AlexCim

Ok, that topic will sound very VERY confusing, but here is the low down -S1 Auto stagea has R33 S2 Engine -Engine harness same as R34 GTT I have bought a plug(to swap over) and PFC for R33 S2 thinking its right, but someones told me that the GTT PFC also works and doesnt require mods to the harness. Are there any issues with running a NEO6 PFC on a NON NEO6 GTST.

mine arnt lipped

Are you sure they are OUPUTS, not inputs? What cars is the PowerFC supported on? 200sx S14 93/10 - 96/5 180sx RPS13 (Red Head) 91/1 - 93/12 200sx S13 Red Top 91/1 - 93/9 180sx RPS13 (Red Head) 94/1 - 96/7 200sx S14 96/6 - 98/12 180sx RPS13 (Red Head) 96/8 - 99/1 200sx S15 99/1 - 02/7 Honda Civic Type R 97/6-98/8 Honda Integra Type R 95/9-01/6 Mazda RX7 Series 1-3 91/12-95/11 Mazda RX7 Series 4 95/12-98/12 Mazda RX7 Series 5 99/1-00/9 Mitsubish Evo VI 99/1-01/1 Mitsubish Evo V 98/1 - 98/12 Mitsubish Evo VII 01/2 - 02/3 Nissan Pulsar GTiR RNN14 SR20DET 90/8 - 95/1 Silvia S13 CA18DET 88/5 - 91/ 1 Specialized Unit Silvia S13 CA18DET 88/5-91/1 Skyline ER34 Skyline HCR32 89/5 - 93/8 Skyline HCR32 RB20DET 89/5-93/8 Skyline BNR34 Skyline BNR32/BCNR33 Skyline ECR33 Subaru WRX Ver1,2 92/11-96/8 Subaru WRX Ver5,6 98/9-00/7 Subaru WRX Ver3,4 96/9-98/8 Toyota Celica ST205 3S-GTE 94/2 - 99/9 Toyota MR2 SW20 91/12-93/10 Version 1 Toyota Supra JZA80 93/5 - 97/8 with loom There is no 4wd PowerFC, but SKA is running a PFC and it is working? I have asked him to check what model he is using, i hope those pins from the std loom just are not connected.... We shall see i guess ---- EDIT ----- StageZilla, got any ideas which pins are the atessa ones? Speaking to Mercury, i was told the 33GTST wont be correct. They say they are just using a plug and play PFC too yet there are no 4WD PFC's which are not GTR, which wont run on RB25's. So i presume they just ignored those pins or something....meaning i can just replug mine for the 33GTST plug and use the GTST PFC.

Ska you get about as much air flow as me. I dont think that i will cut the front bar up for a few reasons. -It wont mesh with the look -I dont need that much FMIC showing yet -Dont have a spare front bar if i want to sell the car as i would return it to stock most probably. How does everyone go with ground clearances? I was going to go under, but i didnt want to loose any more ground clearance. The setup i have now, its perfect, didnt loose any at all (all pipes sit higher then lowest standard point) Easiest will be to get a DAYZ front bar, as it will keep my stock sleeper look but flow a lot better.

I think its best if i just get the aftermarket diff. Doubt ill snap an axle then with ~250awkw plus, its going to be a 1.5way and brand new/tight...also a lot less work. I just want an LSD, not a full rear conversion.

I have a r33 gtst manual pfc ready to go in mine when the time comes. I also bought a std 96 s2 gtst ecu with the plug to convert the engine harness and the std ecu for EPA's etc, So i dont see why a normal ecu couldnt just be used

I dont know, for some reason i cant see an auto winning until some serious (200+) power is reached What i find with the stagea, with the auto is that it bogs down between 2500-4000. I presume with the manual, depending how hard i laucnh, i could probably end the wheel spin around 3500 and that would be perfect But i think the issue i am seeing is more a matter of my car being standard tuned.

Can someone point out to me how difficult it is to replace the stagea diff with a GTR one? I mean, it may be smart for me to buy thise one off you Stage and work on it off the car and when time comes, just do the swap.. or do i get a new housing and everything? NISMO GT PRO are made for Stageas. Look at around 1600 landed brand new though

Its a standard ECU, i see that as being something "wrong" but its all subjective. Can still use a standard ECU, no issues there. The PFC for me is just a logical step if i am changing the ECU Do it once, do it right.

