rb180

ok so my split fire's came today and i installed them. Took the car for a squirt around the block and all is fixed. Seems that the first coil pack was the problem. The car revs alot smoother and doesnt really have any sort of tiny miss anymore. Im very happy with the result and the split fire's are good good value!

That hks one is just a spark amplifier isn't it ?

I'll try interchange the coil packs aswell thanks! If the miss follows where the coil pack is put then i can safely say the coil pack is rooted right ? My split fires should be here soon so ill just chuck them in and see from there if i dont get a change to swap the coil packs around.

Thanks for the offer bud. Ive already got the coil packs coming so ill prob just wait for them, install them and see how i go from there. Atleast i can rule out them as the cause if the problem is still there. I can drive the car if i have to but id rather not for now till i get the coils done atleast. I may need to borrow or buy that injector off you though if the coils arent the problem. So ill let you know champ. I really appreciate the offer tho. Thanks!

That sounds alot like what happened to me but it skipped the constant miss part lol it just had a slight miss here and there but ran well after i did the service with the new plugs. Then all of a sudden its like sumone flicked a switch and that first cylinder turned off. i would borrow some coils but i dont know anyone else with the same car. My plan of attack is Wait for coils packs to arrive. Install them and see if its still there. Then check injector pulse and injectors. Then if its still there ill move to AFM then ECU. Hopefully its just the coils or something easy lol But yeh which other workshop in melb knows their gtr's well besides racepace?

Yes i have bought a power fc but haven't got it installed yet. I also have a new water pump, cam gears, timing belt and those seals coming along with the coil packs. Maybe i should just get it all done at once. But thanks for the other info guys. I will get my mechanic to check the injectors are actually pulsing and if they are then maybe the injector is clogged. I've got a good idea of what to check now tho. Thanks fellas On another note who else in Melbourne (pref around the city area or not ages away) knows GTR's like the back of their hand besides racepace?(they are abit far for me) I need the power fc + boost controller installed and tuned, water pump, cam gears, timing belt, seals and split fires all installed. thanks

Not sure. Do you think it could be the injector fkd or clogged and not putting the right amount of fuel in ? How would i check that ? or maybe ill just get my mechanic to do it. Im sure he would know what to do. Thanks tho ill put it on the list of things to check when i take it to the mechanic again. Ive got a set of 'split fire coil packs' coming so ill put them in when they arrive in a few days and see if the problem persists. If it does then ill look at what you suggested. Thanks

I did a search and i didnt find what i was after so here is my problem. I was driving home the other night and all of a sudden my r32 gtr had a mis fire. Its over the whole rev range and sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders. So i took it to my mechanic and we narrowed it down to the first cylinder(the one furtherest to the front of the car) by pulling each coil pack plug and listening to see which one didnt change the exhaust note. The funny thing is that every now n then its fine and doesnt miss but majority of the time it does have the problem. What could be the problem ? Stuffed coil pack? Coil pack Plug wires loose? (we did wiggle the wires while the the plug was connected and engine running it didnt change anything, the miss was still there) Also i just replaced the spark plugs with bkr7e's about 1000kms ago and its been running really good with them up until this happened. We also tested another spark plug in the 1st cylinder and the miss was still there and pulling the coil pack plug on and off made no difference. The miss was still there with and without the 1st coil pack connected. The ignitor plug, bolts and earth cable at the back of the coil pack cover are all connected also. My guess is its the coil pack fkd, but im no mechanic so i wanted to get some opinions on here first. Any help would be great. thanks

Yeh ive put it down to the switch aswell as sometimes the left headlight works and sometimes it doesnt. Sometimes it comes on after a few seconds and others not. Ill do the switch when i get some time. Cheers mate

Getrag is anything but weak hehe Their known for being very strong.

