217/r33

Hey mate, I've been there and done that but in a little different situation to you. I've spent all my money on cars, I have already had 2 skylines and a 180sx, also had a couple of nice commodores. You need to ask your self what is your definition of right and wrong because everyone has a different opinion. This is how it basically works out: 1: You buy the car and you stay happy for a little while then money issues start to get on your back, you end up in dept because of running costs like insurance, mods, fuel & maintenance. 2: You don't buy the car, stay rich and save but regretting you never got to do what you wanted. This choice is difficult because there is no right or wrong in this decision. I've always went ahead and followed my dream every time and have now been in dept for the past 3-4 years. There are days wen money is tight and I slightly regret it but at the end of the day I've done what I wanted and I'm proud of it. It doesn't mean you should do the same because if I had another chance I'd defiantly not borrow money from the bank, be patient and save money. Taking out a loan for a car is never the best idea. My preference from my experience would be to save for the car you want so you don't own any money to anyone. Then save for mods ect. Hope that helps some how, if you got any more questions just ask. Cheers, Alex.

It's called "Search" ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=116578&hl http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=107715&hl http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=115395&hl Can also find them at : http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkrturbo.htm I wouldn't touch a KKR-480, by the sounds of things its a lag monster! I think the KKR 430 would be very interesting to see. Cheers, Alex.

Like above, I've just done my flywheel, clutch (R33) on stands, got it of with a bit of force. I used a big torque ranch that you use to bolt up engines with and off she went... Rattle guns are not always good. If your using a standard size ranch just put a pipe on it as big as you can find that fits under the car and you should be ok. Cheers, Alex.

Oh and yes i did line up the clutch . Not my 1st time doing it but never done a R33! Didn't think this thing would be so heavy and tight ... The 180 CA18DET was an angel heh :sorcerer:

Thanks heaps for that great info guys, I'm gana give it another try some times this week and hope to get it in. Its such a bastard of a job! I'm going to drop the exhuast this time and get it up on 4 stands so ive got some more room to work. I've also rang a gearbox place and they also said that you need to twist the box so that the starter motor part face's down. Thanks again for the great input, and thanks to grigor for the PM Cheers, Alex.

I dropped my gearbox on Sat night to replace clutch and flywheel. Dropped the gearbox in a couple of hours and replaced clutch and flywheel ok. The car is on stands just at the front of the car, im using a hydrolic jack to push the box back into place but the firewall gets in the way of aligning the shaft into the clutch. Have any of you experienced simular problems ???? Should i jack the car on 4 stands instead of it being on 2 to get the balance right? Or is there a speacial angle that the gearbox must sit on for it to go back in? If any of you guys have any suggestions or tips on how to put the gearbox back in it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Alex.

Yes this should be done while you’re complying the car. Defiantly put it on the dyno to see how it’s running before you go do a 1/4mile run. You don’t want stuff going wrong! The workshop will tell you if all A/F ratios are in tact and things like timing and make sure its not pining. Putting a knock sensor would be also handy wile you’re doing the run. A tune up is defiantly needed here. Hope it all goes well. Cheers, Alex.

Try putting the old stock mines ECU back in. Defiantly sounds like a fuel/ignition problem. Take the plugs out and have a look at the condition. Faulty coil packs usually come from having cracks in them. TRY: *Taping the wire loom that connects all the coils *Replacing new plugs to NGK iridium gapped to 0.8mm *Checking coil packs for cracks (If so try to using silicon to fill them in) *Maybe a new Fuel Filter A few questions: *Is it running a fuel regulator? *Bigger injectors ECT.. *Any other modification you know about? If your running bigger injectors, bigger AFM's, cams ect you most defiantly need a tune. a full list of mods will help. It’s hard to explaining everything set by step. Try getting it to a specialist or a tuner to source out the problem.

I would defiantly get them to pay for a tow up there. Don’t drive the car! You may cause more damage. Make sure they get on it if it’s under warranty and resolve this issue. That’s the easiest and best option you have. Good luck with it all mate. Cheers, Alex

Hand controller for a boost controller? Are you sure its not for an aftermarket ECU? I don’t think that there is only one mechanic in QLD to deal with skylines... I'm sure a lot of people can recommend plenty of places. But I still highly recommend flushing your fuel system and changing your plugs and doing a full service on the car. Most of the cars that are directly imported are dirty and need a full service from top to bottom. A lot of import dealers actually clean & flow test the injectors, timing belt ect. It’s a big part of compliance.

