AlexCim

Eastside meet spot Winding roads 9pm meet PM me for location or SMS 0439 909 610

Daniel, vented gaurds? How?

The way cut cars work from japan are - You buy a whole car - Everything of value is removed from the rear half - Car is cut in half to save space in the container, all your parts from the rear are included with the front cut.

I am just about to tune the EBC, DFA, SITC all together to make me ~200awkw. At the moment, I have the EBC already in, tuned to run about 13psi. The DFA will make its way in within the next two weeks, the same with the SITC. My question is as follows: At current, my EBC is set to 13psi, which is what I normally run during the day, BUT, some nights it will go all the way up to 15-16psi. This is on nights when its really really cold and im in the mountains (not just hills). So, leading on from that, would you suggest I use an EBC that is more able to "measure" boost, and hold accordingly, such as a ProfecB or something? Or, if I get the car tuned with the EBC/DFA/SITC it shouldnt matter if my boost increases 1-2psi at night? Mods: Full exhaust, TRUST front mount, GCG highflow.

I was blowing a certain resistor too, replaced it and then found it was stuck on load point 64. I blew another EBC too when i found it was switching between H/L too slowly that caused it.

I personally like the S2 fronts and if you are going to keep it stock, id go for an S2. If you are not going to bother to modify it either, id go for the S2 tiptronic as the manual is nice, but only if you want to "drive" it a bit beyond regular driving. As far as making crazy power, the R33 engine will make better power than the NEO's (talking 250kw+) due to the head/cam setup.

We shall tonight kim, we shall tonight On another note, last night was 1 guy working, 5 guys as the supporting crew!

No flare at all, its great isnt it! I had to back off by 2->3 shifts as I was going fast... Edit by Ska: Alex tsk tsk tsk

Got a few videos, some are quite shakey but thats coz of you SK and you kit, and a few are shakey on gear changes....thanks MV Some are WOT, some are normal driving. Obviously the revving in the background will tell you what is what http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEBcaneDUZg No offence to the guys with Skylines posting up in this thread, but I made the thread in the Stagea section for two particular reasons. We have heavy cars and we have 4wd cars. For this reason, I wouldnt compare the performance of a shift kit on a skyline to one on a Stagea.. sorry if that sounds rude but you understand I'm sure. Comparing the shifts to the stock one is not possible. The stock shifts are just so damn slow, mine used to rev freely for about 1-2 seconds before it grabbed 2nd. Now as you can see in the videos its almost instant. I HIGHLY reccomend the upgrade to anyone with a Stagea. The chirpies are coming from the front wheels too, not the rear. Cost was $440 delivered including a service kit (new sump gasket and filter). The VB was 350, shipping 30, service kit 30 and GST on top (Yes, shifty bugger qouting GST free)......definatly worth it though. Honestly. As far as the install, I will do a write up next week for everyone, the instructions that Mike gave were borderline, but I managed to guess it through I also find the auto goes through gears a HEAP more. Its always going between 3rd and fourth now, and its really quick too. I find it locks the converter up more easily now too. I can get lock up at 60kph and push just a slight bit of boost (around 0psi-1psi). Kick downs improved a lot and the throttle response from the gearbox has improved greatly too. I plant my foot, off i go. No more, plant, slip, slip, slip, kinda grab, go. The job took me 4h, that was ciggie breaks, scratching my head breaks, waiting for my mate to come around mid way through breaks etc. I could now do it in about 2-2.5h flat out. Maybe even less. DEFINATLY less with a hoist

Back in 1 h, will go for a drive and take a video of the tacho

Works a treat! Chirps 1->2 shifts on smooth concrete. Much tighter gear changes. Hardly noticable slight clunks when taking it easy. Shifts are almost instant. Will keep you all posted how the shifts work when I take it to the strip, but definatly a worthwhile upgrade for the automatic transmission. I did it at home on jack stands, pisses fluid all over the place and there are so many damn bolts holding in the valve body.

See guys, thats impressive, but, my car's 4wd Image the ammount of dirt you have, x2 after dirt/mud donuts...haha. The roof was the worst

My stock actuator is set to 6-7psi As far as the 1 bar actuators, thats R32 actuators on R33 turbos.

Actuator could be leaking? Just keep using bigger and bigger vents.

DUDE, thats gonna be one TOUGH race!!!

Actually any aftermarket HID conversion is illegal unless factory optioned lights are used (AKA, installing S2 XENONs in a car without XENONs). This is at the reflection pattern of a halogen light is different to HID systems.

