BOOSTA

Wow, Lol the lack of thinking of some people these days..it scares me! And to think he is behind the wheel of a car aswell! CP Pistons are shit? Crap i better go let a rb30/26 owner know that his 1154rwhp engine has crap pistons in it Same goes for a bunch of well known GTR's and i should also call Titan and let them know that all there 2000hp supra race engines are shit aswell Lol next thing you know, someone will tell me that HKS and Jun are made in Taiwan, If you have a 1500hp engine goal, you don't use a set of forged pistons designed for a 800hp engine. You get a set of pistons made to suit that application so you get the absolute best out of your engine combination and the pistons. You open yourself up to various materials, Billet pistons, lightened pistons, thicker pin bosses, x-forgings, lateral gas ports, anti detonation grooves, anodizing ring grooves, skirts coatings, custom ring sets theres so much that can be done to a set of pistons. P.S: Nitto is a great brand and has some quality products! Trent wouldn't sell and promote a product if it couldn't live up to his expectations. Cheers Pete

He has about 0 chance of getting his money back from yourself and getting your mechanic to fix the problem. A RWC is very very limited in what you need to check for. Brake pads only have to have X amount of thickness, same for rotors etc. Oil leaks cannot be visible at time of inspection (do you know how easy it is to degrease & Wash engine, get inspected and pass) And the RWC Inspector cannot fail the vehicle, same for rust, paint over or bog rust and it cannot be failed (It must be visable) I would never trust a roadworthy it says nothing about a vehicles condition other then it meets the minimum requirements which is very minimal! I used to work for a major company doing roadworthies and its scary what can get through if you go by the book! We used to make people fix dodgy items that had tried to be hidden for the inspection etc... As it's more of your reputation you are protecting, not a legal issue. Only times i have seen a company get done for a dodgy roadworthy, was a car was passed with visible rust in the chassis and rotors no thicker then a pencil. And issues that couldn't of been changed or altered. Hell the car could have a leaking head gasket and still pass roadworthy! Most inspectors will turn around and say (especially months later) that the vehicle wasn't in that condition when inspected and then it must be proven it was which is bloody impossible for oil leaks or electrical failures, mechanical failures etc My rule of thumb was always get a vehicle inspected by a performance workshop or trusted mechanic (Comp test and leak down tests are a must) Cheers BOOSTA

Hey Martin, Yeah we have been talking with darton alot... we will have a set very soon hopefully. We have 2-3weeks to get custom cp pistons & carrillo rods made. It will be a fun few weeks Cheers BOOSTA

Is there any links, information about them? any technical specs? Any help is greatly appreciated? Thankyou BOOSTA (Peter)

Need help very quickly... I have a client chasing aftermarket sleeves for a R35 GTR engine (VR38DETT) its for a R35 GTR race car with custom pistons and rods. Does anyone know who does them, as DARTON cant make sleeves for them until april If anyone knows who to contact overseas? as we need these desperately for a client? Thankyou BOOSTA (Peter)

Lol... thankyou for the fix! Just to show i'm not joking... i found a R32 GTR Aussie Delivered for sale... R32 GTR Australian Delivered Note the $65'000 price tag

Kujotk when you find a original aussie delivered R32 GTR in decent nick, for 20-25grand.... i'll turn into godzilla and start blowing flames out my ass. A genuine R32 GTR aussie delivered is about the $50k mark as the last one I saw was $48'000.00 They are quite rare not many delivered and yes plenty of people pay that money for them!..... Please don't tell me you think a Bathurst R32 GTR is cheap.... you will not get any change from $500'000 and thats a fact, thats if u could even buy one! One of the original R31 GTSR's that raced at Bathurst etc is for sale for $210'000 at the moment. And yes people also pay that price aswell! The R35 GTR is a supercar and is also right to have the awards it has acclaimed. Sure nissan could of gone crazy but don't forget it must find a happy medium for alot of drivers. It costs half what a porsche or lamborghini costs and not only holds it's own but flips the opposition the bird aswell. Anyone who owns a supercar is after a certain type of vehicle, ferrari owners love the association, lamborghini owners love the passion, etc etc Not everyone is suited to a R35 GTR, but not everyone is supposed to be! Thats the whole point.... its exclusive, it can be a right pain in the ass, they cost more to look after then ur house! I'm sorry but its not a R34 GTR and never will be, this skyline is in a new league and many many professional car critics and journalists agree. You may not like the way it has got there and may not like the lines etc etc, but its numbers and times speak for itself Everyone has a opinion about cars sure... but the R35 GTR is a supercar and a pretty great first attempt at that! P.S it won't be long before manuals become extinct! *** Congrats on the purchase of such a awesome vehicle.... I have heard many great things about GT2's and never seen a dissapointed owner! ***

