JD_R33

Thanks Duncan, I had a feeling that would be the case. I'll poke a snakescope under there later today to try and see where the leak is. The taking it to a workshop plan is sounding good, just not sure if I can get it there without losing all the coolant yet. The little fellas that designed the RB26 must still be laughing at us. Bastards!

Had just been for a drive and was standing in front of the car with the bonnet up, when suddenly coolant started spraying out from the back of the engine bay, between the intake plenum and firewall. Too dark to see much, but i'm guessing a heater hose has burst, and was wondering if anyone had managed to replace the hoses on an RB26 without pulling off the plenum? Apparently the plenum is a bastard of a job, and after doing the turbos i'm not really keen on having to go through another box of bandaids. Any advice would be appreciated.

You might want to have a chat to Glen, I have a feeling the Supra boys may have locked in the June date @ ESP......

No worries, PM sent.

I must be missing something here - how could changing to a chipped ECU affect boost levels? Did you change anything else at the same time? Do you still have the factory wastegate actuator hoses hooked up, including the boost solenoid? If it's just the little brass restricter that goes in one of the rubber hoses you are after, i've probably got one of those.

Just to complete your thread for the next person asking the same question, here is the RB26 vacuum diagram. Not sure where it came from, but someone was nice enough to label everything for us. The version below is how I plumbed in the Greddy Profec solenoid. The red crosses are the hoses I removed, the red slashes are where I cut or plugged up stock lines. The orange box at the bottom and the orange hoses I added to this diagram are the new solenoid and plumbing. Cheers, JD

The short answer to your question is - no, you can't just plug the boost controller solenoid into those pipes. Well, you could, but it wouldn't give you any boost control. I just recently had to figure this out before fitting a Greddy Profec controller, here's what I found: - At the back of the intake plenum there is a black vacuum hose that runs into a T-piece hidden up under the plenum. Don't worry about the T-piece as you probably can't get to it without removing the plenum. - There will be a hard line/hose running from one side of the T piece around the back of the block to the actuators. This is the boost supply to your wastegates. - The other side of the T-piece runs forward under the plenum and into the stock solenoid you have circled in the picture above. - The hose coming out of the solenoid runs back under the plenum, around the back of the block, and into the intake side of one of the turbos. So basically, the solenoid just bleeds off some of the boost pressure, reducing the amount the wastgates see. If you just plumb the solenoid of your boost controller into the same lines, it will just work like the stock solenoid did, which is fairly useless. What you need to do is plumb the solenoid somewhere into a line going directly from the boost source (i.e. plenum) to the wastgate actuators. There are a few ways to do it, but this is what worked for me: - Pull the small stock hose off the connection at the rear of the intake plenum. I managed to pull the hose out completely, but you can just plug it up if you want. - Run a new length of hose from the intake plenum connection around the back of the engine to the new b/c solenoid. I made up a bracket and mounted the solenoid between the power steering reservoir and ABS. - Run a hose from the other side of the b/c solenoid to your actuators. You can use a T-piece, or disconnect the stock plumbing for the actuators where it runs back around the block towards the plenum and hook it into that. - Locate the return side of the line that goes from the stock solenoid into the turbo intake pipe and remove it at the turbo end, and put a cap over the pipe and clamp or at least cable tie it. You could just plug that line at the solenoid end instead, but I wanted to completely remove the stock solenoid and the hoses that run into it. If that's not clear enough give me a shout and i'll see if I can find a vacuum line diagram.

Why don't you just pop that little plastic piece out of the console and see where the wires go? You can just gently prise it out with a screwdriver. Or, you could just yank really hard on the wires, and see if something suddenly stops working

My car has been on the same dyno as Kat's and so have lots of other peoples that I know. We have almost all been on other dynos as well, so I think we'd know if there was something dodgey about Ed's figures. At least three of us actually think his dyno reads a little low if anything......

+2 Even better still, save some more dollars and get the actual HKS GT-SS kit, comes with all the extra bits you need. Good for 300+KW if you decide you want a bit more than your original goal. I'm in the process of installing a set right now, and it's nice not to have to go hunting for gaskets, copper washers etc. And it's refreshing to see a new owner who doesn't want to know how they can get their GT-R to make eleventy billion horsepower.

Last place I got a non-genuine fan clutch from was Motor Spares in Molonglo Mall Fyshwick. That was for my old R33, and from memory cost something like $160, but still a lot cheaper than Nissan. That's just for the centre clutch, not including the fan.

