Franko07

its genuine, if its not then theve done a damn good job of copying it as it came with tomei stickers tomei instructions and a box covered in tomei shit and wasnt $40. Either way this is the first tomei product ive bought and were not off to a good start, i just wanted to see if i was setting it correctly and it wasnt some other strange design than others ive used and it looks like its just broken. thanks anyway!

nothing really, but i wanted a gauge so i could check fuel pressure and I have two pretty strong pumps so wanted a larger diaphragm reg and apparently these rising rate ones offer better control over stock. Plus you can get dodgy and make your squirters go harder if you want to...

when i turn the screw all the way down so diaphragm has bottomed out fuel tries to leak out of the casing somewhere on the reg, cant tell where though.... yeh going to return it i think and just put the stock one back on for now.

so i just got this tomei reg and im pretty sure its broke but want to make sure im not being a retard.... 99% sure ive got the fittings in the right way. What happens is when you go to adjust the fuel pressure im taking off the vacuum line and blocking it so the reg thinks its at WOT and then winding the screw in (I'm pretty sure on almost every fps tightening raises the pressure up) but it seems to make the pressure go down then sometimes up then and it fluctuates then going the other way does the same thing and I cant get the pressure to get any where near 3kg/cm2 (43psi) only seems to sit at 2. Attaching the vacuum line doesn't effect the gauge at all and neither does blocking off the FPR vac line...when you rev the car the gauge goes down as well. this sounds to me that the diaphragm inside has a tear in it letting more fuel through than its supposed to. Seeing as when I first started the car I could get 3kg/cm2 but wouldn't go any higher no matter where the screw was now I can only get two seems the longer it goes the bigger the tear is probably getting? I'm sure its not the pumps as I have 040 feeding into 044 and can hear them both on and the car ran fine with stock fpr... any ideas?

yeh id say so as i have the 3 pin clip that attaches to the AFM and when i trace the wires back to the body loom theres only 3 as well. Its a bit hard as this is a conversion and it was already done when I bought the car so its a bit of a head f**k because its a s2 Rb being run through a rb20 loom to a s1 ECU. It was my understanding that the extra wire in the green label AFM Is another earth? From memory (this was a while ago) signal earth and earth were just twitched together to make 1 wire then I just had signal and 12v left.

nah stock ECU atm. Yeah i thought they were a bit hot, thats just what auto one gave me but i always ran 6's and then 7's in my Sr thought may be rb's needed a hotter spark? Might change to a 6 as I want to run 12-13psi for now... do I want a bcpr6 or a bkpr6? one has a longer porcelain but cant remember haha.

So i've had my rb25 cefiro going for a while now everything seems fine until i discovered this little problem *sigh* What happens is if the cars running (warm or cold) you slowly increase the revs from 8-900rpm to 2100-2500 I mean really slowly, it gets to 2200 rpm and then starts hunting like mad and you can continue accelerating pretty much to my foots flat on the floor and wont go over those revs. If I back off completely it idles fine, no hunting, then if I stab the throttle and race the engine it revs fine all the way to redline... I don't even know where to start on this one, seems sensor related. I thought that it might be that my AFM is in the intercooler piping on the throttle body and wasn't getting enough air early on to read properly, so I put it back to where it's supposed to be and it still does it. It is a pink label AFM with a series 1 ECU? Don't know if that matters at all but when I unplug it when cars running it stalls immediately and when I start the car with it unplugged it runs but when you try and rev it, it tries to stall out again, so I'm pretty sure the AFM is doing its thing... I wouldn't be so concerned but when you drive the car and change gears it seems to hit that flat spot when the revs die down and makes it really jerky... Where should I start looking? Mods are basically bone stock s2 rb25 with Freddy plenum 90mm throttle body, bcpr5es sparkplugs s1 turbo. thanks!

Yeah I did this as I blew my s1 head up and only had a s2 replacement. They fit in there fine, have pulled the caps off after running for a while and there's no scoring or anything so I'm going to say thats ok to do that. The CAS is interchangeable as well (I think its the neo's that change?) but you will need s2 coil packs or vice versa as they bolt into the head differently but I think you can get away with changing the cradles instead as only like 2 bolts don't line up...

so I think I found the problem when I bought my car it had already had the wiring converted from rb20 to 25 turns out someone thought they were handy and soldered my CAS wires together by putting them inside straws and Aralditing them together wtf? never seen anything like it! so that's why the noid light was only coming on sometimes as when I was turning the CAS it was just by chance me wiggling the wires they would connect. so she starts now, thanks for the suggestions!

checked AFM dry joints and there fine...

ok so how do I test for this besides getting another one? I cut open almost the whole engine loom today to see if there is a split wire or something but no luck... how do I tell if the ECU is f**ked? There's no light coming on but there's power coming into the ECU and that ECCS relay. I tried twisting the screw inside to the right to see if the flashes would show up but nothing.. would be really helpful if I could get that diagnostic mode to help! would the coil packs fire if the ECU was dead?

id say the CAS is turning as the pin isn't broken off and the coil packs are firing

yeh good idea ill try that tomorrow

Yeah during this I went and plugged in all the clips on the aacv still nothing. Coil packs have heaps of spark there making an arc like 3cm long can hear them all going off as well. It really seems to have something to do with when I spin the CAS by hand, I'm talking quarter of a spin hear a click noid light comes on, makes another click spin the CAS light comes on again. As soon as I try and spin it at some kind of continuous speed the light comes on once then not again but I can hear all the jecies clicking away. It makes no sense as I haven't really changed anything. The click is coming from under the plenum I can hear it echo through it but the only thing there is my knock sensors, aacv, that solenoid thing underneath (which isn't hooked up yet but its on some kind of timed relay, that isn't controlled by the ECU and people just delete it in general) and an oil pressure sender and starter motor. So I dkno if the click is just a start up thing of the aacv to help get the engine going and every time I stop spinning the CAS it thinks the engine is off and everything resets??? ill take a video tomorrow as its hard to explain but its too dark atm..

