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AlexCim

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Everything posted by AlexCim

  1. I want one for the Stagea WGNC34 Just want white face, dont care about logos or that BS. Just want black numbers but would love brighter wedge LED's in a yellow/orangy color (incandecent globe colour)
  2. So mate, got any opinions on the unit etc. I would love to hear some feedback on them.
  3. LOL...could that be because you had heaps of trouble with it?
  4. How longs the box been sitting there? As long as you reckon it is in good nick, runs smooth etc then ill probably grab it yes. Could I use the CV joints from the passenger side on the driver side? (you know my issue (s) )
  5. Someone care to elaborate on the emanage?
  6. i replied, please check and report back. thanks
  7. Interested in the gearbox. As you know, my auto box tends to woo in N/D. Not sure what it is, but i think the easiest thing is to just get a whole new gearbox. Whats the condition of the box, I want somethng in good nick and then ill valve body upgrade it. If anything goes wrong, Ill just rebuild my auto box and swap that back in again. So, how many km, torque converter included? shipping to Melbourne for the lot? Do you have CV joints with those axles? Also the rear hubs?
  8. interesting to see they are all S2's. I guess S1's just arnt cool any more? Maybe they are going to nissan dealer eyyyyy
  9. yeh, iono. I think a wagon form suits a stagea well...
  10. HAHAHAH, thats gold! Thats in Brisbane right? I saw a stag this morning, talked to the guy, he is from an importer here and he said "we are going to get a heap of them". Thats Kamakaze Motors sooo it seems like all the importers are starting to get into Stagea. They have seen the light....I dont want to loose my exclusivity though
  11. I would rather prefer a single unit piggy back over a glovebox full of them, like SK has. thats why i am trying to find a single unit that will suit.
  12. Lucky enough for me, APS who is the unichip AU dealer is about 10 minutes from here at work. I am going to go speak with them today at lunch time. AFAIk, Unichip only does fuel/ignition? The guy whos bought his stagea i met last week, however, I dont know if he will know much as he bought the car like that. Like, if you buy a car, it could have forged internals for all you know (i hope that makes sense). Id rather talk to the person who did what first hand.
  13. Ok guys, just want to know what the hell is avaiable for my car regarding tuning. Now, these are what i know of - DFA only - SITC and DFA - Exh cam gear in the whole bundle - Trust E-manage - HKS Fcon V - Unichip - Daughterboard Can anyone please post up what they intend to use and why. Also if they have a reason not to use another system, please explain why. At the moment, I would prefer to use either a FconV, Daughterboard or Unichip. Can ANYONE please post up if they have any experiance with these, costs, tuning, availability etc. (I am in Melbourne)
  14. From this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=92969&st=0 So what I did was this. Jacked the car up on 4 stands, removed the rear wheels and... - When rotating the drive shaft from next to the mid muffler, only one wheel turned (one warped brake disk causing slight rubbing)(on another note, could this attribute to poor fuel economy?) but there was basically no slack at all. I also used one hand and held the hub softly and then turned the tailshaft to see what the delay was, almost instant. - Then i looked forward, there was a 1-2cm turn distance delay from turning the tailshaft to when the front wheels started to turn, could this be an issue? - The ammount of free movement in the uni joint was 1mm, MAYBE 2mm. It was almost nothing. So then I got thinking - I went around to the drive side (kinda where the noise comes from) and i pulled the axle IN towards the car (ie away from the hub). Let it go softly and it made a clunk clunck clunck noise, as if it wasnt greased or something. Tried the same on the other side and got much more a muffled thud thud thud noise. Can someone try this on their car and tell me if when the axle is pulled away from the hub and let go it clunks or thuds? - Didnt do the fronts, but i tried to move the front axles and they wouldnt budge. So i ticked them off and went on my way - Also, I got someone else to turn the other side wheel in the same direction as me at the same time as brad suggested about it being open. There was again, almost no slack between when we turned it and when the tailshaft started moving - Oh and, i sat in the car and got my friend to pull the axle in and let it go/repeat, it sounded almost identical to what i was hearing when turning tight corners. THOUGH, dont let that sway you. I am sure heaps of things sound the same. - Turning the tailshaft back and forth more quickly didnt produce any results either. It was good to get under the car and play around, missed being under there Oh, Also, here is something to think about. The noise only comes when I am doing slow/tight turns, this means that there would be weight on/off one/more wheels. I am leaning towards the idea of it being the CV joints in the rear driverside wheel. Best to probably just replace all of them at once if need be no?? (as in, they are the cause) Also, the reason that i tied in SK's suspension kit with the noise (its different to the clapping i was telling you about SK) was probably because lowering the car caused the extended wear of the joint to become more audible. Specially with the subframe lock kit too! And the only thing i had changed, apart from the fact that i ignored ride height, was the suspension, so i thought it was to blame! Am I on to something here? Anyone else got any other ideas? I was sliding in and out the axle (at the top of the pic) It was making a clunk inside the hub somewhere, here is a picture of the hub from FAST
  15. I wont be making it....its hard rubish collection here monday so i have been roped in to clean for the weekend! ARGH
  16. 4 LITRES! I just emptied mine and only got 2L out. Put 2L back in. That includes replacing the ATF cooler.... I have a funnel with a hose on the bottom that slots into the ATF dipstick thing.