Hmmm I'm glad that for a track day it will only cost me around $80 for fuel.... Think of the guys who are paying $280 odd dollars for 20litres of Roo 16 When you look at that price you start to think.... hmmm my car is cheap

A HSV WH Grange with the 300kw engine has some ridiculous torque at around the 60-80kph speed... My dad has stomped on it moving onto a highway onramp, I got sucked back into the seat and saw 140kph very quickly! It just squats and takes off no traction issues at all! Its very quick from lights aswell.... at the time of production, although being the heaviest HSV it was also the 2nd quickest in the fleet, second only to the GTS The auto gearbox on the grange has alot to do with it tho.... especially quick with shifting through the gears very fast!

Hey Guys, I work for the Australian distributor of CP Pistons... If anyone has any questions about CP Pistons.... let me know and i'll do my best to answer them! Cheers Peter

I work for someone who sells both balancers.... I have seen both balancers countless times and I would have to say ATI is the better finished / made balancer, it looks and feels like a much better quality balancer! Ati have the ability to tune one of there balancers to suit your needs There are different grades of elasotmer material ATI will use on the balancer depending on the application or engine speeds. you can call them and figure out which one suits your needs. Plus.... I haven't seen any Ati balancers come apart yet! This is one place where the saying is true.... you pay for what you get! Theres a big reason every NASCAR team uses a Ati balancer for there engines and its got nothing to do with sponsorship deals or pricing. They all pay for the Ati dampers in the engines and use them because they last and handle high RPM and HP Cheers BOOSTA

I have a small sleeper at the moment... Its a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Ce Coupe with a Evo 5 or 6? engine and gearbox in it.... It has a small style lukey muffer at the rear (std style tip) Front mount (Black painted) is small and it sits behind the std front bar easily.. It looks very standard and only has 15" rims... Its a load of fun in the dry except for in the WET! then its scary and no fun at all.. The look you get from a v8 owner when you not only keep up with him but let him here the external gate going off as you start to pull away!

Hey Guys, Thankyou for the help and tons of information... The only thing bothering me about the RB25det swap is what needs to be done to get it all working... Custom tailshaft? Custom speedo sensor? What else does need to be swapped? I will be doing all the work myself as time isn't a problem at the moment! Cheers BOOSTA (Pete)

Hey Col... Thankyou for the reply! I shall give asian auto spares a call and find out what they can do. Thanks BOOSTA (Pete)

Hey Everyone, I know topics like this have been asked and I have searched but after personal experiences... I am really stuck as to what company to use for getting a good condition low/k front cut or just engine for my car! I have a Nissan Skyline R32 GTST (1989) RB20DET (Silvertop) I would like to know who has actually used a 2nd hand Low'k Engine from a wrecker/reco place? What company did you use? How was the company to deal with? Did the engine come with a compression/leak down test? What was the condition of the engine/front cut? clean?, any aftermarket parts? Is your engine still going, and had any drama's? I will be buying a new water pump, timing belt, possible gasket kit... Any help would be greatly appreciated Thankyou Peter (BOOSTA)

Completely agree with URAS... Just had the Rep from Greddy Oceania in our buisness yesterday aswell discussing deals and he confirmed the govt is going to be helping keep the company going and get it back on track. So all is not lost and seems that things will be back to normal soon! Cheers Pete (BOOSTA)

How many people have bought engines from any of the wreckers above? I have a R32 GTST Nissan Skyline it currently has 24psi oil pressure hot and cold... and a nasty missfire which could possibly be a blown head gasket. I'm looking at getting a low k's Rb20det as its just a swap over job but i want a engine that will last more then 3months. Anyone who has bought a engine through the wreckers... what condition did it come in (pressure tested, leak tested)? what did you pay? where from? Thankyou for any help.... as i would like to know the best places to try for parts and the engine aswell. Pete (BOOSTA)

bubba, how long did the conversion take you to do? I have to make sure if I do a bigger swap that I can legally get the relevant mod plates for it aswell...

