Franko07

All good mate its needs to go back on the dyno anyway so i think ill go somewhere else and just let them know what they need to do. Thanks

Yeh it seems its as i suspected that he hasnt hit "ok" on the ol computerydoodad. Im in Perth in the hills..

yeh i don't think the vss is needed in my case as I'm trying to trigger it with the a/c as rb20 ecu doesnt have vct option at all. The other option in Nistune's manual is to use the fuel pump idle up pin as apparently the ecu adjusts the standard fuel pump but when you upgrade to better pumps this is no longer needed. This sounds a lot harder, messier though. I just wanted to see if how hes modified the board is correct as there's no diagrams on Nistune's site. I'm pretty sure he just hasn't uploaded the files that let the ecu know that your now using the a/c so the solenoids not getting any signal atm....

i haven't got the software myself that's what i needed the tuner to do but i was trying to work out if it was a mechanical problem or a programming thing. Tbh he didnt seem to care if it worked or not which is annoying as that's one of the things i needed him to do..

Is VSS vehicle speed sensor? As i have it and it works as i was running the car off the standard 25 ecu and solenoid would click and could see it on multimeter even if the wheels weren't moving. Speedo works too.

Hi as title suggests I'm using an RB20 ecu to run my 25 drift sled and the vct doesnt seem to be working. Can not hear the solenoid click at all, have tried jacking the car up and had the wheels moving and still doesn't seem to work. As far as i can work out the tuner has tried to use the air con signal pin in the ecu to try and trigger the vct. From the looks of it it seems to be done right, I'm starting to wonder if this is a software problem and he hasn't flashed the ecu to now know to use the air con...? He said he didn't know if it was working or not but didn't have time to check as we had other dramas that day with the car.. can anyone confirm that this is how you do it? thanks

This is what ive always used to get a sensor into the sump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OIL-TEMP-GAUGE-SUMP-PLUG-ADAPTOR-FOR-NISSAN-S13-S14-SR20-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-ASQ-/121748884691?hash=item1c58cc8cd3:g:It8AAOSw3xJVbtGl Just put a plug onto your sensor wiring so you can disconnect it for oil changes...

I'm not sure about the flat spot thing mentioned but my car does the same thing since lifting the boost up so I'm interested to see if the VCT is the cause? But if you want to test this i would suggest just unplugging the vct at the head going for a drive (as i believe it only works when in gear, not idling) then plugging it back in and see if it makes a difference. I think the reason they don't want you to join straight to the battery is chances are you will use the wrong gauge wire without a fuse and shit will get hot and it's just dodgy having something permanently powered when the car is off unless its a memory function for something.

i read a lot of people were using something called a dakota box to do this, i didn't look into this much as i had a speedo I'm assuming its some type of signal converter though...

i think he means a solenoid for each turbo (34 gtr) i thought you just tee'd the two wastegate lines together and used a single solenoid controller. could be wrong though never had twin turbo...

yeah i didn't realise that meant they were un polarized, thanks!

yeh a lot of the posts are from people having problems trying to get around the speed limiter. I'm learning to drift atm so my entry speeds don't need to be as hectic for now. I guess ill hook it up and see if it makes a difference and if not i can always just unplug it again from the gearbox

well from what i can work out apparently the voltage put out from the sender is in AC frequency so its basically un-polarized can any one confirm this? It explains why there the same colour cause it doesn't matter which way they go then so i might just twitch them together so i can swap them around in case it doesn't work...

cant find any more info in the fsm about it though just says you need consult to see if its working but she definitely isnt! lol i took the sensor out of the box and connected a multi meter to both wires and put a drill on the end to spin it and i got a good voltage reading so i know the sensor definitely works as well still doesnt clear up which wire goes to the cluster

ok sure thing that's ok as i have an r33 cluster in the car so it should convert it fine. What i really need to know is which wire is the signal wire coming from the sensor itself as they are the same colour??? and then i found this pic http://s689.photobucket.com/user/rmcallis/media/Speedo%20Corrector/CopyofSpeedo-2RearShowingSignals.jpg.html so once i find which is signal i can put it direct to the back of the cluster to that top left pin? and then run a wire from ECU to top right? then just power and earth and it should work? Apparently FYI this really does effect the car, in the FSM it says that's it restricts your idle and has a fuel cut and stops your vct so its something you definitely want hooked up!!

will be going to a nistune later on

yep, beginner race car

Oh ok sure. Well the post that i was reading was for rb into s13 and they were saying its pretty important,apparently pulls power from your car and has a limiter cut and all that jazz. So i fogured it couldnt hurt to wire it up i just dont know how?

