AlexCim

What car is the replica made from? I mean, is it a chassis that was converted? Or tube frame chassis with panels bolted on etc?

"picked it up in japan for only 23k" 23k sounds like, price in japan +ship +comply +on road mm... the 260's are coming out in force!

"* Electric, self-closing rear door (boot);" Not true, mine doesnt have this. I took off the rear trim on the boot to check too, couldnt see any motors or anything back there...

For that Item cost (2500) + 3000Y fee + 500Y inland japan postage + 505Y bank fee + 10AUD handling fee for packaging + ~1500Y postage ------------------- Cost landed... do the sums

Get a legnum ?

I dare say its a hole new hatch with half parts for the lights. Otherwise, it is a bog, fibreglass, fill, smooth, spray custom once off thing. But yes, i really like it as well... My car, for reference Here is what i would like more... For just the eyelids, could use some thin aluminium, bend and cut it to shape and then get it powdercoated white or the colour of the car, if they can match. Else, get it sprayed.

The way i would do it remove the oil presure swith (its a bitch to get to, got to go in from under the car and its below the oil filter, closer to the tranny. Remove that, then screw in the oil pressure sender. Wire up and off you go. Id leave the oil filter alone and all.

Is anybody actually tending to this thread?

This yearly rego thing sounds pretty tough. How do the street monsters get through? The ones with like, 100000000000 illegal mods?

Running richer results in more unburnt fuel. This fuel travels out of the turbo, down the pipe and collects in the cat. Cat get really hot and this temperature causes the fuel to ignite inside the cat. This furthur increases the temperature causing a positive feedback mechanism inside the cat...

I beleive you have more then enough information in this thread to be able to install the cooler. Several people have explained cutting below the battery. Also, pipe diagrams are draw/given. Mounting instuctions too. I would say that if you are still pondering what to do, its easiest to take it to a workshop and get them to do it for you. Should cover much over 250-350 for an install i dont reckon.

The red circles are tight junctions... From your PM SK 1. What's the T piece for on the pressure feed from the intercooler return pipe? Or is is just a reducer for the large to small hose connection? It is just a reducer 2. Where does the front hose go? The one with the pink stipe, that comes off the T piece (the other hose off the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator). Vents to atmosphere 3. Have you blocked off the fitting on the inlet to the turbo? Uh..actually no. Should i put the one with the restrictor connected to that nipple? The hose isnt long enough to reach that location. The inlet is just venting to the atmo, but its before. What could leaving this open cause? Some air being sucked in after the AFM?

Ok, Just had the car worked on and when they put the vacumm hoses back they put them back the wrong way. (FMIC work+ BOS importing split front/dump) Anyway, i fixed it all but i got given a hose with a restrictor in there that wasnt mine. Anyway, with the restrictor i was given i was boosting to about 12psi.. Anyway, since then, i soldered and redrilled the restrictor to 1mm (didnt have 1.25, plus figured that i could get even less boost that was and use lower duty cycles) Anyway, on my low boost map of 100% duty cycle across the board, the car starts off at about 5psi at ~2000, then at about ~4000 the cars boosting ~6psi and then at about ~6000 the car is boosting ~8psi. Whats up with that? The vent is smaller so it should be letting MORE air to the wastegate. Also, the turbo should be running out of puff at high RPMs, before the cooler i had to drop the duty cycles at high rpm to hold the same psi... My plumbing is set up as below When they put the nipple on the intercooler pipes, they used a big nipple. The only thing that i can think it to be, to be causing this creep is that the reducer between the big pipe on the IC and the small pipe on the solinoid is reducing flow at high RPM? Alternativly, the solinoid is on the way out? Anybody got any ideas on this? Cheers.. I dont mind this creep, ill just have to factor it in when map, but its odd that even at 100% duty, i cant get it below 8psi at close tor redline?

Uh, this might sound like a really odd question. But if you blew your exhaust turbine wheel pretty bad, so that it wouldnt spin the compressor any more. Then effectivly, the car will always be in VAC, will the ECU still be able to run the car correctly at say 5000 when it would normally be in +ve pressure? I can get it at 5000 in vac, just doing down a hill in second. But... i dont know if thats the same? Essentially, if turbo breaks, can the car still run/be driven normally? ALSO, does the cat get damaged much when blade peices go into it?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=89472

Wow, that worked out GREAT! Dammit i want a DAYZ front bar heaps now. Will suit my application perfect, i guess its something that may just work itself out in the future.

You are lucky that there are people as computer talented as me in this world. This will fix your problems... You need to cut a hole under the battery tray to fit the pipes. You may also need to remove your windsheild wiper bottle on the driver side as it may get in the way. To fit the cooler, you will need to probably hang it off the bolt that has the hood latch on it. Under the car get some metal strips and bolt it to the holes infront of the radiator. You will need to cut the front support bar. Use a grinder for this. The rest...as they say, is history. PS. Try this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=92828&st=0

Ive spoken to my local spare parts guys, they are going to first email AU and see if they can supply for my car, then they will ask japan. Even if its in Jap, would be fine to translate and at least have a true copy of the correct pinouts. ETA few days. Also, emailed and called the Aussie distributors of PFC's. Lucky enough, their factory is ~5 minutes away from me so they can inspect the car etc if required and they will get back to me in a few days too. So hopefully, in a few days, ill post a new thread about the PFC/Pinouts issue. Im sure this will benefit more then myself. EDIT: Ska with a AWD stagea is using a PFC so SOME pfc must fit. Hopefully Access auto can help, as i KNOW his is on bought from Access auto. Mercury let me in on that much... muahaha

For a wagon, i am sure nissan didnt care. Skylines arnt gutless either for their market ($$)

And the moral of this story is...

If they dont have it, they should be able to get it. What if i took it into a nissan dealer for repairs or something, they MUST have access to it. On another note, does that mean that the R33 PFC should be fine(ideal) if i swap the plug on the harness. At the same time, hardwire the ETS controller into pins 7, 30 and 56...therefore making the atessa work fine getting its inputs as required. Not sure if i missed it, are pins 7/30/56 on the skylines all outputs right? I hope this is the case, as this would save me a lot of money/time with selling the PFC for ECR33 i already have, std ecu, plug etc.

Ok, i am going to go to my local nissan spare parts and ask for a stagea auto ecu pin out. I know it could be different to the GTT pinouts that are floating around, but being mates with the fellas there, im sure they will be helpful. Will also be good to finally have a copy of the real pin outs As a side note, the S1 is basically identical to the R33 GTR in set up i reckon.

Its for a manual conversion to change the ECU at the same time. Thats why its an auto engine harness and a manual ECU. But yes, is there any way to map the PFC to use S2 VVT instead?

I am sure that can be hard wired up correctly, as the R33 MUST have those outputs, just probably on different pins? Are they extra pins, or different pins?

I removed that uner bonnet insulation thing