dcreech0

Hello again everybody. I wanted to post real quick since i have not in a while. I am in the process of purchasing my first home. Not a whole lot has happened with the car since I last posted. I am having Saikou Michi build me a custom catch can with my build. I have alos been gathering more and more parts to complete the downpipe, Exhaust, and charge piping (thanks to Treadstone and Vibrant Performance). The car will be running a 3.5" downpipe and keep that same size all the way to the rear of the car. I also plan to utilize 3" charge pipes from turbo the intake manifold. I did take the car to my Fab guy, which it is where it sits now to get all this done. I will post updates as he sends them to me..... I can not believe how dirty the car got over the winter in the garage. It was the first time it saw daylight since the BMW motor was pulled.... Here are the first small updates I received from my car away from home.....

Another small update. Actually it was a large key to finishing up the build, but not alot to report. My custom driveshaft came in from Shaftmasters. I decided to go with the aluminum 3 inch variation. I was for sure a tight fit under the car but does fit. Here are a couple pictures for records. Sorry for the crappy pictures under the car. I dont have a lift at my disposal. I tried to get shots of both ends....

Another small update for you all. I finally decided to take some time to tackle the fuel pump. I knew the OEM BMW pump would not support my goals using the 1000cc injectors and planning for around 20psi. I also didn't want to do anything crazy like a standalone fuel cell. I decided to call upon a group called Rally Road that machined and install sleeve to make many after market pumps a drop in affair. I opted to pay a little more money and got the Aeromotive 345lph. I have read these pumps can support pretty big numbers when using 93 octane. Here is what the kit came with..... I didn't get alot of picture when taking it apart, but its pretty straight forward. I was actually surprised how easy it was to remove the rear seat and gain access to the fuel pump assembly. I did take some pictures as I put it back together. I did make sure to shop vac alot of gunk that had built up on top of the assemblies. I also would like to note, I opted to connect the wiring the correct way by soldering and heat shrink the connections. You can see this if you look at the pictures close.

Hello again guys. I received another package in the mail today, this time being from the great guys at Chase bays..... :2f2f: You might be asking, what might this be?...... I chose to purchase an item that seems to be seen as skeptical in the BMW world. I decide to purchase the entire ABS/brake booster delete from this group. A lot of people question this modification due to the effect it will have on braking performance, but Chase Bays claims to have sized the Wilwood Master cylinder just right to not have much difference in braking performance. I decided to go with this modification for the sole purpose of space needed to generate a down pipe for my swap. I also purchased the bias valve and brake lines to make it a complete package.... I also decided to weigh in the difference between the setups just for reference for anyone that may be interested. Along with the space this kit saves, and the visual appearance, It also saves around 16 pounds for those hardcore weight savings people out there.... Pictures for proof..... I have posted pictures previously of what the OEM setup looked like and how crowded it made the drivers side engine bay look. Here is a picture of what that area looks like with the OEM setup taken out. BTW, it was a BI@$% to lay under the dash on the interior and work to remove connections..... I got as far as I could with the install today. I came to a stopping point as the package i received from Chase Bays did not include a small bracket that it should have so that I could connect the Bias valve to the master cylinder. So I only got a chance to mount the booster delete plate and the master cylinder today. The kit i purchased also came with a new feed hose for the OEM clutch master cylinder. I decided to use the OEM feed line as it fit perfect on the bulkhead fitting i attached to the Wilwood reservoir. I also came to this conclusion due to having to remove the entire pedal assembly just to get to the clutch master cylinder. A lot of work saved just by using the OEM feed line. Anyway, here are some pictures....

Another very small update for you all this past weekend. I have not been able to make a ton of good progress due to unfortunately coming down with an illness, and waiting on some packages. I did get a Small package from Japan though. Nothing that was a huge surprise, but still took forever to get here. When I bought my swap, it came with a set of Splitfire coilpacks. I was pretty pumped as it was a surprise under the coil cover. upon inspection though, I found that one of the shit out its guts and was of no use. This left me with 5 that were still usable. there were only a couple companies that sold a single pack and cost an arm and a leg, but didnt see another option, unless I wanted to go back to 20 year old OEM coils. I also decided to take the time to put fresh NGK sparkplugs in. I went to a plug that was one step colder for future goals..... Will update again once packages start arriving this week.

