sponaugle

OP: Like you, I have a 1990 R32 GTR here in the US (Oregon). As part of my suspension refresh I have completely removed the Hicas system, including the rear components, the hardlines, and the front solenoids. It is pretty easy work, removes quite a bit of weight, and does reduce some of the odd handling caused by Hicas. If you ever decide to do a suspension rebuilt, drop me a note.. I can give you all of the details on where to get the replacement parts here in the US. Jeff

One other note: I measured both the kingpin and well as that lower bearing from my car and they confirm some other measurements I read online. It is a 31mm inside and 58mm outside. That is a pretty atypical size, especially the 31mm part. That may explain the BAT31-1B part number I see on it. The 6907 number referenced above translates to a 35mm inside and 55mm outside bearing, regardless of NTN of NSK. The kingpin part itself, at least for the 300ZX is listed as 40022-60U05. According to several online sources that is the correct R32 part number. If the 300zx and R32 part numbers are indeed the same then the lower bearing used on the 300ZX must also be 31mm inside diameter.. Of course that doesn't mean the outside diameter is the same! One last option I could consider: There are some readily available 58mm outside and 28mm inside bearings of the same thickness and construction. It would be very easy to take the two king pins and have them turned down from 31mm to 28mm and use those bearings. Thoughts? Jeff

I have a 1990 R32 GTR, and I need to replace the kingpin bearings. In digging around in many of the threads on this topic, there seems to be a general unavailability of the lower bearing. Front what I have collected so far from these threads: Upper Bearing Nissan Part Number: 40030-33P07 Lower Bearing Nissan Part Number: 40030-60U00 Upper Seal Nissan Part Number: 40579-33P01 Lower Seal Nissan Part Number: 40290-33P00 Proposed Upper Bearing Mfg Part Number: NSK-6204V or NTN-2N0804 Proposed Lower Bearing Mfg Part Number: NTN-6907LB I pulled the arms off my car and took at look at the bearings, and I found the following: Upper Bearing Mfg Part Number: NTN-6204LB (Not NSK-6204V) Lower Bearing Mfg Part Number: NSK, BAT31-1B , S32 (Those were the three marks on the casing). The Upper Bearing, if it is NSK-6204V or NTN-6204LB, is something easy to find. There are multiple online bearing places here in the US that have them. I can also order the part number listed above from Nissan ( 40030-33P07 ). It is listed as a part for the TT 300ZX. The Lower Bearing I have is an NSK one, with what looks like a part number of NSK-BAT31-1B. I can't find a reference for that part number anywhere. If I look up the NTN-6907LB I do find some chinese sites that reference it, but nothing that looks ligit. Here is what I am curious about: If I search for the Nissan part number listed above ( 40030-60U00 ), it is easy to find as it is a Nissan 300ZX part. I can order that from a dealer here. In a few threads there is mention that the 'nissan part number' is not correct, although I have not seen a reference to exactly which part number everyone is talking about. I could just go ahead and order the nissan part and see what I get. Does anyone have a definitive answer about the correctness of the two nissan part numbers? ( 40030-33P07 and 40030-60U00 )? Any other sources for the lower bearing? Cheers, Jeff Sponaugle

I'm not sure how I didn't notice this thread earlier: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/ My mistake. It outlines the AFM problem and resoldering, which I'll do right away. Jeff

Will do. I was surprised on how many threads (especially in the UK GTR forums) that mentioned bad ignitor caused by excessive heat and time. Since I am planning on switching to a Vipec/Link with speed density I'll be ditching the MAFS at some point anyways, but I'll dig into the AFM connectors and see if there is a problem there. Cheers, Jeff

Interesting. Is it a common problem that the wire connectors into the MAFs have loose connections? That certainly is an easy task to do.. and with the consult II I could log the AFM voltages and see if one of them has a significant deviation. Of course temperature expansion can have a big effect on crimped connections, especially 25 year old ones. I'll take a look at those connections. Thanks for the input. Jeff