Bad fuel? Flush your fuel tank (change Fuel pump filter), clean & flow test your injectors. And also clean the fuel rail of you can. Is it running any Engine management? If so check the tune before driving anywhere!. Check A/F ratio and boost levels, people have killed motors by not doing this.

Are you sure its poring in fuel? Have you checked plugs & coils? Injectors can be stuck open from dirty fuel and it has clogged up the injectors. Not cranking? Once again injectors stuck open so there are flooding a few cylinders, this also can be caused by bad plugs (flooded), bad coils or even ignition module. Maybe try a stock ECU? Might be the wrong tune... Checking them one by one will take you closer to you problem... Cheers, Alex.

Didnt read something in full soz... But good job mate

Most defiantly! If you go with T/B sensor from ECU your wasting valuable spool up time .....

What gt3037 are you going with ? The .63 or .82 exhaust flange? Internal or external gate?

Figured that it was no good when I found it on eBay but just though to give it a shot and see what you guys thought. Thanks for the great input anyway I think it will paint a clear picture for anyone else looking at these units. .........

Hi everyone, Need your advice and thoughts on this turbo. I'm planing to put it in my r33 gtst. Questions are: *Has anyone had one of these before? *Herd of this brand? *What power is to be expected? *Worth my while? Or should I just go for garret unit? Any other comments welcome, I want everyone’s opinion on this. This turbo is going to cost me about $400 dollars. SPECS: T3/TO4E TURBO SPECIFICATIONS: T3 TURBINE MANIFOLD FLANGE T3T4 TO4E - 5 BOLTS DOWNPIPE OR INTERNAL WASTEGATE FLANGE 3" INLET DIAMETER AND 2"OUTLET WET FLOAT BEARING 1/8 NPT OIL INLET .50 A/R COMPRESSOR .63 A/R TURBINE .57 COMPRESSOR WHEEL TRIM Turbine Wheel: Exducer 2.48" / Mayor 2.89" Compressor Wheel - exducer 2.07" / Mayor 2.36"

Just for the sake of this convo, can I ask what was wrong with the piston & rods, why did the crank needed to be machined? How did you come to that conclusion? I use to be a trader on this forum for a while. I don't like doggie sales and they should be reported. "dinzlr" Nothing against you mate but I’ve been responsible for hundreds of sales on this forum and nissansilvia.com so I know how important this is. Just want to get to the bottom of this so people don't get the wrong impression from ether of you. Cheers, Alex.

I suggest you redo you boost controller setup because R34's have a factory boost sensor located in the same place Will give you much better response. Cheers, Alex.

No no no.. Very easy to install... Let me explain mate this is a 10min job RED: IGNITION (+POSITIVE) ORANGE: SENSOR (BOOST SENSOR/MAP SIGNAL) GREEN: EARTH PURPLE: (OPTION2;COMP) GREY: (CONNECT TO EARTH FOR OPEN LOOP SETUP ONLY) I’m assuming this is a R33? If so you only need to use 3 wires. Red, Orange & Green. 1: Connect RED (+IGN) to a positive once ign is on 2: Connect GREEN (-EARTH) to a negative or to body 3: Connect ORANGE (SENSOR/MAP) To your boost sensor. To a wire coloured WHITE with a small line of green thru it. The stock boost sensor is located in the pic below. Just follow a small vacume line from the manifold down to where the master cylinder is, it’s just behind it (A SMALL BLACK BOX WITH A VACUME LINE STUCK IN IT) and you will find it has a plug connecting to it. It has 3 wires. Find the WHITE (with a small green line thru it) wire, it should be in the middle of the plug. Just pull it of and connect the ORANGE wire to it. You’re done! Using this method gives you better boost response then using a throttle body signal from the ECU, I find it to laggy. And it was only made for cars without a boost sensor. Happy Boosting. Cheers, Alex.

~ Original GTR Dash Cluster $200 :: Still available ? Please PM me or call 0415626630 ASAP. Interested! Cheers, Alex.

Need stock BOV ASAP would like a pic aswell. If available defiantly take it. Are you sydney based? Cheers, Alex.

