AlexCim

Get your car tuned RB's run conservative tunes from factory, mega rich. Best to just put out and get a powerFC. Or you can get a piggy back like a jaycar DFA or SAFC

I have a Z32 sitting on my shelf here, not going in until manual conversion, which will be in around a month. I dont mind lending it to you for a week or so. I am Forest Hill, available all of today if you want to come pick it up from where you are in Mitcham I sent you a PM with my phone number BTW, as ive never seen a Z32 before, mine has 5 outputs. Two white, two black and a orange. I presume that is normal?

which fuel light? Are you talking about the little dot at the bottom of the E-F or is there another one? From memory in my stagea, it doesnt turn on.

i got a gates in and havnt noticed any noise difference at all whats the noise ment to sound like? Cost me $400 for supply and fit of the gates

Hmm, i was told 4-6 weeks for mine.. I am waiting on DC2R and DC5R At the same time as i bought those, i was going to buy FD3S and FC3S, but i didnt have the funds to afford them so i said screw it... lucky to the man up who got the FC one, they are top plates

I would only get one to make the intercooler piping reduce in length (increase response) and also to be more "straight" (less resistance) However, the std 25 plenum flows pretty damn well

That because you bought the car before the new laws came into effect?

There should be two lines going into the canister. Input, from somewhere, dont know where Output, i think to pleumn Vaccum Just plug up the input with a bolt and hide the hose up in the sleeve that wraps the two hoses. Btw, what are gains of doing this?

Hmm, interesting I may give them a call soon as i would love to pick up some fenders, headlights, front bar, grill for 2000 stagea and do a conversion on mine ....mmmm

Well, i got the RSFour then Doesnt bother me, keep the kg's down Stupid Vicroads put my vehicle tare mass at 1350. Annoying when there are p plater power-to-weight laws here in Victoria, when the car really weighs ~1600kg

VIC is not 09, it 03. Maybe 09 is NT I wouldnt have throught there were many people wrecking stageas down here.

She sold hers on eBay i think I think, probably around two or three years down the track, ill get the funds together and get myself a M35 Someting along these lines With the VQ25DET NEO, im sure parts wouldnt be hard to find (ahahah...joke ). But hey, customs where its at these days

Yes, i have a feeling mine is pretty base line No electric boot No interior options (though, i find the std stereo speakers really good compared to other cars ive listened in...could have been changed, havnt looked) No body kit at all (at least i got the lower front lip)

Id buy some mate They would be mega useful for heaps of hoses!

It could have been changed at compliance, but when the car is wound back and the fuel filter on there is not a genuine nissan, i dont want to take any chances. Best to be safe then sorry ey? When i replace my oil filter i get a good 1/2 glass worth of oil drip down on my diff/steering rack etc... I am using genuine nissan filters, what can i do to change this? I want to get a oil filter relocation kit, but have fears with the oil being needed to be pumped that extra distance.

Ok, just did an oil and filter change (third oil change, 2nd filter) Now, how the hell do i replace the oil filter (without a hoist etc) and NOT have oil piss off everywhere because the filter is mounted on its side? Do i need to just deal with it and clean it up? Tried to replace the fuel filter, DAMN those lines are put on HARD. Is there any took that i could use? I was thinking of buying one of those puller things which attached to a hose and then you screw in a screw forcing the hose off. Is that the best idea? ------ To replace the ATF, do i just drain the fluid at the transmission sump and then top up from the dip stick bit? Anyone know how much fluid i need or is a more "as much as you take out" answer that i will get? How do i replace the diff oil? I think this may not need replacing often, but hey, i reckon its never been done on my car (F and R) so id wanna just be smart about it. Thanks for all your replies

The split was put on at the same time as the intercooler. Definatly, the car is faster after i had the work, but i find the biggest imrovement was in the topend where the car still pulls, where before it started to fade off 5k+ Considering an exhaust and good flowing intercooler are both essentially supporting mods, i am happy to say that i have the best (within reason) that i want The biggest restriction in my exhaust is the fujitsubo catback. You dont get ~stock loudness without a cost, but that is a cost that i am willing to bare Plus, i find that autos suck balls with loud exhausts, specially in the single cabin stageas! BTW, what i dont classify as supporting mods are things like Head work Turbos Internal works I see these as the "real" things that improve power as they are the direct cause of the power...iono...od view i guess

Another one for Brazens car Mate, for ~25k, you wont import such a good example, plus there is nothing like paying the same day as driving away. There is SOME excitement with importing, but only at first. Then it turns into anger with delay this delay that (ive imported myself two celsiors before). I bought the stag locally. So yeh, Brazens! Much better power for std too, wont have to mod it right away.

No pictures, its too difficult to take photos of any real value because of the heat sheild. Also, the modifications that revzone made are also not really visible in photos. Mate, best to come around and have a look when you have some free time. Shoot me a PM about it and we can arrange something no worries...(i finish uni exams thursday, so lots of free time)

I put 4.5L into my S2 R33 engine (In the stagea of coarse) Couldnt be much different for a 34...

I have a pipercross filter http://shop.fabre.com.au/store/products/item113.inetstore SK reccomended it to me and i am pretty happy with it. Definatly flows a lot better, better induction noise, and all with the legal std airbox

I dont see any difference in operation between a 10psi spring and a 20psi spring. Infact, the way i see if, if you have a 7psi spring with a 10psi map, and then you replace with a 20psi spring, and used the old +3psi (10-7) map, you would boost 23psi I dont really know how to explain why i think that, but with a bigger spring, bigger boost, more pressure at the same duty cycle on the spring so it all stays in proportion... Would i be right to think like that? With this IEBC, there is no overboosting, boost drop etc, you map that all into the map. Part throttle works like any other boost controller...

Dude, there is no AWD option? Its FWD or RWD... Good one

Hmm lucky mine came with it already installed! I find the system to be quite ok, infact, its pretty damn accurate/good from the other four cruise controls i have used http://www.autron.com.au/newweb/index1280.htm The only single gripe i have with it. If i am cruising and i put the gearstick from D to N, the engine revs up unless i press the brakes. Apart from that, meh. With the manual coming, i dont see myself shifting while i cruise anyway.

if thats landed and complied, i may just fork out the cash and get a 260rs. Save me all the trouble with the manual conversion etc.