  17. Id 99% say that roll bars would be a must, legally or not, as the fact there is no roof along the rear end of the chassis would cause it to bend. Alternativly, heaps of chassis bracing etc.
  18. Looks crap IMO As i said before, must be kept long as stock. What are you going to do, shorten the chassis? Good luck engineering that. Keep the 4 doors, crewman style if anything.
  19. Ditto on the anodizing of blackness. I am sure if the guys that want annodizing done, ill get your guides first and ill get them done here in Melb.
  20. That model is not to proportion. There is a massive ammount of length missing where the rear doors would be. I reckon a real ute would look cool, but it would take away lots of a practicality and only add even more weight/reduce handling.
  21. haha, no problems either, but yes, need new pads. I have to push mine down really really far down near to the floor. I cant stop on a hill without it being in park as it starts to slowly roll....
  22. FMIC - Front mount intercooler SITC - Super Ignition Timing Controller (Apexi specific product) R&R - ECU Rich and Retard NVH/NVM - Noise Vibration Harshness/Movement SMIC - Side Mount Intercooler SAFC - Super Air Fuel Controller (AFM Voltage Bender) (Apexi specific product) AVCR - Apexi's Electronic Boost Controller AFM - Air Flow Meter DFA - Digital Fuel Adjuster (AFM Voltage Bender) (Jaycar named unit similar to SAFC) EBC - Electronic Boost Controller (Generic name) IEBC - Intellegent Electronic Boost Controller (Jaycar just added on I) (Jaycar specific name) TT - Turbo Timer or Twin Turbo when after an engine (aka RB26DETT) DC - Davies Craig Cat - Catalytic Converter Cant really think of much more now, if anyone has any more ideas post away..
  23. Uh Oh... That is no good. Thats like, 50% of the rear rights
  24. No, Its not on my conscience at all. Supply and demand. I am not going to get angry at anyone for selling what they have, afterall, they have it and others want it (such as myself) so why wouldnt you sell it? Anyway, selling a manual is much more different to selling a product. A manual truely helps others out, it is not just something that people want. On another note, $140 for a Stagea CD with service manuals is pretty high. Youd think by now someone would have basically released it for free (as happend with JPNZ) I only have but thanks, this item will help greatly when screwing about with my unicorn. Ta
  25. First to lay down the background, have a read of this thread about the ATF coolers. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=59399 Now, I can offer these coolers 678 DC coolers with 3/8inch fitings for $118 each plus postage and handling. Pickup available in Blackburn area in Melbourne, postage anywhere in Australia also available. Postage costs will vary. Handling fees will be fixed at $10 for each item (to cover bubble wrap, packing materials, going to the post office etc). Worst case scenario, to the middle of nowhere, postage will be ~20$ (Thats like postcode 0830 in NT). Sydney/Adelaide should be around $10, Melbourne $7, Brisbane $13. These RRP for $150, but you need to go pick em up etc, they are not delivered to your door (yes, i am THAT lazy ) I dont need to explain the product here, just read the thread above. Suitable for any Auto trans So, who is interested 1. humble - picked up 2. bwilkeson - delivered to adelaide 3. pkblade - delivered to adelaide 4. skidkid - 2 units delivered to tassie 5. wagon - delivered to melbourne 6. AMS - delivered to country NSW 7. Nightcrawler - delivered to adelaide 8. MR_RS4 - delivered to brisbane 9. 10. Once we know who is interested, I will send out the details of where everyone will need to make the payment. But for now, lets get some names.
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