Hello again all. Long time no see. Today was one of those days for me that I am sure we all have had. Ever had one of those work days where you are in the garage all day, but you feel like you got not much done at all? In all reality, alot got done, but not as much as I had wanted. I decided to spend some time on the fuel lines. I went back and forth on the idea of keeping rubber fuel lines, with barbed fitting on the rail and the FPR. At the end of the day, I decided to go with stainless braided lines due to the Sard rail coming with 6an fittings, and the Fuelab filter having -6an fittings on the ends. So then I came to the problem of how and at what point I should convert from the hardlines to the braided lines. On previous builds I cut, and double flared the hardline to convert. I have read now there are compression fitting for this job. I decided to give them a shot. Worst case would be to take them off if they do not work, then flare the old way. Will start the picture by showing what I started with.... And here is the OEM BMW FPR set up..... Here is a side by side of the OEM filter and the Fuelab..... Here is the first compression fitting I attempted to install. Keep in mind the picture does not show the finished product. I will still find a way to mount the line in the OEM bracket..... I didnt have much time to run the return line from the regulator. I actually realized that I was missing one more fitting. I need one more -6an hose union to finish the fuel return..... but will show off the lines i did have time to assemble I will post one more engine bay picture for good measure:angel:

Ok, I had just a little time to work on the car this weekend. I decided to tackle the oil cooler issue. I listed in a previous thread the parts I was planning on using, but had spent that last week or so deciding where to mount the remote filter mount and where to mount the remote thermostat block. I bought most of the goods from Summit Racing, and chose the brand of Vibrant racing for the fitting and hoses. After dealing with these and Fragola, I would have to say that the Fragola was easier to assemble. After mounting the filter mount, I had to go find a filter that was a good fit for it. I brought the Earls part with me to walmart and tried many different filters, but ended up going with the K&N PS1002. I know that i will have to drop the oil and change this filter after running the motor for the first time. Anyway, On to a couple pictures. The black lines are a little tough to see, but I think you will get the point.... I also spent just a little time trying a location for the FPR and ran my first line from the rail. I ran out of daylight and had to stop before making any more progress....

Last couple updates for you all. I took some time to get the turbo mounted where it is going to be. Man will it be a tight squeeze, but i think I can make it work. I am leaning towards purchasing the Chase Bays ABS delete, and maybe the booster delete from them as well to make more room for the downpipe. I also spent some time finding a solution to mounting the oil cooler. I knew i was going to put it in the kidney bean grills, and ended up just bolting it down to the bumper beam. I will post a picture to explain. I'm not sure of how to route the lines though as it is a tight fit in there. The whole oil cooler set up consists of Earls spin on adapter, Earls Billet remote filter mount, Earls remote oil thermostat, and a Mocal 10 row oil cooler. I also found a local group here to me that does some nice work. I will let the pictures speak for themselves on the before and after... I also received a nice package from Wiring Specialties. They are also a nice group of guys that do good work...

Next up was to decide what route I was going to take with the forced induction department. I decided that going to a larger single may be the way to go to utilize the space I have and to take full advantage of the motor that I have built from top to bottom to handle a fair amount of boost. For the manifold, I turned to the guys over at DOC RACE to churn out a beautiful manifold for me. These pieces really are works of art. They hand weld all of their units and hand port them before shipping them out to customers. I decided to go with a single scroll with a Tial MVR wastegate flange. On a side note, I found a good deal on a Tial MVR and Tial blow off valve. I emailed back and forth with Tial and confirmed they were authentic. On to some pictures. for the turbo, after much debate and searching I decided to settle on a brand new Precision 6766 with the posted H cover. I was surprised on how massive this thing was when i first held it in person..... I will put up a picture of the turbo by my daughter for reference. LOL The intercooler, I decided to choose the Treadstone TR1235. I read many good things about this unit, and it actually is a very stout unit for the money. Very well built. The end tanks even have a baffle to divert air evenly throughout the core.... Fueling..... So far I have collected parts to include a Sard billet fuel rail, Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and a Fuelab pressure gauge.... I am still debating on what route to take with the fuel pumps. I plan on making custom stainless steel braided lines. Here are some pictures.....

From here i was very quick to start pulling the BMW's drivetrain and came out with this..... I also took this time to mate up my Spec stage 3 clutch the Raw Brokerage provided me. I also took my RB25det Transmission to a local shop here and had the dis-assemble and inspect. I was very relieved to hear that all was good to go internally. they actually told me they were quite surprised on how clean it was inside. I will also attach a picture of the first time I mated the tranny to the motor.... more later..... thanks for viewing - - - Updated - - - sooooooo, on my first attempt on placing the motor into its new home, I learned a few things that may need some minor tweaking. So when i mentioned earlier that i was planning a minor build, this eventually turned into this built motor idea, so of course we need more boost correct? lol. I decided to pick up a set of Greddy T517z's off an R32 in Australia. Man were these thing beautiful.... not to mention they have a $3000 plus price tag new...... not all good things can be true though. I soon found out that these turbos would not work. First issue was that the mounts I planned on using was made for the oem size turbos and not a larger frame like the Greddy units. Once I tried to install the mounts, I found they came in contact with the exhaust housing and does not allows the mount arms to mount to the motor.... sad times. so back to the drawing board in the forced induction side of things......... I decided it may be time to consider going to a large single - - - Updated - - - While cleaning up my tears on the turbo issues, I decided to make my first test run of installing the motor/tranny and moving forward from there. After the first attempt to install, It was not easy by any means. for some reason I could not get any of the holes to line up to where i was comfortable. I eventually decided to ditch the rubber mounts that came with the Dryden kit and source my own. I think that another member on this forum doing an RB25 swap had the same issues and correct the issue himself, so i decided to follow suit. I found myself be be highly resourceful and made a set of 240sx poly mounts made by Circuit Sport work perfectly. i will also use this post to explain how i made the power steering and the cooler work with this swap. I decided to use a Chasebays power steering reservoir, Earl's pwer steering braided lines, and found the perfect cooler made by Derale that mounted in the OEM location and had -6an fittings. I also had to use a couple an adaptors on the steering rack as well, but was very happy with the outcome.... - - - Updated - - - my next puzzle that I decided to tackle was going to be the radiator issue. The OEM BMW radiator caused its own set of issues. First issue was going to be the inlet was on the incorrect side for the RB motor. The second issue was how the OEM radiator mounted left ZERO clearance with the PS pump. They physically touched. From here, I knew that i would going to have to be resourceful on picking a radiator and tuck it under the radiator support. I decided to take a Mishimoto unit from an S14 and making my own brackets. I had to grind down the frame horns, and trim up the radiator support a little, but came out with this. I will attempt to get a picture soon of the clearance this game me and update this post