Greetings, I’m new to this forum, and recently imported to the US a Japanese 1990 R32 GT-R with about 70k km on the clock. As most of you know the US 25 year import limitations make these early R32s very attractive here in the states. The R32 has a few modifications, as documented by the exporter: BNR34N1 engine block Tomei Camshafts Tomei head gasket 1.2mm Tomei turbine outlet BNR34 Gold Brembo Brakes (Front and Rear) BNR34 Turbos BNR34 Injector Mines VX-ROM ECU Nismo sport clutch KIT oil catch tank copper two-layer radiator RS-R muffler harmonic drive nismo Mines 320km meter The body is in decent condition, especially for a 25 year old car. The interior is reasonable, but worn. I’m still determining what I am going to do, but I suspect I'll do a built block, a pair of GT3071s, A Vipec ECU, and shoot for 600whp (450kw) on E85. I'm curious to see what oil pump is on the car, since it appears the block was swapped for an R34N1 block. Before my question, and since I have not posted before, a small introduction. While I am new to the R32, I have a few other cars that are of the same flavor… and from what I saw on the roads in Australia they not far from the Australian enthusiast mark! I have an 08 STI with the usual Subaru stuff like a built block, Cosworth Heads and Cams, EFR7670 turbo, Cobb, Perrin headers, exhaust, etc. It makes ~480whp (360kw) on pump fuel. I also have a 2002 WRX with a somewhat uncommon setup, as I swapped in an built EZ30R from the US Tribeca. It is a 3.0L 6 cylinder with a Garrett 35R turbo, custom manifolds and exhaust, Vipec ECU, built transmission and JDM STI drivetrain. It makes about 520whp(390kw) on E85, and is mostly a track car. In even more Australian form, I have a 2006 Pontiac GTO ( aka Holden Monaro ) with a twin-turbo setup running 2 GT3071s. On the previous turbos I made bit over 620whp(460kw), but with the 3071s I should have no problem getting 750whp(560kw) once I get the fuel system finished. Closer to the GTR territory, My daily driver is a 2014 R35 GT-R with some minor modifications; Replacement IHI7156 turbochargers (similar to the GTX2971R), ID1300s, Fully built PPG/Jacks Transmission, Cobb Downpipes and Midpipes, HKS Legamax Exhaust, 752whp (560kw). (details: http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/112120-2014-dyno-tuning-sbd8001000-flex-fuel-lots-of-data/) All fun cars, built and calibrated myself. Anyways, on the root of my question: My R32 appears to have an interesting stumble. While driving the car everything runs great (Both full throttle and light load), but about 30 mins into a drive I have been getting a significant misfire event. It is enough of a misfire to keep the car from going much over 20 mph, and even in neutral the car has a hard time reving past 3k rpm. The onset is sudden, and in most cases it stays until I turn the car off and let it cool a bit. On a few occasions it has happened and gone away 20-30 seconds later. In all cases this is after the car is hot, and peak outside temperatures have been ~35C as well. It appears to be partially temperature related, and when it is not happening power delivery is very smooth. I did research across many of the threads on this forum as well as a few others, and I can see a few different potential sources: (1) An ignition problem – either bad coils, or a bad ignitor. Given the massive loss of power in what appears to be all 6 cylinders, I would tend towards the ignitor. Since I don’t know the history of the car, and the car is 25 years old, It would not be unreasonable that the ignitor is failing. After driving a bit the ignitor gets pretty hot sitting in the engine valley. (2) A problem with the MAF sensors - This same kind of significant power hesitation could be caused by a very lean or very rich mixture, which could happen with a bad MAF sensor. This seems less likely, as there were occasions where the problem came and went over a very short period of time. (3) A problem with the CAS sensors. - The siginificant of the misfire could be a result of the CAS sensor and ECU losing sync. There are backfires during this event, suggesting ignition occuring late in the cycle. I am not familiar with the rate of failure of the CAS sensor. (4) A problem with the fuel system (injectors, fuel pressure regulator, pump, filter, etc). A possibility, however on the few occasions where the problem cycled on and off, it seemed very rapid both in rate of failure, and rate of recovery which seems like a poor match. All of these are possible of course, but it would seem #1 is the first cause I would investigate. To help diagnose, I removed the coils, spark plugs, and ignitor. The coils looked undamaged, and all measured 0.9 – 1.0. I replaced the plugs with new BCPR7EIX plugs gapped to about .8mm. When reinstalling, I left off the valley cover, and ziptied the ignitor to the strut tower brace so as to keep it a little farther away from the heat. Testing after this showed some improvement but the problem still occurred later in the day (perhaps after some heat soak). As a test I brought along a can of compressed air, and used that the cool down the ignitor (turning the can upside down produces a very cold difluoroethane mix). That did seem to help a bit, however not as much as I would have expected, and not enough to convince me of the source. So, any comments on my analysis? I could purchase new coils and a new ignitor as a starting point, and I have a consult 2 cable in route for further information collecting. Cheers, Jeff