Mate, cant justify the manual, but it will make the car much better Ditch these parts and you can/will afford it - DFA (save 100+tune cost) - Auto trans. Cooler (save ~200, ditch when manual) - SITC (save 250+tune) - Bodykit (Prob. DAYZ) (save ~1k+) - S2 Rear Lights (save 500) - Clear Indicators (save 250-300) - Pioneer Kevlar Splits (save ~250) - Dual Pioneer 12" Subs (save 700 as you need amp aswell) - Velor Re-Trim (save what, 1k?) Thats about 4k in NOT(opinionated opinion) needed stuff! Manual conversion GB - 1500 with shifter and transfer std ecu with plug - 350 master/slave/lines/pedals - 500 labour - 700 or so for 2 days turnaround ..... thats with 1k change from your 4k spending spree..... BTW if you dont mind me asking, for an L plater, where does your funding come from?

BASTARDS! Ill be there soon, urgh, autos piss me off Only a matter of time now... But that info sounds very good, very promising and something that ill look forward too. Chances are i should upgrade the diff at the same time i beleive, as the PFC/power mods etc will all be going in at the same time, so a brisk jump in power and a manual wont make the car love me much...

For the guy that asked for the photos of the ferarri, was at my friends house the other night and took these. Mates WRX is in background, my stags there too Also, for all the people that think my mates WRX is modded to the shit house (i hear at least a story per meet about someone saying he is only quick because of the power).... the cars factory apart from the tyres, AP racing brakes and a couple of stiffer bushes here and there

Fujitsubo make really good quality stuff, my exhaust was 1100 for the catback, have the split front/dump and the $440 cat. The exhaust is the Legalis R, 84dB at 4800 and sounds SWEET. Perfect for a sleeper like mine. If you want a bit more power, get the SUPER R. By the way. If you car is auto...DONT, i mean DONT cheap out on an exhuast. I got a Xforce thing, its droney as hell and i HATE it...hence got this one

As above. Single person, feels way faster. After a good drive today, i stopped and felt both end tanks. The after cooler end tanks felt MUCH cooler. The pipes in the engine were warm, but the air flow rate much be so fast through that pipe that it doesnt have time to heat up. My solution to this problem, let the blades wear themselves down properly and evenly. I know SKA has his blades cut up to suit the piping through that location

Ok, well, as my conversion is coming closer and closer, i have been thinking about launches etc. In the auto, stalling it up, i cant get any wheelspin off the line OR between gear changes. For an autobox, this is about normal. The other day, drove my friends WRP10. Sat at the lights, ~3500, drop the clutch, spun some of first and chirpped into second. Anyway, then we were talking about it and he said that his car wouldnt be able to break any traction if it was auto either. So, onto my question For the fellas with manuals, whats the wheel spin like with a medium (~3500) launch and on hard shifts 1->2 can you get wheel spin/chirps? If you can/cant, post what mods you have so i can get an idea of what i should expect. Cheers, Alex

Also, question to anyone with a FMIC, did you all have to cut out part of your front bar support?

Ok, i just worked on my air scoop and it came out really nice. For the time being, i had stuck electrical tape over the big hole i had cut, but i decided to repair the intake. I bought a $3 square bucket from one of those cheap shop, stenciled the hole out with a whiteout pen, cut the peices out with a dremel, used tape to hold them on, tac welded some points together (melted the plastic from the bucket and intake together) using a soldering iron, took the tape off, welded around all the edges, let it all cool and then cleaned up some of the overhang. The bit where the to added peices go is now drying, i put PVA glue all over that bit as there were a few leaks. Ill let that dry and thats it! Pretty good for $3 and ~2 hours inc cutting, fitting, welding, cleaning up etc

