Franko07

All good mate its needs to go back on the dyno anyway so i think ill go somewhere else and just let them know what they need to do. Thanks

Yeh it seems its as i suspected that he hasnt hit "ok" on the ol computerydoodad. Im in Perth in the hills..

yeh i don't think the vss is needed in my case as I'm trying to trigger it with the a/c as rb20 ecu doesnt have vct option at all. The other option in Nistune's manual is to use the fuel pump idle up pin as apparently the ecu adjusts the standard fuel pump but when you upgrade to better pumps this is no longer needed. This sounds a lot harder, messier though. I just wanted to see if how hes modified the board is correct as there's no diagrams on Nistune's site. I'm pretty sure he just hasn't uploaded the files that let the ecu know that your now using the a/c so the solenoids not getting any signal atm....

i haven't got the software myself that's what i needed the tuner to do but i was trying to work out if it was a mechanical problem or a programming thing. Tbh he didnt seem to care if it worked or not which is annoying as that's one of the things i needed him to do..

Is VSS vehicle speed sensor? As i have it and it works as i was running the car off the standard 25 ecu and solenoid would click and could see it on multimeter even if the wheels weren't moving. Speedo works too.

Hi as title suggests I'm using an RB20 ecu to run my 25 drift sled and the vct doesnt seem to be working. Can not hear the solenoid click at all, have tried jacking the car up and had the wheels moving and still doesn't seem to work. As far as i can work out the tuner has tried to use the air con signal pin in the ecu to try and trigger the vct. From the looks of it it seems to be done right, I'm starting to wonder if this is a software problem and he hasn't flashed the ecu to now know to use the air con...? He said he didn't know if it was working or not but didn't have time to check as we had other dramas that day with the car.. can anyone confirm that this is how you do it? thanks

This is what ive always used to get a sensor into the sump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OIL-TEMP-GAUGE-SUMP-PLUG-ADAPTOR-FOR-NISSAN-S13-S14-SR20-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-ASQ-/121748884691?hash=item1c58cc8cd3:g:It8AAOSw3xJVbtGl Just put a plug onto your sensor wiring so you can disconnect it for oil changes...

I'm not sure about the flat spot thing mentioned but my car does the same thing since lifting the boost up so I'm interested to see if the VCT is the cause? But if you want to test this i would suggest just unplugging the vct at the head going for a drive (as i believe it only works when in gear, not idling) then plugging it back in and see if it makes a difference. I think the reason they don't want you to join straight to the battery is chances are you will use the wrong gauge wire without a fuse and shit will get hot and it's just dodgy having something permanently powered when the car is off unless its a memory function for something.

i read a lot of people were using something called a dakota box to do this, i didn't look into this much as i had a speedo I'm assuming its some type of signal converter though...

i think he means a solenoid for each turbo (34 gtr) i thought you just tee'd the two wastegate lines together and used a single solenoid controller. could be wrong though never had twin turbo...

yeah i didn't realise that meant they were un polarized, thanks!

yeh a lot of the posts are from people having problems trying to get around the speed limiter. I'm learning to drift atm so my entry speeds don't need to be as hectic for now. I guess ill hook it up and see if it makes a difference and if not i can always just unplug it again from the gearbox

well from what i can work out apparently the voltage put out from the sender is in AC frequency so its basically un-polarized can any one confirm this? It explains why there the same colour cause it doesn't matter which way they go then so i might just twitch them together so i can swap them around in case it doesn't work...

cant find any more info in the fsm about it though just says you need consult to see if its working but she definitely isnt! lol i took the sensor out of the box and connected a multi meter to both wires and put a drill on the end to spin it and i got a good voltage reading so i know the sensor definitely works as well still doesnt clear up which wire goes to the cluster

ok sure thing that's ok as i have an r33 cluster in the car so it should convert it fine. What i really need to know is which wire is the signal wire coming from the sensor itself as they are the same colour??? and then i found this pic http://s689.photobucket.com/user/rmcallis/media/Speedo%20Corrector/CopyofSpeedo-2RearShowingSignals.jpg.html so once i find which is signal i can put it direct to the back of the cluster to that top left pin? and then run a wire from ECU to top right? then just power and earth and it should work? Apparently FYI this really does effect the car, in the FSM it says that's it restricts your idle and has a fuel cut and stops your vct so its something you definitely want hooked up!!