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Nice pics, very interesting break. I'm no expert but it looks like metal fatigue. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)#/media/File:Tender_fatigued_axle.JPG If the replaced driveshaft was a used part a contributing factor could be that the unit was repeatedly loaded beyond its intended limit during its lifetime aswell. Similar to when you bend a paper clip at the same point until it eventually snaps. Dark, corroded void near surface looks like it may also be a manufacturing defect but that's just assumption, could be just oil stain. As to why coincidently passenger drive shaft failure may be to do with how the differential is transferring load, similar to how an open differential spins one tyre under certain conditions. May only be far fetched and theoretical but hope this contributes to the discussion.

Stanced, a la Penny Farthing.

Wow, nice! how does it handle the extreme climate, any issues? RWD platform?

Hey all, Stumbled across this short article. https://www.trap.team/news/2018/11/17/nismo-complete-car-catalog Thought it was pretty neat.

Nice find, Sean ?

Hola! Como estas? Nice car Reibah, enjoy your sta! Mi casa tu casa

Hello Raefalot, Mine flash when I lock or unlock using remote. How come?

Hello Ryan, Maxed out as in lowered to the limits? Can you check if the dampening has also been adjusted to suit? Coilovers usually work well within a range but when they are set to extreme settings for daily duties they tend to fail. The short travel stroke can result in over agitation of fluids (decreased dampening, ie springy) and components to physically bottom out on bumpstops. Also the car's roll centres will be really out if you lower too much. Disadvantages may outweigh benefits.

Hello Brent, Don't be afraid to upgrade if you feel the need to. Swaybars are a safe enough swap for a commuter as you only really notice them when they flex (potholes rather than speed humps). From what I have heard swaybar bushings are another important factor in ride compliance. I think standard links will suffice. I believe adjustable endlinks are generally used to remedy misaligned suspension geometry due to excessive lowering and to balance corners via preloading. Might be excessive in your circumstance. Although you may want to consider refreshing the rubbers on the endlinks to keep everything tight. I do like the fact that Whiteline provide a whole kit. Keep us updated with the results!

Kon nichiwa, Kitsune-san! Hajime mashite. Welcome to the community and please enjoy your stay. Hai.

Clean!

Yay, friend! I have a sedan aswell. Welcome to the forums!

Not to take this off topic but I am surprised to hear that Nismo had made a packaging error. I was under the illusion that Japanese manufacturers seldom, if ever, made mistakes. I received mislabelled stabiliser end links from Nigasa Auto in Japan. Thought it would have been an isolated incident. Good luck with the sale!

Hello walperstyle, Welcome to the forums! What car club did you used to run?

Sweet setup! Welcome!

Hello R377, My understanding is that spring rates and damper rates are 2 totally different things but are tuned in conjunction with each other. I think substituting damper hardness for spring rate wont be equivalent to uprated springs. And harder not always better for track. Sorry, probably not what you wanted to hear.

Welcome angakh! What's it like owning one in Boston?

Hello Charles, Do you know if Coupe wipers are compatible with Sedan? If so can I buy them off you? Would you be able to arrange postage? I live in Sydney. Thanks mate

Hey guys, sorry I'm late. This came up on my feed last night. Though it would be relevant.

Hello Andrew, Maybe really dumb Q but will extra electrical output overload stock spec fuses? What else will I need to upgrade to run uprated alternator safely? Thanks mate.

So hot! Welcome Eddy!

StanP, I'm loving your ride! Build thread?

But I contributed nothing, just raised more questions!

Interesting scenario, can we perhaps negate car model and discuss the extremes to highlight attributes associated with big vs small rotors? Theoretically, as mentioned above disc size would increase the potential limit of heat absorbtion and dissipation through increased thermal mass. Would material also affect the rate and limit of which the disc could convert force into heat? If discs were thicker they would also be able to accommodate larger vanes increasing cooling surface area. I think also being more further away from the axis the braking moment (as in force over distance) would be increased, increasing stopping power but also may promote locking up? I forget, is unsprung weight a good thing or bad thing for handling? Larger brake disks would weigh more, statically lowering the centre of gravity but because not a rigid connection to the chassis may also be a disadvantage in a dynamic situation? Would rotational mass of rotor be negligible due to being so close to the axis? Heavy front rotors would take the trajectional force better under extreme application than lighter rotors, right? This would provide more stability on hard braking when the nose dives onto the front axis? I don't know, just curious. Any experts in this field?