As stated I've realised that my gear box has no wiring what so ever on it and didn't really phase me as i don't care about reverse lights or speedo "cause race car" but found threads saying that the speed sensor wire needs to be hooked up otherwise the ecu tries to cut injectors or something thinking its in neutral? Found the wire in the ecu my question is, can i run a wire straight from the gear box to the ecu and bypass the cluster all together as i don't care about this, but also which wire do you run as both are the same colour coming from the speed sensor? and only one ecu wire? I'm assuming one is an earth then? Any one who does conversions shed some light as this is in a Cefiro and not much info on body looms... thanks!

I've had a small breakthrough, was going back and re checking simple things and was testing my TPS for the voltage and all was good then went on ahead and disconnected it to try and reset my idle. As soon as i disconnected it the car instantly felt better, more responsive the hunting had gone away the revs were steady didn't feel lethargic anymore, plugged it back in back to hunting and miss behaving. 1. Does this indicate that the TPS is buggered even though its giving out the correct voltage? 2. There was only one plug on my s1 loom for the TPS even though there's two ports on the sensor itself and it went in the port that's external to the sensor on a wiring loom? I figured the other one is for diagnostic reasons but i dkno what its supposed to be? 3. Is it bad to yolo this and drive with it disconnected?

another thing to add is that this problem actually disappeared one day without me changing anything except it caused my idle to be so low that when you'd come to a stop the car would stall, as soon as i lifted my idle back up using the screw on the iacv the problem came back and hasn't gone away since. I thought that this meant it was definitely the iacv and i had a spare but no change since swapping and cleaning both.

What am i checking for? resistance voltage ohms? google says you need the consult port to check...

yeh thats my next step when i put on a bigger turbo and all that jazz but its complety stock except for that plenum so it shouldn't be doing this and kinda want it fixed before i do that in case another ecu doesn't fix it and the tuner has to go on a hunting expedition. May be i should borrow another stock ecu before hand (seeing as i cant get the LEDs to flash on this one may be theres something wrong with it?) I just thought they either worked or didn't and not slowly failed...

If you block the inlet and you had a leak wouldn't the engine try and breath through the leak? What I'm trying to do is rule out common things like a vacuum leak if i create one and there's no change to the engine then there might be a leak somewhere else but because it makes it worse then its probably not that. I have pressure tested it as well though and i cant find any leaks unless there tiny as. Switch was probably the wrong word there's your cluster temperature solenoid and next to it is your ecu one and if there faulty your ecu dumps fuel because it thinks its overheating but this usually effects idle as well wheres my car idles fine only gets effected at 2200rpm...

sorry to bring this thread back but i still haven't found the solution to this problem. Iv'e changed the spark plugs to Bcpr6es, I've tried and cleaned two Iacv controllers, swapped out for better coil packs, changed to a different CAS. I'm running out of ideas on this one now I'm thinking it may be the ECU temperature switch that lives in the intake plenum? except i thought this would effect the engine on idle as well as this only happens when you rev the engine..? ECU idle screw is also turned all the way to the left. Can't get ECU to display codes either? I don't think its a boost/vacuum leak as I've blocked off air coming into the turbo and the car stalls and if i unblock an unused vacuum port the car runs like a bag of shit and tries to stall. This effects the engine with load or no load but mainly only in first to second gear third and fourth it doesn't seem to effect it near as much just makes it really painful to take off. Car feels slightly underpowered as well sluggish almost. Here's a vid to better explain it... thanks!