Ok, As I said I would, I am making a dedicated intercooler thread. I hope that lots of people can post up what intercooler setups they have, pictures, costs and whatever relevant information. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I opted to go for a FMIC. I found GTR coolers to be quite good and i found a good one at a good price ($255 delivered from sydney) For the plumbing, i got RevZone (www.revzone.com.au) to do my piping. I decided to get it made in SS which I did, then got it sprayed black (if everyone here hasnt already noticed, i like black...keep it stock) I didnt really say what size pipes i wanted, but i wanted the pipes to be 2.5inch. 3 inch would have been too much lag and 2 inch just too small. Though, i forgot to tell em about it and they made the pipes in 2.25 inch. This first worried me because i thought it could really limit my power... BUT, this is the size of the std piping, and considering i am just going to rebuild the standard turbo with steel wheels, 2.25 inch should be perfect as to not create too much lag. Driverside pipes Mid pipe to plenum Passenger to std pipes The cooler had to be mounted on an angle because of the air conditioning condensor fan. This unit could be replaced with a thinner one and the cool mounter vertically, but then the front bar would have had to be cut a little more. The front bar support also needed trimming which is relativly normal with a front mount install. I had tabs welded onto it and then the cooler held off them. Originally, we were going to go over/under the cooler and bring it back the std plumbing, but, i wanted to bring the pipes up between the radiatior and engine so that i wouldnt loose ground clearance. The driverside pipe goes through the location where the pipes for the trans cooler go, the transcooler pipes were replaced with rubber ones and just moved out of the way. The ends of the 2.25 inch pipes are welded to 2.5inch pipes, so i got 2.5inch to 3 inch reducers for the end of the cooler to fit the piping. As for improvement? At the same time i got my split front/dump pipe put in, so i cant really comment, but the car seems to hold boost a lot easier now and not be as hesitant. Issues? The fan blades have on occasion rubber on the pipes. I will just put some sand paper on the pipes for a while and let the fan blades wear themselves out evenly. Also the std air snorcal had to be modified to fit hte piping. I will soon plastic weld on some sheeting from bunnings. There is no way that i am ditching the air box. And for those asking why are the silicon reducers not black? I had to get the car back before friday and no one had anything in stock on thursday, so i just those ones from Autobarn (i was going to get black ones, but no one had them in stock!...ill spray these black one day) So everybody, go ahead and post your setup with pictures etc. use www.imageshack.us for free photohosting. Cheers! BTW, cost was 750 for the pipes, +145 for the two silicon reducers (desperate) +~$100 labour. During the build, i also walked in to the workshop and chatted to em etc, so they are really helpful blokes.

Oil being THAT black after 2 weeks is odd. Even at my 5000km change, the oil on the dipstick is still semi-clear In the drain pan its black, but on the dipper its still clearish

I have a PSI gauge because i bought an autometer boost gauge. Though, i know how to convert from PSI to BAR pretty easily just using 1 bar = 14psi and 0.5 bar = 7psi, just work off those values and divide into halfs, quaters etc.

I am just getting my piping done at my local tuning shop. I prefer getting all my work done at the same place and they can only do steel (dont have an alloy welder) I dont care about the extra what, 5-10kg. I have come to realisation that a fat bitch will stay fat, no point to try an shed some pounds. I am getting my pipes made like Ska's http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea12.JPG http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea22.JPG http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea23.JPG http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea26.JPG Ill post some photos when the car arrives back. At the same time, ill start a new thread and post photos of my cooler setup without the front bar on. Also, ill post those above of Ska's as Ska's setup. Would be good for a IC thread as terminal and burns both have kits, but me and Ska have custom stuff, so people will be able to easily see the difference.

For the pipes + fitting the dump pipe, its costing me ~1000 Stainless pipes, cut and welded, sprayed black, thinner a/c condensor fan, labour and fitting

...i thought it was staying unmodded!! Its probably better/best if we just organize to meet up in a week or two and then we can have a nice long chat about it and you can just have a look under the car yourself. I am not exactly sure what they are going to do, they may just cut and reweld the pipe with the correct angle on it if they dont bend it.

If i get some time, i can post you all copies of them on CD's Shoot me a PM about it.

I am getting my GTR cooler fitted as we speak, car comes out the shop tomorrow. I am getting SS pipes made for it, same layout as on Ska's car. I am not a welder/have pipes so i had to get a workshop to do it. At the same time, they are fitting my SECOND dump/front pipe in one... it needs one more slight bend in it.. bloody argh! At least ill have a split