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Everything posted by JD_R33
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Not sure if it's correct or not, but the page below seems to indicate that it's a Series 1.5...... http://www.gtauto.com.au/skyline.html
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Yeah, mine is like that too which is why I asked. It's got a couple of cracks in it, so I would like to replace it and not sure which version would look better.
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Ok, I thought all R33 S2 grills were the same, but it appears not: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-SILV...1QQcmdZViewItem Check out the engine bay pic in the bottom gallery, grill has mesh and an "S" badge. Is this standard, or wot?
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I picked up an Xforce turbo back 3" system for $650 including hi flow cat and stainless cannon. Fitting was about another $200. The silencer cuts down the noise noticeably, but looks like shite. Without the silencer it was tested at *just* under the legal db limit at the specified rpm.
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LOL, I think people will remember the brand now.......
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I guess it depends on your definition of "serious" in those circumstances. Even the ground announcer qualified his remarks about there being no serious injuries by saying "mind you, i'm not one of the ones in the back of an ambulance with a broken leg". Not having a go at you Stevie, but got a bit pissed off when the organisers tried to pretend something didn't happen and started playing it down and crapping on about "disclaimers" etc over the PA before they even knew what had really happened. We had called our kids back from the fence on the previous lap..... I know some of the C.A.P.A guys, I like the C.A.P.A guys, but that was a stupid idea.
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I feel a bit sorry for the driver for being put in that position in the first place, with such a small margin for error. Can you imagine how he felt when the he lost control and started heading for the fence? Unfortunately the post mortem will go way beyond what happened on Saturday night. The capacity for something to go wrong along the internal cruise route has been a problem for organisers ever since they were forced to bring it back inside the exhibition grounds a few years back. The previous incident when one of the security guards got hit by a car almost put an end to that, which would have been a real shame. They have looked at putting concrete barriers all the way along the cruise route, but claim that will encourage drivers to see it as a race track. The best solution would be to have a "one way" cruise route that allows more space between the cars and spectators, but that would involve changing the internal road structure (i.e. spending money).
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Sure there are always some element of risk at events that involve moving vehicles, but these are usually minimised as much as possible. Not the case on Saturday though - there is no way that setup of galvanised pipe and wire mesh could be called a safety fence. At the section just in front of us there were probably about 30 young kids, mostly sitting right against the fence or leaning on the top rail. They would have been very slow to react if the ute had come their way, so it could have been much, much worse. A real shame, because it only takes one incident like that to stuff up the whole event. I for one could have done without seeing a couple utes driving sideways on dirt, seen better at a B&S. Especially if it now means the massive safety review of the whole event that has been launched stuffs it up for next year. And a fractured leg isn't serious? Give us a break Chic.........
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We were standing near the Shell servo gate yesterday when this burgundy 'line with NSW plates smokes the tyres a bit on his way out of the car park/camp area. This fluro wearing official bogan nazi then proceeds to stop him, rip off his wristband and everyone elses in his car and kicks him out. Not 50 feet away an endless procession of cruising commonwhores smoke their tyres as much as they like, not a damn thing. Either this f#*ktard doesn't like (a) jap imports or (b young guys of middle eastern descent, or both. Oh, and then there was the expert"driver who plowed his "drift" ute into the fence and parked on top of some spectators last nite.....
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Here's my vote for Street Machine Of The Year
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Ok, dumb question on my part. I just found the book, and the specifications clearly say "Output signal.....switch to ground to drive solenoid connected to 12V supply".
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Isn't it the other way around? If all settings are at 0 the solenoid will stay closed, therefore the wastegate will see zero boost, therefore boost will hit maximum? I would have thought all settings would need to be at 100%.......
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Just a simple question about wiring the solenoid to the IEBC - does the IEBC ground the wire connected to the solenoid, in the same way as the ECU normally does to open it? Or does the solenoid need to be rewired so the IEBC operates it via a positive signal, rather than an earth?
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Not sure yet - might get out to the Cotter mid to late afternoon-ish, if anyone's still there....
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Yep, that was mine. Chris was fitting some of the Whiteline/Bilstein gear from Sydneykid's group buy. Look out for a silver 33 being pushed hard round some corners this weekend
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Umm, I think I like plan B better. Thanks Gus, I'll give Ed a call.
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Just had the Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks fitted by Chris at Inline in Queanbeyan yesterday, he also fiddled with the adjustable swaybar settings, wheel alignment etc and wow - it's like driving a completely different car! Can't wait to drive it again tomorrow.......
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Can anyone recommend a good place to get a FMIC installed in Canberra? It will probably be a HKS kit using the stock pipework so the main criteria is for someone who won't butcher the front bar any more than necessary. Also, some idea of what it would be likely to cost would be handy so I don't get screwed...... I would normally have a crack at doing it myself, but kind of out of action at the moment. Thanks!
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Is it just me, or does it seem that now there's been a bit of rain and the ACT isn't so dry looking, that d*ckheads think it is ok to throw their lit cigarette butts out the car window? Following a silver Nissan (not a Skyline) up the Monaro Hwy this morning this dumbass decides to flick his fag out the window - not just drop it out, but flick it upwards so it sails back, hits my bonnet then over onto the car behind me and bounces off into the grass on the side of the road. Brave boy then sits in the right lane beside some other cars so nobody can get around him. Thinking I might send him some visitors....... End rant.
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You can probably just modify the stock snorkel so it fits beside your cooler pipe - there are a couple of posts around showing how to do it, just need to cut a chunk out of it and glue or plastic weld a new bit in to fill the hole. I pulled the stock airbox out of mine and put in a K&N pod, but kept the snorkel in place. I've got the bits required to build a heat shield partition that will still use the snorkel, as there doesn't seem to be a better way of getting cold air in without cutting holes.
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Thanks SK, Springs and shocks arrived early yesterday - much quicker than I was expecting. For anyone else contemplating getting in on this group buy before it ends - I can confirm this is quality stuff and worth every cent......
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Hi SK, Tried sending a PM, but your inbox seems to be full. Just wondering if you have a full set of the Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks for a S2 R33 GTS-T left? By my calculations, the total price would be around $1178 for the set?
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Mechanical Boost Gauge Install
JD_R33 replied to Are_thirty_two's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I had the same issue with fitting a Speco boost guage - the hose from the guage was a larger ID than the stock hose that you cut and fit the T-piece into. I found a T-piece at Autopro that had 1x4mm barb and 2 smaller barbs. Fitted perfectly. -
Where To Buy O2 Sensor And Typical Cost?
JD_R33 replied to sl33py's topic in Australian Capital Territory
Yeah, what Terminal said. I got one from Repco a while back for around about 80 bucks, part number was ROX207. Easiest if you cut the wiring connectors off the old and new sensors, and wire the old connector up to the new sensor. The wire colours aren't the same, but not too hard to figure out, just do a search if you have troubles. I used crimp on joiners to reconnect the wires as they don't take too well to soldering. The sensor is also a right bastard to get out without the proper tool, as there isn't much room to swing a spanner, and normal sockets aren't deep enough to fit. All up, about a 15 minute job if you have the right bits.... Good luck!