I just put another hose from my fuel reg into a bottle and in two key on prime ups it filled up a large dare ice coffee bottle 3/4, does this seem like too much? maybe the regs f*ked and not holding pressure enough, still doesn't explain the injectors not pulsing properly...

they all look pretty good, the main ones are the one that's on the plenum near the water neck, then the earth strap one and the fuse box one, then they all seem to come to a brown clip next to the ECU. What actually grounds the ECU, pin number 60 or whatever? I still don't understand how the noid light doesn't come on under cranking but does come on when turning by hand? As if its coming on by hand doesn't that mean the ECU has to be connecting the earths?

its definitely something not telling the injectors to pulse but I don't know what, as all the body relays are clicking they have constant 12v and I can make them click, when I crank the engine I can hear them click as well but when I look in the bores there pretty dry cant see any spray coming out... but that's whats got me stumped as when I turn the CAS by hand everything clicks but it doesn't make the noid light come on, so is that they havnt got enough power coming to them???

yep pumps fuel like a demon. even tried swapping the lines around just to see and it primed for like half the time and still nothing so figured they were on right.

So I'm in the middle of my rb25 into a Cefiro conversion and long story short the bloke before me had a Rb25 already in the car but it blew up. I bought the car put new Rb25 in, the car started, timing belt broke killed a piston and head fixed the engine ready to go again and now it wont fire? Car has good compression. The car cranks fine, it has twin 044 fuel pumps and there both coming on, made sure fuel lines weren't on backwards coil packs have loads of power. It definitely is a fuel problem. Injectors have constant power when I earth them out they click. Put a noid light in and nothing. If I turn the CAS by hand they click and so does the coil packs but the weird thing is if I turn the CAS really slow the noid light comes on but fast it doesn't do anything and when cranking doesn't do anything? When I do turn it slow the light flashes I wait a second and can hear something click under the plenum (only thing under there is the aacv and the weird solenoid thing) then turn it again It flashes again If I don't wait for the click it wont flash... I've swapped the injectors out for another set I've swapped the CAS out I've tried another injector loom, the only time the car has started is when I swapped the injectors the excess fuel in the rail seeped into the bores and the car started until it ran out of fuel. I don't think its a f**ked ECU as the car did start before and it did try and start today, problem is I cant see any L.E.D light on the bottom that people talk about and I cant enter diagnostic mode as its a conversion the Cefiro's don't have the plug that your supposed to bridge to enter it... It is a single light rb25 ecu but it doesn't light up? Pulled the cover off cant see anything burnt in there cant see why it would be cooked as nothing has been shorted out. The only things that are different from the first time is that I put a FFP on and haven't extended the purple plug on the aacv yet as I thought it was useless? I had to extend the AFM wiring so I could put it in the intercooler piping not the turbo intake (as apparently this is better) and the aacv air in pipe isn't hooked up yet (Australia post let me down didn't get my silicone on time) but all of these things should still let the car fire right? It'll just run like balls... I don't know where else to look now, I'm pretty sure its not a broken wire as it would be pretty unlikely to break every single injector earth wire, the only other thing is pin43 (start signal wire) has been cut but it was cut before and still ran and apparently only helps with cold start... any help would be appreciated! thanks!

Kool makes sense to me. So whats the theory behind doing one stud at a time? Wouldnt it be easier to loosen the entire head and put them all in? Seeing as you dont have to take the cams out like sr's or are people trying to do this with coolant still in their engines and dont want it to leak out or something?

While on this subject which is a better way of putting in the arp studs. Is it better to take one out at a time in order of how the fsm says to remove the bolts or the way arp wants you to install them? Or doesnt it matter? In other wards do you put them in from the outside in or the inside out?

No worries thanks for the replies has been helpful!

Thanks for the reply . By the bush do you mean the splined part of the tailshaft? As theres no real bushing as such just the outer seal and the output shaft? The splined part is about three quarters in and the seal actually stops on an old wear mark. May be its the fact that the metal sheild is missing from the outside of the box that makes the shaft look further out than it really is...?

Hi, im currently in the process of putting an rb25 into a cefiro and ive finished mounting the engine and box and am onto the tail shaft. The shaft i believe is the original rb20 shaft and i have pressed out the rb20 yolk and replaced it with the larger 25 one. The one in the picture is out of a VL (what my engine came out of) as the cup sizes are different just using it to mock up for now untill i get a r33 one. What i want to know is if this distance is acceptable? Is there a min max distance for tail shaft float? Its roughly sticking out 25mm before being hard against the box. Car is being used for drifting. Would be a real pain in the ass to have to get a one peice made up for 20mm too short...thanks

that's exactly what I want to hear, so basically as long as I put the intake side buckets on the intake and the exhaust side ones on the exhaust the lifters themselves should take up the slack? I was wondering why I could only find write ups on neos and 26's