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Everything posted by Tangles01
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Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate?
Tangles01 replied to Tangles01's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Correct, just emphasizing the fact it will need to be right, if I was just slamming together a fresh stockie I wouldn't both with any toque plate at all, let along using one while trying to gap the rings. But for this I am going to a great deal of time and effort to make the engine as efficient, safe and powerful as I can within reason and for my goals. -
Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate?
Tangles01 replied to Tangles01's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That would be idea, but I've never used these guys before, don't know if they'd be down with that. I know if I was them I wouldn't load one out, different story for a long time customer or someone you know personally. -
Target 400 RWKW RB25 DET Torque Plate? Hi, I've done some searching and couldn't find a response, sorry if it does exist or if this has been discussed already. I'm building an engine currently for my time attack car. I'm a control freak and want to manage all of the build that i possibly can. However I am not a machine shop so don't have that gear. I've got a machine shop lined up and intend to have my block torque plate machined. Meaning that the rings should also be gaped with a torque plate. So I should provide them with the rings etc and have them gaped. My problem with that is I cannot then check those without the torque plate at home. Now I've just had a light bulb moment... Why not bolt the head on and gap the ring from the underside as I'll have the bare block on a stand. Am I missing something? Is there any reason I cannot do this? Am I an idiot for thinking this is a good idea? Any engine builders or experienced guys want to poke holes in it? I can think of some small negatives but nothing drastic really, just having to reach further in with the feeler gauges, might be harder to square them while deeper in and poor light really. apart from that... I can't see why not? Admin sorry if I'm in the wrong topic, seemed to be the best one.
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SO I still Owned the car during Japnats earlier this year. Had a mate who is a genuinely goof steerer enter it for me as I ran the new R32 to defend my Best mates title in the car, as he was no longer around to do it (Ive taken the car on since he's passed away). Here' 2 vids of the 33's last ride, and my go in the 32 (just a single fast lap). I might need to start a new thread for the 32.
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I know that's mechanical damage, I was asking if I were to use it it would be a sight where detonation would accord due to the thinner raised area (even if I removed most of it) getting hot. But as they aren't forged I don't think it's worth the risk anyway. If they were forged like I was advised then I would have considered it, pending some feedback.
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Ok, Thanks guys. The more I looked the more I felt they were not forged. Can anyone confirm my thought about a detonations sight? I assume that piston will need to be binned. Rebuild near certainty, just weigh up up the options now.
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RB25 Forged? ID and Damage Hey guys, I've spent the last while having a decent look trying to fin my precise questions to save having to post, so sorry if this is a repeat but I doubt it, I couldn't find the answers I needed at least. It's 2 part thing. RB25DET (bulk mods not relevant to the question) A: Can anyone positively identify these pistons form the photo/markings? I have been advised they are a forged piston but cannot find confirmation. B: The damage near the edge (actually a pop rivet ended up in the motor, don't ask me how). I'm concerned if it were to be used that it could be a detonation site. Car made (on the current engine) 333 rwkw at 21 PSI. It's a beast. But the engine has developed a knock and I've found some small metallic fragments, although not many, the oil has been in the car for about 35 laps of QR over 2 weeks and the knock has only just started (literally on the last lap) so while it's not a lot, it's not like it's been there long and if it's just started it would make sense to find just a small amount yeah?. So looking at pulling and a rebuild anyway, but have these pistons here already, if they are forged I'd like to use them, but not if it's going to cost me another build later because of that damage. Any help from experienced gurus is very very welcome. It does get some serious use use per this vid: 20170425_124931.mp4
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Yeah -3.5 is what made sense to me based on the geometry and body roll characteristics... I've got some upper arms which should get me the -3 not, if needed I'll get adjustable LCSA's for the rest, but if I can get at least -3 it will be a decent start. Thank for the info man.
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Yeah it's not wear i'm worried about, purely grip levels cheers.
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So from what I can see you just have Cusco upper adjustable arms and running -3 degree camber... Anything I've missed? How do the front tyre shoulders fair at -3?
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Hey man, is -3 degree the max you can get out of the Cusco arms? I have my own 33 GTS track car/build and I'm starting to destroy shoulders now I've sorted the chassis rigidity and ride height all out. It'll only get worse when I put semis on. -3 Is probably a good start currently all front arms are stock.
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Any lap times?