AlexCim

Oops, I ment air actually, as air is a good insulator. But on another note, lets get into some physics. The specific heat capacity of air is 1005 J/Kg K and of water is 4184 J/Kg K. So that means that for each gram of water, compared to a gram of air, you need MORE energy to change its temperature. Doesnt that mean that mean that water is an even better insulator then air? I would think they use it in cooling systems because its readily available, plus for a given mass of water compared to most other things can hold a LOT of energy. Also, metals have SHC's around 900 and below. All the way down to 200 for mercury.

Nope, sounds like a good idea actually Good luck with it.

Oh, by the way, stay tuned as i have bought "smoke" paint to tint the rear windows like real life. I doubt i can do these without leaving streeks though....maybe i should use some night shades? probably should have also had the rear view mirrors on before i painted, and the wipers and stuff, but ill just paint those off the car then glue them on! I am excited!

Ok, well, guys here is a story for the kids Well, i got my Stag, went bought the paints that i needed (it was like, $50 of paint/glue etc) then i started at it. Did some black parts, underside, interior etc, then started on the body... well... i was using white enamel paint and after doing 50-60% of the car, it looked pretty bad. Not very smooth, not perfect (as i like it) etc. So, I at the time didnt know that turps melted plastic... sooooo...time to remove the enamel with turps! 5 minutes in my body starts cracking. I cracked some of the pillars off, the side of it cracked along the door, the roof/bonnet was fracturing...OH NO! I cleaned it ASAP, got all the turps off and let it sit in water over night. The plastic then became very soft and it took some time of glueing, clamping, waiting etc but i fixed most of my body. However, not all the paint was off. I sanded back the entire body and reside, made the plastic smooth again, spent about 2 hours on this. Then, the baby was ready for the spray paint. I sprayed her about 2-3 hours ago, going to let it dry overnight, but look how she turned out! The one problem with spraying is that you need to do it somewhere well ventilated, but that often means somewhere pretty dusty. I have ha a few dust particles settle on the roof and bonnet, but HEY, what can you do? Its much smoother then the enamel paint anyway and i am happy with the results. I am as of yet to attach the lights, paint the grey strips down the sides, the roof racks etc, but i am going to let the car dry for a good 2 days before i touch it again. It is now drying under a plastic container that i cleaned the inside of like there was no tomorrow. Will let everyone know how it looks as i draw nearer to completion. This is the first model i have ever made properly (paint wise) and spray painting, well, it was a $3 can from bunnings and the only other thing ive ever sprayed was my strut bar. Lots of thin coats seems to do it well!

Yes, but...dont bother if i were you

Well, the way i see it, you are chaning the ratio of the engine to the rear driveshafts (like, the half shafts)...sooo... to compensate for the change in ratio of the spinning of the axle, you change the ratio of the axle to the rolling diameter to compensate.. Lots of annoying maths, but i think i had it right.

Spotted white stagea on springvale road, guy was from kamikaze and i chatted with him. They are trying to get vic compo for them Also, spotted one in Bayswater bursons carpark (he parked next to me). I direct him to the forum. These buggers are all over the joint now!

Nismo makes rear diffs for 98+ stageas, no S1's. Cusco makes LSD's for S1's. 1.5 is locked on accell and slight lock on decell 2 is lock on accell and decell (unstable under decell (drift making)) Get the 1.5way, ultimate.

Wheels, maybe going to get 1.5 quick sale, 2k for a little longer sale time. They are 18's, so thats a seller.

Why would i want GTS or GTR engraved on my Stagea one? Though, you could mean get them on the other ones... right?

AFAIK, GTS4?

And now everyone is understanding why i started this thread ey? The adv of a 260rs is not only is it manual, but the 26 is sooooo easy to get power out of. Spend 5k on a 260rs as SK explained and you can get 250awkw from the sucker...and manual.....and body kit/suspension/interior not needing chaning.... I think ill mod my 25 to around 220-230, make the auto a bit stronger, keep it for a few years, then just get a 260rs when they are around 30k...

Once you think of the weight of the water, the losses of effciency (water is a great insulator,therefore that extra step really hurts it) its not really worth it. air-air is just so much easier too. If you want to improve the air-air, just spray something on it that sucks a LOT of heat out like alchohol or metho or something that evaporates REALLY quick (more then water that it)

I think if you want to fix your speedo, the easiest way is to do it with changing tyres to suit the % difference in ratio's Find a set of tyres that read 3.9/4.111, so at a 6% error to your standard wheels. As the 3.9 ratio will give more top speed, you need to balance that with faster acclerating tyres (smaller) (i think) http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp So, using the stock GTT wheels, i deduce you need 225/35R17's to solve your problem. Could also be in the other direction, i am not sure, i am confused. But thats probably the cheapest/easiest way to fix your issue...

If the backfire is a burble when you let off, this is 100% fine and happends with most larger exhausts... Also, if the BOV is atmo, it will make the car run rich on gearchanges would could partially attribute to the backfiring Is it backfiring as in BANG BANG or just pop pop?

Hmm, oddly enough, the numbers on my keys have been ground off......

I want mine in black, unicorn engraved. I would probably want the unicorn somewhere towards the side. So lets say on the far left around where the horn would be. I dont think it woul look bad offset like that because it would be balanced by the hole cut into the other side for the air scoop. Also it couldnt be centred because the latch for the bonnet is in the very centre. I mean, you COULD put it there, but it would be tiny. Luke, thats really cool btw, well done!

Sure, 100%. Just thought the drive might be more expensive then getting it posted to you is all. Obviously we will arrange pickup/delivery etc next week when I got buy them. Anyone else interested?

The red one will be muck in his car, has enkei wheels. I am in glenny quite often around happy cup, century city, glen area. White with R34 GTT wheels... if you see me, glad to chat

Who bought it? What did they pay for it if you dont mind me asking? Greens my favorite colour too, its very sleek/smart i reckon.

AFAIK, cant really see the clutch pedal box too easy as things like the streering column etc get in the way....well...when i was poking around. Let us know though

Fair enough, thats why i started the "similarities" thread. if i can use a skyline box, that would be great. Ill work something out. I am sure my box isnt the problem, probably the torque converter or something but would still love to know if its the same (in case one day i/someone blows their box)

Fair enough, thats why i started the "similarities" thread. if i can use a skyline box, that would be great. Ill work something out. I am sure my box isnt the problem, probably the torque converter or something but would still love to know if its the same (in case one day i/someone blows their box)

Well, if the box is the same as the skyline, this is great for me. I am sure i can find an auto skyline gearbox here locally in Melbourne for like, $50. Also good for the other guys to know in case anything goes wrong....

I am certain that another way to go about it is to use the RS4S pedal set, GTST master/slave and GTR box. Would save a lot of time, but you would need the RS4S pedal box (but it saves removing the engine to convert it)