This is how one looks like... Hybrid use's the same solenoid as Haltech boost controllers and I think e boost might use the same one. The rest of it speaks for it self. Don't judge if you haven't tried Just my 5c... Cheers, Alex. FULL LIST OF SPECS ARE BELOW.... * In cabin adjustment for high boost and low boost. * Overboost Feature - Hook up an external switch for adding 10% more extra boost. Ideal for take off in low boost to reduce wheel spin, switch to high boost after you get traction then turn on the over boost function before the finish line! Easy to install instructions are included. Very compact in size, so you can install it virtually anywhere in the cabin. This popular product is the result of constant refinement on the street and track. Hybrid's full electronic boost controller not only spools up the turbo quicker but also regulates the boost accurately. You can purchase the Hybrid Boost Controller in two different configurations: 1. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 to suit MAF (Airflow Meter) 2. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 including a Hybrid MAP Sensor. The MAP sensor version can be fitted to any turbo vehicle and allows for closed loop boost control for even more accuracy. Hybrid 3 Stage Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 Ask a question... Best of all, the kit comes with all the parts you need for your install: * Electronic Boost Control Module * Electronic Wastegate Solenoid (9 bar / 130psi pressure equalised) * Bracket for Solenoid * MAP Sensor (Optional) * Silicon Vacuum Hose * Wiring Harness * Fittings * Cable Ties * Pictured Instructions Supports MAF (Airflow Meter) on the following cars: * Mazda RX7 FC3S (Series 4, 5) - 13B Turbo * Mazda RX7 FD3S (Series 6, 7, 8) - 13B-REW * Toyota Aristo JZS147, JZS160, JZS161 - 2JZGTE * Toyota Soarer GZ20, MZ20, JZZ30 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE * Toyota Supra GA70, MA70, JZA70, JZA80 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GTE * Toyota Chaser GX81, JZX81, JZX90, JZX100 - 1G-GTE, 1JZ-GTE * Toyota MR2 SW20 3S-GTE * Toyota Celica ST165, ST185, ST205 - 3S-GTE * Toyota Caldina ST215W - 3S-GTE * Toyota Starlet EP71, EP82, EP91 - 2E-TE, 4E-FTE * Nissan Cima FPY31 FHY33 - VQ30DET * Nissan 300ZX Fairlady Z32 - VG30DETT * Nissan Leopard/Cedric/Gloria GF31, Y31, Y32, Y33 - VQ20DET, VQ30DET * Nissan Cefiro A31 - RB20DET * Nissan Laurel C35 - RB26DETT * Nissan Skyline R31, R32, R33, R34 - RB20ET, RB20DET, RB25DET, RB26DETT * Nissan Stagea W#C34 - RB25DET * Nissan Stagea Autech WGNC34 - RB26DETT * Nissan Bluebird U12, U13 - CA18DET, SR20DET * Nissan Silvia S13, PS13, S14, S15 - CA18DET, SR20DET * Nissan 180SX RS13, RPS13 - CA18DET, SR20DET * Nissan Pulsar RNN14 - SR20DET * Nissan Aveneir W10, W11 - SR20DET * Subaru Legacy / Liberty BF5, BC5, BG9, BD9, BG5, BD5, BH5 - EJ20, EJ25 * Subaru Impreza / WRX / STi GF8, GC8 - EJ20 * Subaru Forester SF5 - EJ20 * Suzuki Cappuccino EA11R, EA21R - F6A, K6A * Mitsubishi GTO Z16A - 6G72 * Mitsubishi Eclipse D27A, D32A - 4G63 * Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I, II, III, IV, V, VI CD9A, CE9A, CN9A, CP9A - 4G63 * Mitsubishi Lancer CD5A, CM5A, CK4A - 4G63, 4G93, 4G92

Have you even seen a Hybrid EBC ?? Not quite 400 but over 300. Catharine Caliro (Drift Cat) has one. Seen it on the dyno my self. I was there while it was getting tuned... A boost controller has nothing to do with the amount of power the car is making. It only controls the boost pressure its quite simple. It regulates the amount of air passing thru to the actuator / waste gate its nothing to technical. And 25psi is not a great deal of boost for any EBC. I don't think I need to explain my self anymore this is common sense guys. I just don't like people falsely rating Hybrid EBS's... Cheers, Alex.

Hybrid is a cheap boost controller? HAH you’re joking right? Its one of the best I’ve seen. Had a comparison on a dyno with apexi, greaddy even that Greaddy one with the screen and remote ect... None of them held the boost as good as the hybrid EBC... Hybrid held it perfectly steady with NO spike or imperfection on the graph and came on boost very quick, others came on boost late and build boost gradually and had little boost spikes. I don't know where you’re getting your sources about a Hybrid EBC because I’ve seen proof on a dyno my self. I would suggest a stronger actuator sprig like everyone else would say. Personally I wouldn’t go with e boost. Just my 5c... Cheers, Alex.