AlexCim

a sub will NOT fit under the drivers seat mate. NO WAY. Ive got my amp under the passenger seat, all fine. Just have to block up the stock vent in there with some tape over it. Easy to run wires too as the carpets already got a hole in it for the vent. Only issue i dont like is that rear passengers feet can hit the amp, but I always warn people anyway.

Hertz FTW

Auto FTL

Lucas pads were pretty OK for street driving, but yeh, dusty as hell. They were pretty shitty for anything worth while, they overheated quickly as hell. Endless SSS's are what ive got now, they are decent.

ggrrr!! EAST SIDE.....EEAASSTT SSIIDDEEEEE

wow, now it all makes sense...what it says in the instructions....is actually true! hahah

Remove the stock solenoid out of the equation all together. (yellow thing) Plug up the place where the green hose goes to (pre turbo/post AFM nipple). Run a line from the FMIC piping (blue hose) to the actuator (red thing), then cut that line, and put the turbotech boost controller in there. Start with the boost controller fully OPEN (unwound) and work your way in. That is safest, otherwise, fully wound in (WILL FREE BOOST) and work your way out.

Actually, this is probably the most incorrect peice of advice anyone has ever given, unless you didnt explain what you ment fully, that it needs to be covered and cant be left atmo venting. First of all, lets explain how a BOV works. Its basically a spring loaded valve which "releases" when a pressure difference is felt. The vac line you suggested to remove is what causes pressure on one side of the valve. The vac line goes to the plenum, and the other side of the bov is before the throttle body. Hence, when the body closes, the pressure is greater on the inside, then the valve "blows off" venting back to before the turbo. By removing the vac line, you are essentially always making one side 1 bar (atmospheric) so at ANY boost the BOV will just open and vent air. Removing the vac hose will result in - Stalling - Running MEGA rich - Annoying the ecu for a little while as it goes into limp home mode To get flutter, REMOVE the stock bov and cover the hose that goes to pre-turbo and also cover the hole on the intake pipe where the BOV mounts. Or, instead of removing the bov, get a rubber cap for the hose size and attach it on with a hose clamp. Then, remove the vac hose and it wont matter that the BOV is always open if its clamped up ok. You will then get sick flutter. No idea why, but my stag fluttered with the stock BOV, GCG highflow and 1 bar (with pod), but when I put it back to the stock turbo at 10psi it went back to the stock "pffffff" venting noise.

As most people, ive felt the cooling effect of metho/acetone/paint stripper before but can someone shed some lights on this from a physics point of view. Ive got an understanding of the idea of boiling temps, latent heats etc, but someone explain to me why water has a higher latent heat of vaporization (therefore should "suck" more energy) but metho feels colder? Substance Specific latent heat of fusion kJ.kg-1 ºC Specific latent heat of vaporization kJ.kg-1 ºC Water 334 0 2258 100 Ethanol 109 -114 838 78 Ethanoic acid 192 17 395 118 Chloroform 74 -64 254 62 Mercury 11 -39 294 357 Sulphur 54 115 1406 445 Hydrogen 60 -259 449 -253 Oxygen 14 -219 213 -183 Nitrogen 25 -210 199 -196 Do you want to be using something that has a low latent heat and low boiling temperature, so it is more effective in evaporating and drawing energy out. I guess, ideally, something that has a good ratio of latent heat and boiling temp, hence being able to "suck" the most "heat" out with the least temperature change? As far as WRX's and waterspray, well, the cooler sits on top of a hot engine block, so i am sure they wanted to do as much as they could to help the cooling without going FMIC (lag) BTW, ARE make a kick ass dry ice to air intercooler, but obviously you need to refill that. Also on mythbusters they made this awesome copper coil in a bucket of dry ice that froze beer before it got down to teh bottom of the coil. Anyway, cheers

74433

its not the cars, its the freaking drivers IMPOUND THE CRAPPY DRIVERS, NOT THE GOOD CARS FFS More bloody stringent licencing is the key, get rid of those f**king camry drivers!

I dont see any real benefit to lower intake temps beyond the std air boxs affect. If I was serious about it, id get a hole saw, cut a hole where the stock SMIC pipe goes and run a pod to where the stock SMIC sits, otherwise I wouldnt really bother. I personally cant see a water spray kit being that effective... unless, you sprayed liquid nitrogen or submerged the intercooler in a box of dry ice. Infact, I think its 1hp for each 1 degree centigrade or something and a water spray kit wont bring the temperature down beyond ambient either. So lets say a decent FMIC which is probaly 10 degrees above ambient... so much effort, so little return.

actually,the r34 gtt sidemount is good for 200 odd rwkw/awkw and wont heatsoak too badly if you are using a stock/factory option front bar which is designed to flow in that direction. using the factory shroud will also help. i think for ~$200 and DIY install (easy as piss), the r34 gtt cooler upgrade on an r33 is a great idea. this is what i have done second time around on my stagea, first time being a GT-AH cooler/custom piping

i already knew about the "r33 turbo on an rb20 running 14psi is fine" thing, but for my knowledge, why is an r33 turbo able to run 14psi on an RB20 but only really good for a daily 10psi on an rb25? is it the extra displacement has a lot more heat, which causes the wheel failure?

i love the s2 dayz

stagea flutters mad with a pod on and the highflow turbo + 1 bar

which also has a ceramic wheel?

AFAIK the difference between 555's and 740 NISMOs is about $5 from Nengun

ahh kk, dont worry, looked on the website http://www.maxoutperformance.se/Maxout%20EN/R32%20Drag.html

is it hard to change the spark plugs with the engine recessed so far into the firewall? got any interior photos, how much did you modify the tranny tunnel?

OWNED haha Though, seriously, you need some of the stock swaybar parts when installing the whiteline bar...

Its probably easiest to find the bar where it goes over the exhaust, it will look like the 2nd picture down above. Its will be just behind the muffler, towards the front of the car. The stock one has different links on the ends, but i am just showing you what the whiteline ones will look like. If your car truely has had its sway bar removed, I can ONLY imagine what you've been going through, it would be a MEGA boat.

ONE....HUNDRED....AND....SIXTY!!! WTF Pipercross air filter which as SK said is better (Dual layer foam) is ... lol... $75 delivered Sorry mate, but for $160 you paid a little too much.

AMS sells nismo sideskirts

japs have such nice english hand writing. same with chinese people.