NZ-GTT

Well I definitely did not do this for an investment but rather for what I want. Buying a N/A GT and then modifying to what you want it to be rather than paying extra for GTT and then modifying it is a viable option IMHO.

Can you expand on this? If the fuse blew then there is a fault that needs further troubleshooting. A relay is highly unlikely to blow the fuse.

I started with a GTT and replaced A,C,D,E,F,G, only kept B the transmission which can be purchased new from Amayama for $4500 delivered to my door. 6+ years ago It was better to buy a GTT as I did but with current GTT prices this is definitely a viable option now if you intend to modify the crap out of it as I have. I have had my GTT for 7 seven years now and it was good fun to drive though while I acquired all the parts I wanted to modify it over the first 4 years.

I presume the 80lb is seat pressure compared to approximately 20lb stock seat pressure. With such an increase what's the effect on on valve seats, guides etc? 20lb does seem low though.

I'm not too fussed about it, I just thought I would add to the confusion. Physically these -5 turbine housings look to have a bigger snail when compared to stock R32 turbos but definitely have 0.48 A/R on them.

I recently bought a set of twins which are advertised as -5's but on the turbine housing it is stamped 0.48 A/R yet advertised as 0.64, Anyone know what's up with that? Here's the box they came in:

Exhaust valves could be bent but as mentioned a leak down test will reveal any damage.

If you are set on going with a Vcam then choose the cams that match the step you want so that you won't have to buy another exhaust cam,

I wouldn't bother with the stock ecu. Just install the Link and follow the setup instructions

You can change the engine capacity in PC link. Go to: ECU Settings>Fuel>Fuel Setup>Fuel Main>Engine Capacity

Return them. For such a critical component it is not worth the doubt.

Nice project. What was involved with fitting the dc5 integra recaro. What rails did you use?

That's a really clean R31. Nice

Someone who has raced RB's would definitely know.

My first guess is a big end bearing. Grand kids probably borrowed it.

My recommendation for cams is Kelford but anything that is drop in is not worth it.

Do you have a power goal? I know your question is about cams but I don't think you will get much more out of -9 turbos. Personally I wouldn't bother with Poncams.

I'm curious to know whether the OP had to modify the chassis legs to clear the front axles. It would be a show stopper in NZ. See the raised section on the BNR34 chassis:

Post some pics please?

Take it to a machine shop and they will measure it, check for cracks and straightness. RB cranks can be ground undersize. Don't believe all the hype about them being nitrided it's a fallacy.

Cheap quality products sounds like a win to me. I have used a hose kit from Ali for a RB26 and it all fiitted perfect. No complaints here. Or you could pay extra to a local seller that has imported it from China

Boost sensors have a linear output of 0-5V relative to whatever the input pressure range of the sensor is. So if the factory sensor that appears to be a 2 bar map sensor was changed out to a 3 bar, the output voltage to the ecu remains at 0-5V but with a larger pressure range.

According to the Nistune Neo tuning guide you can increase boost to 18 psi by increasing the boost sensor fuel cut table to a maximum of 5100 millivolts. Is it possible to change the factory sensor for a 3 bar map sensor and then tune to increase boost to 30 psi?

The screen is likely faulty. Early models used a Sharp lcd screen and then Nissan changed to a Toshiba screen. I know the Toshiba is a universal screen TFD58W30MM I purchased one off Aliexpress and it works perfect, all plug n play.