If you want to see a V35, I can give you the phone number of my mate who has one. He lives in Narre Warren

Heres a question. My stock ECU takes 13-15psi without hitting R&R, but some of my friends said theyve heard a bit of pinging when on full boost/high load (140km/h etc etc) When I check my injector duty on my IEBC, it doesnt go over 54-55 out of 64, the question is, if my injectors arnt maxing out (which I assume is load point 64) can I still get heavy knocking with a stock ECU? 13psi full non split exhaust, 3 inch, very flowy GCG high flow TRUST (SK ) GTR FMIC El cheapo POD

shut up kim, aka, starionturbo

Vic breaks ADR's with 3km/h leanience on speed cameras, as opposed to 10% Damn labour governments at a state level

One way action, as per the guys with LS400's that do it. You crack the glass out, its done, thats it.

"First I'll give you the wrong explanation, which you can find here and there. It goes something like this. As everyone knows, scattering (by anything!) is always greater at the shortwavelength end of the visible spectrum than at the longwavelength end. son of rajab Rayleigh showed this, didn't he? Thus to obtain the greatest penentration of light through fog, you should use the longest wavelength possible. Red is obviously unsuitable because it is used for stop lights. So you compromise and use yellow instead. This explanation is flawed for more than one reason. Fog droplets are, on average, smaller than cloud droplets, but they still are huge compared with the wavelengths of visible light. Thus scattering of such light by fog is essentially wavelength independent. Unfortunately, many people learn (without caveats) Rayleigh's scattering law and then assume that it applies to everything. They did not learn that this law is limited to scatterers small compared with the wavelength and at wavelengths far from strong absorption. The second flaw is that in order to get yellow light in the first place you need a filter. Note that yellow fog lights were in use when the only available headlights were incandescent lamps. If you place a filter over a white headlight, you get less transmitted light, and there goes your increased penetration down the drain. There are two possible explanations for yellow fog lights. One is that the first designers of such lights were mislead because they did not understand the limitations of Rayleigh's scattering law and did not know the size distribution of fog droplets. The other explanation is that someone deemed it desirable to make fog lights yellow as a way of signalling to other drivers that visibility is poor and thus caution is in order. Designers of headlights have known for a long time that there is no magic color that gives great penetration. I have an article from the Journal of Scientific Instruments published in October 1938 (Vol. XV, pp. 317-322). The article is by J. H. Nelson and is entitled "Optics of headlights". The penultimate section in this paper is on "fog lamps". Nelson notes that "there is almost complete agreement among designers of fog lamps, and this agreement is in most cases extended to the colour of the light to be used. Although there are still many lamps on the road using yellow light, it seems to be becoming recognized that there is no filter, which, when placed in front of a lamp, will improve the penetration power of that lamp." This was written 61 years ago. Its author uses a few words ("seem", "becoming recognized") indicating that perhaps at one time lamp designers thought that yellow lights had greater penetrating power. And it may be that because of this the first fog lamps were yellow. Once the practice of making such lamps yellow began it just continued because of custom." --------------------------------------------------------------- My understanding is that it is important for fog lights to be one color (rather than white, which is all colors) because the different wavelengths(colors) of visible light scatter off the fog droplets differently. This phenomenon is known as "dispersion," because the different colors of light in an image will separate from each other, causing the image to "disperse." If you illuminate the road with only one wavelength (color) of light, the images of the objects you see will still become somewhat blurry because of the scattering of light by the fog, but at least you won't have extra problems from dispersion. So, if we want to use just one wavelength of light, which wavelength should we use? It turns out that light with short wavelengths scatters more than light with long wavelengths (short to long: violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange, red). So, a long wavelength light will be best. There's another thing to consider, too: our eyes are not equally sensitive to all colors. It turns out that we are most sensitive to yellow and green light. So, our best compromise between sensitivity for our eyes and a long wavelength for least scattering is yellow light. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- As far as we are concerened, its not the globes that are yellow but the lens. This lens can be cracked out to produce a white fog light, but as highlighted above that is not the best idea. I use my fog lights all the time on cruises, as often I go places that get quite foggy in the valleys. The fog lights are best mounted as low as possible to go under the fog as explained above. That is why driving in fog is best done on low beam with the fog lights on, not with the high beam on.

Having been the owner of both an S1 front and S2 front, I am glad to produce the following information. S1 High/Low beams are H4 high/low bulbs 55/60W Fog lights i THINK are H3C globes S2 High beams are HB3 60W Low beams are H1 55W Parkers are D2R 35W Fog lights are unknown at this stage As far as upgrade globes, the Philips replacement globes are ment to be really really good. Might give them a try before I go ahead and slap some spot lights on my roof...

400km isnt bad, thats just over a tanks worth.

Marcus, cooler went on great mate, fitted Friday and refitted the front bar myself...with a little help from my mate called "dremel" There was no S2 at ours either....its an S1.5!!! haha