R32Abuser, Thankyou for the informed response its great to see answers like yours as it gives me serious food for thoughts on what to do with the engine of choice. I always thought the Rb30 route was a $6000k + job but i am very wrong. What ecu did you use with the Rb30/25? Cheers BOOSTA

Hey Guys, Thankyou for the great replies, Basically with the way police are and not aimming for big hp I think I have afew options, My main problem is I don't have a huge amount of time on my hands... I do have an engine hoist, and more tools the workshop I used to work for (things like a compressor, snapon impact gun, 3/8 air ratchet)... I'm not after huge power 200-220rwkw on high boost and around 190rwkw on lowish boost for daily driving. I just want a abit of grunt but nothing crazy as the car will be used for daily driving and also wanting to keep the attention off me aswell. It will get maybe a few track days, maybe a run down the strip and to the skid pan.... But also drivable enough that the missus can have a drive aswell. I just wanted opinions on people who have done various swaps to see what differences they made, how the car drives and cost of the swaps from there eyes. I think im leaning towards either an RB20det swap with a low km engine and a few performance touches or a stock Rb25det... I just don't know which one i want yet as either engine is fantastic to drive. Cheers Pete (BOOSTA)

Thanks for the replys.... Yeah the reason for asking for opinions is I really don't know which way to turn, I need a new motor so either way the old Rb20det will be getting replaced with a low k rb20 or rb25. I have a daily driver car so the skyline is my weekend toy, I'll be buying a proper front cut so whether its a rb20 or rb25 doesnt bother me... I have thought about a RB30DET but didn't think my budget would cover a proper swap for a rb30det.... I just haven't had any experience with a rb25det swap into the r32 (especially cost wise) I just want to hear everyones opinion on there choices and why? good points and the bad points! Theres alot of knowledgable people in these forums so I'm asking to hear all opinions (the budget is $6000), I have driven afew different skylines and understand the 25 to have much better torque down low but having said that I also love the revy nature of a rb20 aswell. Thankyou BOOSTA (Pete)

Okay I have been a long time member of SAU since the beginning... I have a dilemma, my old Rb20det has very low oil pressure (21psi hot & cold) and has a miss (sounds like a rev limiter but at 2'000rpm) I have the car parked up at the moment, as I have been rubbing back the old paint job and getting it ready for a respray (Matt or Satin Black with alot of clear coat over it) The question I have is..... I have $9000 to have the car sprayed and also running again. $3000 for the respray (and they are going to fix my leaking sunroof aswell) $6000 left to play with...... with the money I have left whats a better option? do a Rb25det swap or throw in another Rb20det and throw some mods at it. I would like to hear from people who have actually spent the money on both options, Has anyone had a workshop in Brisbane do the conversion? what did it cost? Thankyou for any options BOOSTA

Nope its a standard ecu, standard everything except a cat back exhaust! I have a bad feeling that the engine is stuffed.... maybe

Well huge thanks for the replies..... QWK32 sounds like your dead on the money. about 4mnths ago when i was an apprentice for a mechanical / tyre company one of the mechanics checked my timing belt out etc... It looks like he didnt recheck my timming out once he put the cas back on..... i just bought a timing light and what would you know 25 degree's advanced! Does this mean that basically my engine is stuffed? I just put the timing back to the standard 15! as the workshop manual states! It now pops on acceleration and the miss is 20times worse, it feels like a limiter kind of... i mean like 1000rpm to 2000rpm I just took it for a slow drive around the block and im too worried about driving it anywhere now! Thankyou Peter

R32 GTST 1989 (Nissan Skyline) As of last week my RB20DET has finally started to show signs of its age.... I need help to find out what i need to do? My car has started to pop / backfire all the time during acceleration and also during decelleration and i mean every time i change gears it pops / backfires! Also now my cars Exhaust Temp Sensor on the dash has started to flick on and off during random drives.... And now finally my car is starting to backfire and miss aswell! What the hell do i do and where do i start as all of this is really making me feel like its all too much, I don't have much tools apart from basic spanners etc Any help or advise would really help me out Thankyou Peter (BOOSTA)