NZ-GTT

I see thanks.

Nice work! How did you remove the pins from the connector blocks? I could not get mine out so I had to cut and solder wires.

In that case I need to go "rooting" around my shed for anything JDM and list it for sale.

Excuse my ignorance here but what use would this be outside of Japan? I can't think of any reason why i would want a device broadcasting my credit card details. I have a BMW that I imported from Japan and it has one of these built into the rear view mirror. It will never see my credit card. Glad you managed to sell it.

Why GTR rear axles?

There are plenty 33 gtr brake calipers on Yahoo auctions but man are they expensive now. I just did a quick search and here is the cheapest set. https://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/f374775838 Buy the time they have been overhauled, powder coated with new rotors and pads they will most likely have surpassed the cost of something aftermarket and better. I also look forward to your progress.

Looking at that cylinder, it is well worn and was just given a hone because 87mm is as far as you can go. Glad to see you are starting over with another block.

Not accurately but side by side they looked to be identical as in number of threads and length of the shank.

Most likely is the case since the RB26 ARP bolt comes with the washer and the "supposed RB30 bolt does not. You have to reuse the factory washer.

I would buy the ARP bolt and torque it to ARP specs.

I'm also interested in this. I see D22 gearbox's going really cheap sometimes.

AKA hot bolting. +1 for doing this.

Before you go tightening that bolt too much, have a read here: I stretched that 1st bolt almost 1mm when compared to another 2 factory bolts. I then purchased an ARP bolt from Spool Imports but it did not come with torque specs, so used the recommended for a M16 bolt on the ARP website. Car is running now no issues yet. I just checked it last week. With regards to the MIG welding, I'm no expert welder but a MIG does not penetrate very well. It would be better if you can get your hands on a TIG.

It looks like the timing belt was replaced and the crank bolt was not tightened enough. It is not easy to achieve the oem 152nm (RB25 & 30) torque spec with the engine in the car. this guy has got it sorted though: If it was my engine, I would replace the woodruff key and buy an ARP crank bolt, then tighten to their spec which is a lot tighter. From memory it was 250nm. Find TDC and mark it on the harmonic balancer.

Yeah I read that article and then went and bought a set of front and rear Z33 calipers with used rotors for $700. I looked into trying to fit the rears but there were no adapters available so got some R33 GTR rears which bolted straight on.

There looks to be plenty of room in front of the engine already.

I have Z33 front calipers and rotors on my GTT and I did not need to do cut the lip on the dust covers. There is just enough room to accommodate them. They may have touched on a few spots which was easily bent away with a flat screwdriver.

But different to Z33 ones right?

Are you sure they are R34 GTR calipers? It is very common to install Z33 front Brembo calipers but the rears don't fit. If you have front a rear Brembos then they would most likely be R34 GTR ones. And the rotors are different between BNR34 and Z33.

Totally, thanks for pointing it out.

Could be useful information for some who wants to keep their car stock looking and not chasing performance.

Nice work, as much as I hate cutting holes in cars I used the exact same location to get the pipe through for a FMIC. I still relocated the battery to the boot on my R34 and it makes room in the battery tray location for other goodies.

Disagree, It is a very critical component being part of the steering. Not saying this one will come loose if it is RFT and has a good split pin, but I know of people who have died from a tie rod end failing.

I would not unbolt old turbo and bolt on a $300 chinese turbo.

Totally agree, and that is what makes this forum awesome for me,