapter's with Air wrenches in tire shops instead of actually hand tightening with a cross wrench or better still a Torque Wrench, personally I have always used a cross wrench to check and tighten wheel studs and will never use and impact wrench due to the fact that you can bruise the tapered land and this can and has led to Nut's loosening and studs failing due to flex and fatigue. Since using spacers to adapt wheels to vehicles is a relatively new thing, say from the 90's on and having seen several per year this was a LOT to me considering that they have the potential to cause a lot of flow on problems, by widening the wheel track depending on how much you change the roll centres and other inertially governed suspension settings this then if the change is big enough places additional stresses on other components and can result in them failing.

What size are the Cap bolts as that will tell you all you need to know. but the weird part is there are a LOT of torque setting within engine that are simply used to have the same tension on the retainer's and keep any warping within the block to a minimum. I would Aim for between 35 to 45 Ft Lbs starting at 20 and working my way up until you on the upper edge at around 40FtLbs which is 54-55nM realistically this is a good figure for the Mains and 30-35 FtLbs or around 45 nM for the Rods. I'd make sure the Bearings Caps and bolt threads are spotlessly clean by washing in Shellite and Compressed Air blown clean and dry, a drop of light oil or assembly lube applied and torqued to specs. The Diagram below will give good usable torque settings. Most of the studs you will be dealing with will likely be 6.8 to 8.8 tensile strength as well . Bolt Size Pitch mm Head mm Strength Grade 4.6 6.8 8.8 10.9 12.9 3 0.5 5.5 0.51 1.01 1.35 1.90 2.27 4 0.7 7 0.95 1.91 2.54 3.57 4.29 5 0.8 8 2.28 4.56 6.09 8.56 10.3 6 1.0 10 3.92 7.85 10.5 14.7 17.7 8 1.25 13 9.48 18.9 25.3 35.5 42.7 10 1.5 17 19.1 38.1 50.9 71.5 86.8 12 1.75 19 32.6 65.1 86.9 122 146 14 2.0 22 51.9 104 139 195 234 16 2.0 24 79.9 160 213 299 359

I have seen several failure associated with spacer's . and strangely enough it is the studs that usually break. as a result of over tightening and the actual spacer not registering properly with the hub and the rim centre, remembet the studs hold the wheel to the hub ONLY they do not and should not ever carry weight as they are not designed to do that. Get rims that suit and fit correctly rather than use spacer's is my advice

Rough guide Find a parking lot or similar area where you can park in front of a wall 30 meters away or similar flat surface on level ground and measure the height of the bottom edge of the Headlight then at the wall your parked in front of mark that same height make sure that the switch in the car is at 0 On low beam. Now move the switch to the first lower setting and check that both lights drop a similar amount. This will be you base setting ( Hi you can't do a lot about I believe)

For bits and pieces I found a couple of places:- http://www.sinergymotorsports.com.au/ in Adelaide http://www.justjap.com/ http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/ To name a few

I have read through most of this thread and have come to the conclusion that there are some here that simply do NOT understand a few things about this topic of Brakes, I read some place here that someone wanted to have a switch in the ABS , this is Illegal and IF you have some sort of incident then your Insurance is likely going to be void. I will likely make myself somewhat unpopular but here goes anyway: The reason your ABS was felt is primarily due to 1 or a combination of 2 things poor road surface grip poor tire grip. This has absolutely nothing to do with the ability of the brake system to retard the rotation of the wheels. What this means is if you upgrade the Rotor's and Calliper's without due consideration to the tires (given the fact that tit is they that are doing the hard work ) in other words if you have shit tires then you in turn will have shit brakes it IS that simple, why well because the last link in the chain is the tires. thats why.

Sorry dude Pilot Sport 3 they are !!

While the recommended tyres for the NM35 Stagea according to the placard in my door sill are 225-50 -R18's I have found them to be an odd size in Australia and they are not cheap. I switched to using Michelin 245-40 - R18's ( Same tire size fitted as standard to many Fords and Holdens ) thus making these cheap in comparison to other sizes. Yes there is a slight speed error ie the Speedometer reads approximately 10 K fast at 100 KPH. ie 110 indicated is 100 Kph but no worse than was originally there. Impressions:- Now my immediate take on these tires is they are significantly smoother and quieter than the 225/45's that were on it when purchased, and the grip level is bloody fantastic both Wet and Dry, I'll reserve comment on Snow and Ice to after we get our first snows but given the cost of the Michelin's in comparison with other tyres's especially for commercial passenger carriage I highly recommend them. The big thing is while there is a speedometer error it is in the driver's favour so you read faster that your actually travelling. I am continually surprised how good the grip level is on these tyres. They blow Uni-Royal's into the weeds for quality and grip IMHO but go ask your local tyre shops and enquire as to what they might recommend .

As a retired Mechanical Engineer and Machinist I will only say this, ANYONE that uses spacer's is potentially asking for trouble, irrespective of whether the spacer has a decent ledge to re-engage with the registration land in the rim it will still place additional load on the studs that they are NOT designed to handle . The inside of the centre hole is the same size diameter as the registration land on the hub for a reason - and the reason is the weight is taken on this land NOT the Wheel retaining Studs and Nuts. IF you must use them then the Rim is not suited to the car it IS that simple and if your vehicle is impounded after any sort of altercation then your insurance could well be null and void as a result.

As a past painter I have never used a power buffer or polisher. but that's was my experience in the 80's A good cutting polish 1 or 2 anything courser might give you issues

I prefer and always used Maguires Polishes and Waxes , Now some will likely disagree with me but one of the very worst things anyone could do is polish with a power buffer or even by hand in circles , this will eventually lead to crows foot and other imperfections. I ALWAYS polish along the line of the panel, ie Nose to windscreen front to rear along the line of the bonnet. The Side Panels the same parallel to the ground. The reason behind this you don't scratch the base in circles and it is much less likely to develop weird scratches and that of course creates horrid reflections and can make the car look shabby pretty quick.

Sorry if it sounded that way PN but in reality AWD is not 4WD . Interesting scotty thanks for the info , some of what I was led to believe in but partially true then . I was admittedly basing this on my findings over the last week while away when I was checking wheel spin etc on a gravel raod and getting my eldest boy to notice the difference in front and rear wheel rotation, I was aware there is no centre diff . I use mine as a Private Hire Car in winter and the ATTESA system works IMHO Brilliantly I have been passed by people in Subies and other vehicles only to then pass them as they lost traction My wife's car is Identical and purchased mainly as she is mobility impaired and cannot fit chains to a regular Vehicle should it be necessary so the Stagea was a logical choice as I have been driving mine for the last 3 seasons as I said a Hire Limo and was so impressed by it's reliability and sure footedness that I bought her one as our regular car a Chrysler Voyager has reached the end of it's serviceable life (15 years old and 494K @ 4 Kids it has served us well )

Some of the comments here are IMHO very misguided, AWD IS NOT and NEVER Will be the same as 4WD !!!! AWD = All Wheel Drive and usually constant BUT in the Stagea's case is controlled by a complex management clutches controlled by the ATTESA system. 4WD = Generally a higher clearance vehicle can like the Stagea lock the Differentials so that power is not diverted to a slipping wheel but distributed to all drive wheels REGARDLESS of the grip available In the case of the Stagea Axis Autech it is AWD BUT with the capacity to LOCK the diffs when needed and in addition has a SNOW mode that retards the ignition and opens the internal waste gate in the Turbo to further reduce power in case of loss of traction on Ice.