JD_R33

Oops, forgot to mention - reasonable offers considered.

Ok, more stuff that needs to go out of my shed. Set of R33 GTS-T S2 stock wheels fitted with 4 x 205/55 R16 roadworthy tyres. Will throw in two extra tyres as spares. From memory, a couple of the wheels have some kerb rash, but are otherwise in great condition. $200 Complete set of R33 GTS-T S2 stock front and rear springs & shocks in good condition $100 Pair of R33 GTS-T S2 stock sway bars $50. R33 GTS-T S2 complete turbo-back stock exhaust system in good condition $100 Set of R33 GTR stock front/rear springs and front shocks (no rear shocks) $150 Pair of R33 GTR stock sway bars $100 each. PM for further info.

Having a clean out of the shed at the moment, the following new parts have to go. Jaycar Kits KC-5387 Independent Electronic Boost Controller kit - RRP $79.95 - More info here. KC-5385 Digital Fuel Adjuster kit - RRP $84.95 - More info here. KC-5386 Hand Controller kit for IEBC/DFA - RRP $67.95 - More info here. WC-7502 D25 connecting cable - RRP $13.95. Total RRP $246.80 - will sell as a bundle for $150. Sydneykid and a few others have fitted these kits, do a search in the Tech forums for more info if you're not sure how/if they will work on your car. Also have a KLS Short Shifter kit for R33 GTS-T still in the box, with genuine Nissan nylon bush and longer hex head bolts, to replace the shorter versions included in these kits. Cost $100 without the genuine bush and longer bolts - will sell for $70. Shoot me a PM if you want any more info, these are cheap so first in best dressed

It's because you bought the wrong car! It should at least to the max line when hot or cold, allowing time for it to sit and all the oil to drain back into the sump.

If it's anything like my R33 you'll get to it through the boot, and it will be behind the front boot liner on the opposite side to the battery. There should be a big plate with the fuel hoses and wiring running into it - you unbolt that, then there should be a round collar below it that holds the pump assembly in. In fact, I think there are a couple of tutorials in the DIY section for installation of Bosch or Walbro pumps. The Nismo should go in a lot easier because you don't have to hack anything to get it to fit. If you get stuck give me a shout - i'm down in the deep south but happy to help out.

haha - road raged by an old diesel ute!! The bus driver dude was lucky his car stopped before it got to the road......

Spotted sfrizza heading into work this morning - I gave you a toot from the stealth Hilux. Was I seeing things, or was there a maroon car nose down over the embankment in the bushes, just up from your work's driveway yesterday arvo?

Just for comparison sake, my GTR is 365mm from centre of wheel to bottom of wheel arch at the front, and 355mm at the back. There is plenty of adjustment left on the coilovers, but any lower and my exhaust will probably be scraping on bumps, where at the moment it doesn't. I got lucky with the suspension set up - my suspension guy had a brand new set of Eibach springs and Bilstein adjustable coilovers sitting on the shelf that someone had ordered and never picked up, so I got them pretty cheap. We did front and rear tie rods, adjustable camber and castor bushes while we were at it, and I just put on a pair of Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars. It handles pretty well now.

Appreciate your suggestions guys, all good stuff. My LM has been lowered since the above pic, not sure how much lower than standard it is, but it seems to be enough to lose the 4wd look. The Fujitsubo exhaust hangs pretty low in one spot, so the car was lowered just enough to keep the bare minimum (100mm) clearance underneath. I don't like being defected. After a bit of research it seemed that there would be no problem fitting 18x9.5 with +12 offset, so that's why I was going with that size.

Maybe the 400R's did, not sure about the LM's. Maybe it was an option? Mine just had the same wheels as the other GTR's:

Thanks Brandon, the TE37's look pretty good in white too, just not as "chunky" as the LMGT4's. Do you know if the 18x10.5's in +22 offset need any mods to fit on an R33 GTR?