Hello fellow members. I am starting this thread to share and document my experience i have had and will have with this project of mine. After many other project cars in my past such as a Lotus Elise, Lotus Exige, Dodge viper, and Noble M400, I wanted to get my hands back on something that i could be a little more involved in. I enjoy tinkering and modifying cars of mine, and had the want to start a project that was unique and more challenging than the typical. I'm sure its safe to say that a lot of people on here have the same love and desire to own an authentic GTR at some point in out lives. I decided to look around at the different options to swap an RB26, but as said before, didnt want to take the typical route of swapping an s13/s14/datsun cars. While on this search, I stumbled across a group named Dryden Motorsports that made a mount kit for the European E36 chassis and the RB26dett motor set. I picked up this kit first and then started my search of the perfect donor car for a new heart. Before too long, I came across a 1999 M3 in Nashville Tennessee that i felt like I could not pass up. Alot of people said that spending the extra money to get a true M3 would be a waste of money as the sedan or more basic coupes could be had for a fraction of the price. This car just spoke to me though as it had little modifications and made a perfect blank canvas to start my journey. Without further a due, here is a couple pictures of the car as it was when i bought it and drove it back home to Kentucky.... I dont have many pictures of how it started, but you get the idea... I also had the RB26 motor set shipped to me along with the mount kit and custom sump sitting and waiting for me when i got home with the car. here is a quick shot just for record as well..... As i started I started to plan out my plan of action, I first convinced myself that I just wanted to freshen up the motor with oem parts and run the stock twins at stock boost. Then of course the modifying bug bit me. I convinced myself that I may as well go balls out and do as much as I can, and should ever want to while the motor was out. After considering all options and contacting many different shops to handle the build of the longblock, I decided to trust the guys at Raw Brokerage with the build. I sent them my long block along with a mess of goods to include: Wiseco Forged pistons, Manley H-beam, ACL rod/main bearings, ARP rod bolts, ARP main studs, ARP head studs, Nitto crank extended crank collar, N1 oil pump, OEM water pump, Tomei MLS headgasket, Tomei Oil restrictor, Greddy timing belt and new tensioner/idler. Along with this I sent a complete OEM gasket set. They worked their magic and did all the machine work to include the stage one short block, and the Stage one cylinder head. They bolted the long block back together to torque spec and i received this piece of art back on a pallet via UPS.... and here is the motor after i got to work installing the intake plenum back on, along with having the oem manifold sand blasted to a clean cast look.... I will leave this post with a quick shot of the mounts that i received from Dryden Motorsports I will continue to update this thread with my endeavors.....

Bump this to the top. Still for sale as of now

United States 40601 zip code

Have these as a set of extra. Still BNIB in factory plastic wrap. Would like to get $210usd for them plus shipping.

Pm sent!!!! Please reply

As the title states. I bought a swap with a set of splitfires installed to include one that was fried and dead. I need to find a way to acquire just one to replace the dud without buying a whole set. Any body have a spare? Please email dewey.creech@gmail.com.

These are still for sale. Will take $75 usd plus shipping

These have sold. Please lock

Dropping price to $1000 usd plus shipping. Need to move them.

I will take the coil packs if you will ship to the states

Still have these for sale. Would be willing to take $1100 usd for them plus shipping. Need to get them moved. Going single turbo.

These are still for sale

To the top on this. Still not sold

Replied to your pm. Thanks!!!

These are a pair of genuine Greddy turbos made specifically for the RB26 motor. The are beautiful and have no shaftplay whatsoever. The previous owner put around 7500 miles on them. I bought them with intentions to use them in my E36 M3 RB26 project. Come to find out, due to the larger frame these turbos use, they will not work with the custom mounts I had made. It is a known problem that the oem Rb turbos use ceramic exhaust wheels that are prone to break when used at over 12 psi. These will remedy this issue and allow much more boost to used I would like to get $1200 for these plus shipping and PayPal. I think that's a steal since they don't come up too often and the charges close to 3grand.