Ive done a fair reading and the like about diff oils for R32 GTR's and just want to confirm if these are alright to use and alternatives that others use. Front diff - (open) **Im thinking about using Penrite HYPOID 80/90 which is for open diff and is close to factory spec oil of 85w-90. Penrite actually recommend: Front differential oil TRANSAXLE 75 and LIMSLIP 90 Redline recommend If Open or spool use Red Line 'Lightweight Shockproof'. Rear diff - (LSD) **Im going to use Penrite LIMSLIP 90 which is 85w-140 and is ment for LSD diffs obviously. Penrite also recommended LIMSLIP 90 for the rear diff. Redline Recommend If LSD use Red Line '80W140'; Castrol recommend Castrol SAF-XA 80w-140 GL5 limited slip differential oil for rear and front diffs. Nissan handbook says Front diff - Nissan Gear oil hypoid GL-5 85w90 non lsd Rear diff - Nissan Gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80w-90 Now my questions are 1. Will the penrite oils ive said be fine to use ? 2. Is it true that lsd oil can be use in non lsd diff but not visa versa ? 3. The fact spec oil is 80w-90 for the rear diff but all the recommedations are 80/85w-140. What is the difference between them ? If anyone else can tell me what they have used in the front and rear diffs in their gtrs, and how those oils have performed that would be great. Any other help would be greatly appreciated aswell as im a tiny bit confused and just want to clear things up. Cheers

clamp either side of the hose that joins the filter at the ends then remove and replace the filter ? this should minimise the fuel lost im guessing.

Sorry to bring up an old thread again but just wanted to ask a few things. On my r32 gtr i turn the headlight switch up once and the parkers go on fine. Then up one more for the headlights and only the right low beam headlight comes on (rarely they will both come on). Then i pull the high beam lever towards the steering wheel and both high beams come on but so does the left low beam light. Now when i push the high beam leaver away from the steering wheel only the right high beam comes on. Neither high or low beam on the left comes on. Now i know its not the globes because they all seem to come on at one time or another. So im guessing either fuses or more than likely the switch like the rest of you have experienced. Anything else it could be ? thanks

so if the gates belt is correctly tensioned with new pulleys then it shouldnt hum ?

Cheers mate. I'm beginning to think that there the same part just a different number because ive seen both quoted a few times each. Same with the oil filter, ive got 15208-H8911 and AY100-NS007 not sure which one to get.

Cheers, Also i have two different numbers for the genuine fuel filters for a gtr. Which is right? AY505Ns004 or 16400-53J10 ? thanks

And how about the genuine fuel filter for a 32 gtr? Ive got 2 numbers thru posts AY505NS004 or 16400-53J10 Anyone know which is correct? Thanks

Does $35 sound about right for a genuine nissan one ?

Exactly the same things happens to mine when its cold. As soon as you hit abit of positive pressure it starts to splutter but when its up2 normal driving temp its fine.

id like to grab one of them but im not on the list

i believe its called lock tight ?

It is actually abit similar to the problem this guy had. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102476 When it was cutting out i gave it more throttle and the boost wouldn't go above 10psi..

Did a search and didnt really find much(Everyone says thats, so maybe i didnt search hard enough hehe) I have a 90 model r32 gtr and was driving on the freeway. Cruising at ~100 km/h and was off boost. Then came up to a slight incline in the road so i accelerated a little to keep my speed at around 100 km/h. With the acceleration the boost pressure is now positive but only making 1 or 2 psi as im only slightly pushing the throttle to maintain the speed going up the slight hill. The car then starts 'cutting out' and spluttering and the Cat temp light on the dash lights up. Then i slowed down to about 80 km/h and down geared to 4th and hit the throttle and it boosts smooth and doesn't miss or cut out or splutter. I then go back to cruising at 100 km and come up to another hill so i accelerate abit to maintain speed(cruising at 2 or 3psi) and get up the incline and the same thing happens again. It cuts off and splutters and the Cat temp light comes on and goes off a few seconds after i get off the throttle. The car drives fine around town and doesn't misfire or cut out while cruising or at WOT. This has happened to me before on the freeway and i didn't think anything of it (Cat temp light didn't come up that time). It only seems to happen when I'm at around 100 km/h and really slightly come on boost and try to maintain the low boost(2 or 3 psi) as i cruise. Its abit hard to explain in words. So if anyone has any ideas or does understand what is happening any help would be appreciated greatly. I had a turbo back exhaust put on a few months ago and I'm guessing the cat temp sensor was retained in the after market high flow cat because otherwise it wouldn't come on at all if it wasn't connected. Also Have standard Computer so its not the power fc showing high knock readings. TIA!

Give up studying and make these for a living lol How long do they take to make dude?

So if there not 100% perfect does that mean they will stick out or sit weird? lol i have no idea about offsets n that stuff so excuse the silly question.