Thanks for the pics Matt, the Volks look great on your GTR. I had pretty much decided on a set of the 18x9.5 LMGT4's in white, only to find out that Rays are out of stock and apparently not planning to make any more I can only get them in bronze or silver, and the stocks of silver are almost all gone. The guys at Performalink can get me a set of the silver wheels spray painted white by the factory for an extra $400, not sure if the end result would be as durable as the original white versions from the factory though. I could always go with copies like the Rota's, but would have really liked the JDM's. God I hate choosing wheels..........

There are lots of low profile jacks around, even Supercheap had them last time I was in there. The problem is usually finding one long enough to reach right under the front of a lowered car to the cross member without the jack body or handle fouling on the front bar. Before you shell out for one, I suggest you ask the shop to let you try it on your car first. I just use a fairly large scissor style jack that I got from the wreckers for $5. I cut the crank part of the handle off, extended it by about 40cm and added a 1/2" socket drive to the end. From the front of tha car I just slide it under the front cross member and use a cordless impact driver to quickly wind it up and down. Bit ghetto, but it's only used to get the car up and down onto axle stands. The other thing that's really useful is a good set of ramps, but again it can be a problem driving a lowered car on to normal metal ramps. I just picked up a set from Autobarn that have a detacheable extension that reduces the angle of the ramp so it clears the front bar.

No idea - just give them a call - 6228 1428. Haven't been in there for a couple of years, but back then they did seem to at least have matching pairs of most sizes. Depends on how fussy you are with having same tyres front and back. They also had some really weird sh1t like snow tyres

I would suggest that anyone ordering wheels from Rays via any of the brokers check availability prior to placing the order. Jesse Streeter will check availability if you are serious about buying, not sure about Nengun etc. If Rays don't have them in stock you could be in for a long wait......

Not sure about retreads, but North West Tyres in Wollongong St sell low mileage imported used tyres pretty cheap.

Was it found dumped in Calwell, or at someone's house?

Top right corner of each post - Options box. Click the down arrow and under Display Mode choose Switch to Standard. Is that what you meant?

Sorry to hear about your brother's car Erin. Quite a few people on here have had their cars stolen or almost stolen this year, so i'm sure everyone will keep an eye out for it. If you have a photo of it, post it up, it all helps. I would suggest your brother gets as many mates together as he can, and goes out looking for it. I would start with the out of the way places these low-lifes tend to dump cars, like Pine Island, Point Hut, Kambah Pool on the southside, old federal highway on the north side etc. A few of the cars previously stolen have also been spotted at the various ghetto flats in Griffith, Woden, Braddon, Civic etc so worth a look around there as well. Maybe a few other SAUers can suggest some more places to look. Have you also posted this on the other Canberra car forums? Good luck, hope he gets it back in one piece. Cheers, JD

A quick fix for IE7 users to try - go to Tools > Internet Options > Advanced tab and uncheck the box next to "Show friendly HTTP error messages". Click "Apply" and close the dialog box. Try going into a forum post and then clicking the back button. Well, it worked for me

If you click on the little downward arrow to the right of the Back button in IE7, you will see what's causing the problem. Between "Current Page" and the last page you actually visited you will see an ad server link that starts with something like http://googleads.g.doubleclick....... That seems to be reloading the current page when you click the back button. I think there is a HOST file fix for this, will post back if/when I find it, hopefully there is something the site admins can do about it as well.

^^^ what he said. I went from 198 to 240RWKW with the PowerFC and a mild tune. Different dynos, but both runs were done with Fujitsubo exhaust, front pipe, K&N panel filter and boost restrictor removed. Otherwise totally stock.

My memory musn't be as bad as I thought - nearly 5 years ago and I actually remembered the right brand. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/di...lan-t56873.html Now if only I could remember where I left my car keys an hour ago..........

I've only ever used Powatone at Fyshwick for exhaust stuff, reasonably priced and they've always done a good job. If it's just a catback, like Titan says, have a go at it yourself. Mine was turbo back, not my idea of fun when the rusted on dump pipe bolts snap, so left it to the pro's.

I lost the cap off my old R33 GTST-T a few years ago and found one on a bottle of soy sauce in the kitchen cupboard that fitted perfectly. Too long ago, but I think it might have been Fountain brand. It was even a nice gold colour - bling, bling