Well , I managed to get to pretty much none of the SAU events this year apart from Shannons, barely drove the car, and got spotted about zero times I think. Did catch up with a couple of guys at the museum one night, and a couple of others with parts and stuff. Anyways, hope you and your families all have a safe and merry christmas. Hopefully i'll do better next year!! Cheers, JD

Yeah, I laughed at some of the science in that thread too, but linked it in more to explain why they are doing the mod. Just looking at the way the flow from the turbos comes together at almost 90 degrees in the stock pipe compared to how it looks with the divider, it isn't hard to imagine some gain though, even if only a relatively small one. I don't know if i'll bother putting it on now though, as I am about to put in a new set of turbos, injectors etc along with a retune, and will probably just swap the pipe over at the same time.

For anyone with a GTR still running the stock twin turbo pipe that's interested - I got a mate to weld a divider into mine, just got it back today and it turned out pretty good.... If you don't know what the mod is all about, it's been fairly heavily discussed over on the UK GTR site, you can check it out here - http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/84482-testing-m...turbo-pipe.html They actually sell them from the shop on the UK site, but the shipping is pretty steep and you have to send them back your stock pipe. Anyways, if anyone wants their pipe done just let me know and i'll give you my mate's workshop details. Don't know if he's the cheapest around, but I do know he's a perfectionist and the welds are sweet and the cut for the dividing plate is in exactly the right place, apparently took him about 2 1/2 hours.

Sam, I have a Jaycar auto trickle charger which connects to the engine bay fusebox and seems to charge my R33 just fine. It came with a flylead with O ring terminals that go on the +/- fusebox jumpstart points, and a plug on the other end to connect it to the charger. The flylead is just long enough to reach out the front over the drivers side headlight so the bonnet could be closed with it in place, but I tend to leave the bonnet popped so I don't accidentally forget it's connected and drive off with the charger dragging along behind me. I figure if those terminals are good enough to jumpstart the car, they're good enough to trickle charge the battery. Cheers, JD

Only differences are those mentioned in the earlier posts, the paint code on the engine bay plate is your best bet for confirming it's an LM. Should look something like this:

Check the paint code on the plate in the engine bay - if it's a genuine R33 LM it should be BT2 (Champion Blue). As above, they are the same as a normal R33 GTR V-Spec as far as the engine/AWD/drivetrain/suspension etc are concerned. Main differences are cosmetic like the blue paintwork, a carbon fibre rear wing blade, C pillar stickers and bonnet lip. You can read some more here: http://noriyaro.com/?p=1043 and here: http://tyndago.googlepages.com/lmlimited.

Here you go: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/125597-my-r33-l...ted-pics-4.html

Thanks, i'll give them a try. I even found the part numbers for them in my R33 parts listing!! The guys over at the UK GTROC forums were looking for someone to take a high res front on shot of their sticker so they can get some made up, apparently they are a bit hard to get over there. Any chance you could get a shot of one of yours some time?

I might try the local Nissan dealer for a set of original stickers, they have surprised me before with getting GTR parts that I thought were no chance. Otherwise, there are a couple of other LM owners on the UK GTR forum that are going to get some custom made, so i'll just pester them to be included.

Another LM for the collection. Mine was missing the C pillar stickers, japanese owner musn't have liked them Otherwise has all the usual LM bits. Don't have too many recent pics. A couple from the compliance shop. Still on stock wheels, can't get the white LM-GT4's I wanted, and haven't decide what else to put on it yet.

PM sent.

If you don't necessarily want brand new, I have a full set of used stock springs and shocks off a 96 R33 S2 that should get you through rego. Since you're new here, and had good enough taste to buy a Skyline, you can have them cheap . Oh, and you'll find the filters listed in the Ryco catalogue, but the imports are normally in a different section to the domestic models. Or try www.rycofilters.com.au. From memory - oil is Z145A, air is A360. Fuel filter could be one of about three different models, best to take the old one in with you and just compare it.

Oh, and nengun.com has them for $175.68 a piece at the moment, so $1054 a set delivered. $800 sounds pretty good depending on delivery + commission $'s (guessing that's from Streeter?)

I had a similar dilemma and went with the Nismo's. Don't know much about the Sards, but I don't mind paying a bit more for good quality stuff that you know is going to fit without fecking around with adaptors etc, and that's exactly what you get with the Nismo gear. Good luck with it. Cheers, JD