AlexCim

10 pound is the safe i run 7 or 10 Where abouts is this stagea going to? Melbourne by any chance?

BUMP PRICE DROP ---> $400!! Good quality japanese brand name exhaust here... feel the power!

Interesting, do you think this was a factory way to do it, or do you think that this is a bypass worked out by someone. By that i also mean, could it damage the driveline in a way? Also, where is this air evacuation connector?

why you selling man?!?! NOOO!

Got my new o2 today! YAY (original nissan from jp) Will go ahead and do the swap this weekend, saturday morning. Will do spark plugs at the same time. Ill take photos while i do it and do a little write up for everyone...its original so its litterally screw out - screw in. Anyway, ill post back saturday night, Alex

Interested, i would love it if you can make the scoop and plate in one. Right now i have just a scoop, but it looks ugly additionally, i would want it to be done in black (or can i just spray paint it??)

I agree completely. The reason i said what i said is because i dont really have a power target. I mean, i want ~200 as well, but i know that i will get there and .. well want more, so i am just warning that if you are like me, dont restrict yourself from the start.

When i was a bit younger, about 1 year ago, i was always looking at the guys who put only brandname stuff on their car and thinking to myself "why the hell for, you can get cheaper same stuff" what i have learnt is that if your doing to do something, DO IT PROPERLY. Get a good quality, jap exhaust Get a good quality cooler Do the turbo right from the start Get decent tyres Do handling mods For this reasons, i have spent (yes, kill me dammit) ~2100 just on my exhaust from turbo back... Just thought i would make a point that when trying to improve a car, cheapest isnt always the best. Often cheapest will also top out and need replacing (such as maybe an intercooler) Good luck with your plans.

I know exactly what your talking about. What i know of is that people pull the fuse for a few reasons. Burnouts, dyno runs etc. Things where the front wheels dont move at all. I dont want to do things like that, i still want to drive around normally with the front wheels spinning, just no/miniumal power to them. The way i see it, there should be no wear on the central diff. As for the controller, i know of it. TS Dancer its called, but it still doesnt transfer 0:100. I was thinking that pulling the relay would be a cheaper way to get close to 5:95, but i just want to know if anyone KNOWS it will damage the car in any way?

Just wondering, the relay in the bonnet for the "4wd" is that the one that essentially controls the transfer of the power to the front wheels? I dont want to pull the fuse to dyno/burnouts or anything, i just prefer a car with more bias to the rear. I dont always want to be 2wd, 4wd is handy. I understand that there will always be residual pressure in the front wheels, but, if i am just using the car normal street driving with the relay pulled, would that damage my central diff? Another question, and i know this might sound stupid, but what is involved in permenently making my stagea 2wd? Meaning, is it difficult to totally remove the front drive line/central diff? If i do cut power to the front, via the relay, will have help remove understeer under power when going around corners? Thanks for any help.

It would be nice if you could pull off the cover of the surround and give us a look down there. Also if you get the car on the hoist, urm...driveshaft, gearbox mounts etc

Seriously man, dont cheap out on an intercooler Try and find yourself a single Blitz or Trust cooler, then mount it yourself and then get custom piping made The issue with the stagea is the front support bar (behind the grey area of front bar) and that grey area. If you get a FMIC, you will need to, or at least want to, cut quite a bit of your front bar out to give it more flow. When i do it, i am going to consider mounting my cooler a little lower then what would be normal, and then move my numberplate up (put it to the side or remove it all together) and cut out parts of my front bar. BTW, there is not TOO much wrong with chinese coolers ... until you want decent flow, so dont expect like, 250awkw with a chinese cooler.

For some reason, the bolt in my ECU plug has had its head snapped off.... is it time for me to dremel the bastard out (something i am not happy to think about with all those wires there...)

After replacing the o2, how should i go about resetting my ECU?

So, maybe i should look into some new coilpacks for my stagea? i want to cover everything to improve fuel economy... Currently about to be put in: -bos front/dump 3 inch split -4inch stainless cat -spark plugs -DFA -o2 Now, should i consider getting -coilpacks -injectors unsonically cleaned? As a reference, i do about 800 or so km a week (meaning, 150$ petrol bill)

Got prices, "We have worked out the price for the set which will include 8 Stainless Braided Brake Hoses ADR Approved 4 Banjo Bolts 8 Copper Washers Retail $465.00" Here are some pictures of them installed on my car. Front has two parts the it. The small std hose with steel tube was replaced with a new hose. Fronts Rear I honestly reccomend the upgrade for anyone.

Cant be sure of it because i havnt tried, but for what i remember having read they are almost perfect, just need to be shortened just a tad.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84025&hl= I understand this is the wrong forum, but im posting here because i would rather see this exhaust go to a good home, rather then it sit eternally in my backyard as the "for sale" ad is engulfed by skyline stuff.

Got this custom catback made for my car 2 weeks ago. I have had to remove it due to parents still owning most of my car...aka, they have control... I paid 590 brand new, Xforce muffler, Silencer included. Has a nice note to it when its revving its tits off. 3 inch mandrel bent mild steel, painted in black. Resonator installed. VGC Will definatly post interstate, about 20kg weight and volumetric weight...like, $30-40 to east coast. Im in melbourne. Alex Asking: $450

Price drop, $425. Cmon people, this is your chance to own a great quality exhaust at a pretty damn cheap price!

Hi, They made a copy of the new ones for themselves to sell. They will just mail them to you You dont need to drive there. i kept my old rubbers ones though...you know, just in case

www.maltech.com.au I watched them make the hoses in front of me. They are ADR approved and all tested to 3500psi on this machine thing. (pretty cool to watch) I had to drive 2 hours and 200km to get to the guys....pissed my girl off quite bad...but it was worth it in the end. Next thing for me, discs and pads. Im longing for some power mods, but stupid shipping from japan takes too long

On friday i drove down to where Maltech are and i got some custom made SS braided brake lines. Being the first with the stagea there, i was a guiny pig and it took a little longer then expecteed. The fronts are almost identical to R33 GTR lines, but there is an extra hose that is needed for the Stagea. The rear lines are completely unique to make. I have to admit i was a little skeptical of it at first, but once i drove off for the first time, i noticed that teh ABS under soft braking was locking up on the same dirt road i came in on. Driving on the fwy back home, i did some braking tests. The difference is quite amazing. The biggest improvement was in the precision of the brakes. Before, where i was in D i could either slip the brakes till the car would move or for it to be stopped. Now, the brakes can slip a tiny bit, a bit more and bit bit more... big difference to me. Additionally, they are not too hard to install. I was watching the guys do them, if i was buying a kit i dont think i could call it a hard job, not SIMPLE though (need to know something about brakes) Anyway, i am not sure what price they will release the kits at, but for the moeny, i think its really worth it. The difference between lines and pads are that the lines are there forever, a never wearing performance upgrade (ie, dont replace them like better pads or rotors)

What makes you assume it will fit? I bought a 2nd hand catback exhaust for a R33 GTST...guess what...it didnt fit (regardless of what everyone is saying about them fitting)

I was considering to buy a genuine Bosch 040 or 044 fuel pump, but my question is are these compatible with Stageas? Is the 044 an external pump? Where would i mount it? I would plan to do it myself, or would it be best to get someone to install it for me? Thanks anyone, Also, should i consider a fuel pressure regulator? OBX or Sard type of a thing..