AlexCim

RB31 is the same as an RB23, RB24, RB27 or RB28. You take a given RB block, 20/25/26/30 and then increase either the bore or the stroke to give you more displacement.

Just to piss everyone off - I have a tow bar - I have cruise control - I have the gauges mounted nicely - I have enough leg room - I have a highflow turbo - I have decent fuel consumption (10L hwy, 14L city) - I have found the upgrade kit (Bilstein/Whiteline) excellent, double wishbones are the bomb - I have wheels that look great, fit well and don't rub at all - I have found aftermarket support pretty great, I've gotten every replacement part pretty easily. Just had to use my brain in some cases BUT, what annoys me - auto, 4wd and heavy (not AS fun, cant drift/skid it, chews tyres/fuel when on the fang) So then my question, why isnt someone buying my reasonably priced, well equipped, well performing wagon?

Been tried before about 2-3 times. Kits are a thing that people kinda have to sort out for themselves really... Its not easy getting 10 people to buy the same body kit, especially when there is only about 350-400 Stagea's in the country, and maybe about 20-30 people on this Stagea section forum, with Stageas.

These cars are all my style. DB9R - The daily CCR - Event car, very sleek and sexy Zonda - Event car, when you want to stand out FXX - Track/Road terror Seven - Track But if I had to choose only one of them, FXX would be it 100%. I am willing to sacrifice comfort and roll down windows for pure performance.

Pretty much all importers wind back clocks. Digital distance counters are even easier to wind back. Just reflash a rom chip and off you go. Big discussion was in the Stagea section a while back. As far as who does it, its the guys in Aus that do it and some people in Japan. 10,000km here, 10,000km there, it all adds up to reduce the km's heaps by the time it finally gets here. And yeh, as above, its nothing new. Goooooo MEDIA! LOL

Obviously if you are looking part for part, nothing fits. You have to do a whole front conversion. The guards, bonnet, front bar, grille, headlights are all different. However, they all bolt on to an S1 chassis. The only things that don't bolt on are the inner guards, as clearly the front bars are different/have different attachment points. To fit the headlights also, the attachment points are different so you need to drill two new holes, weld the nuts on under the radiator support, then they just bolt on. One final thing to note, the headlight plugs are also different, so you need to cut/solder the S2 plugs on the S1 wires but it all works the same from the stork. Other parts wise, most suspension stuff is the same, interior will all bolt in, doors/rear panels are the same. The rear lights have different plugs though, like the front. The engine stuff wont ALL bolt in as its R33 S2 motor vs NEO motor. Overall, its the same chassis with a different front/interior quality/motor.

only issue of dropping the rear without touching the front is the nose up look of the stag standard is replaced by an even more nose up look. otherwise, nice pick up.

tuff photo Luke

well, my stags got 110,000 km on it and its going harder than ever. Regular oil changes, regular filter changes, regular fluid checks, its all sweet!

GTR wheels are made of hollow alloy if i remember correctly. Yes, they are light. Lighter than china wheels for sure. Plus they fit fine with his SK, yay

Lash the wheels up and ill send a TNT courier as soon as your give me the go ahead. I could send them even tomorrow. Let me know.

I dont think a Stageas a Stagea without roof racks.... No discrimination intended, but I dont know, the racks set it off..

All stageas have roof racks, its only modded ones that dont (For example, Andys RS4S) East Bear makes a kit to remove the rails.... i personally love em!

Stagea ownership is very "try and see" my friend. Give it a go!

KW at the fly wheel, well, Id expect around 25% losses via drivetrain and about another 10% due to the auto box, so about ~250kw. Thing is, a stock Stagea makes ~125awkw, so mine is about 45% more than stock. The car WILL make over 200awkw at 1 bar to 1.1 bar, I just need to buy a FPR and retune it (Or, for you to do it) I will probably buy a FPR soon and retune it as I want to see what this beast can do before I sell it. 1/4 mile time, it ran a 14.2@100mph with ~150awkw at Heathcoate with a time slip to prove. I think it would do faster on not such hot days. The track was running pretty slow times that day (Example, R33 GTST's with exhaust/cooler/pod were doing mid 14's)

I think I was the inspiration for SK's large post above. 2 weeks ago I got the car tuned at 180awkw using a DFA/SITC/EBC combo. I could not go over that power limit as I was hitting fuel cut over 12psi. I could go over 12psi, up to about 1 bar, but that was causing a "leaning spike" around 4,500rpm. I will buy a FPR and retune the car and let everyone know my results.

I reckon that if you could splice the ECU wires to go to the auto ecu to run the auto, and the PFC to run the engine, it could work alright.

Car was just tuned last week to make 180awkw @ 12psi of boost. Was tuned on a hot(40)/humid(100%) day, but definatly goes much harder than before at night time!

Both the R34 and R33's have VVT on the intake cam. The difference is the R34 system is infinatly variable in adjustment, where the R33 system is on/off. However, this doesnt seem to be an issue as Cyrus is running and R34 GTT powerFC in his R33 engined manual converted Stagea. I dont know if the tiptronic/not argument has much basis either, as the box still works like an auto, essentially they are both the same, with the tiptronic feature being an add-on to the standard auto box....understand what I am trying to say. Id be curious to see what would happen if someone tried it. OH, on another note, there are a few sensor changes from R33 to R34, for example R34 RB25DET's have MAP sensors which tell the ecu how much boost the car is running, also a few of the pinouts on the R34 are different to the Stagea, namingly the injectors are on different pins (hence the car wont run plug out/plug in with an R34 ecu)

I guess he just wanted to know how to go about fixing it. It was something my best mate and I pointed out to him when we met at the tint professor. Its pretty simple, remove the mirrors, sand the rust back, fill the gaps, paint the entire door, reinstall mirror, finished.

I like the idea of mounting the cross overs in the foam, I will do that from now on in stereo installs I do.

drift?

Stags look 10x better with jap plates than these stupid aussie ones

Driver/passenger interior. The speaker grills are off just for the moment, but obviously they are always on otherwise. The rear boot area will be cleaned, the entire interior will be. Obviously this is a picture from daily usage of the car, so its not the cleanest. Stealth engine bay. Black is the theme that I like to go with!

With the exact same mods, me and FLYSLY both made between 158-160awkw.