Robo's

Well i didnt race but i watched. Saw the R34 run 3 times best was a 13.0@112. He could have ran a quicker time earlier as i got there late.

Ok guys, im running my beast, im going for a 11.

I give it enough revs (upto 5000rpm) and use the clutch as a cushion. You have to balance it between grip and spin. With this technique ive got down to 1.94 60' but commonly 2.0

Tonight apparently

Wouldnt mind coming down as the car is ready but the hot weather is putting me off. Bass, i want to see 115mph with RWKW

Is that MAtts old car?

Ive ran a few of these LS1's and there quite easy to get 250rwkw from with just bolt ons. My brother has one with 250rwkw and its still no match for my R33. I was neck and neck with one which has pushing over 300rwkw with heads and cam mods and it runs 11.5 at the track. Also ran one with a small blower on it and he couldnt catch me. Not bad for only mid 230rwkw's from my 33.

Apparently it was one of the CAPA stunt utes

Paul I bought a AVCR boost pressure sensor from Nengun. I have a 3 pin plug for my power FC. It reads boost but its wrong. I have my set my boost pressure at .65 bar via the power fc to read 20psi at my guage. My low boost is set at .50 bar. I believe something is wrong with the boost pressure sensor? I had to manually wire it up as it didnt have the correct plugs. Any ideas as i have double checked the wiring.

Whats the difference between these cats and a 3 inch hi-flow cat when you only have a 3 inch dump pipe collector?

Yeah tried that but still its pretty crap, i suppose im being fussy when the sun is on it

Anyone know how to brighten the lights up on it? In the day light its very hard to read.

Ive got the PFC boost controller with 3 boost settings. On hot days i change to a softer boost setting. On cool days or when im out cruising with the boys, i select high which is 20psi. Ive got a an aggressive tune so with high boost i do see some knock (60+). On a hot day i would certainly hate to select high boost. As far as in gear boosts variations, this would be a handy feature to some high powered cars. With my old 255/40/17 Sumo's this would have been nice in the first 2 gears. But i bought some Street R compound tyres and now i get full traction in any gear. My 2 cents worth.

What have you set your boost on with your Power FC hand controller?

Ive messaged this guy selling these Power FC's for $200 for a R33. Must be something dodgy but i cant get it of him!! Heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Apexi-power-fc-r33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I also noticed Extreme 100 reducing my knock levels

Where is the knock sensor located?

I have familiar results with my tuned R33 with a HKS 2535 running decent boost. I always get 40 knock on start up. As far as fixing your problem, its not your A/F ratios that is causing the knock, its the timing. You are probably running too much timing. The only way to trace it, is to use the MAP Trace and finding what RPM you are knocking at. However, i have refused to do this as i cannot hear any ping on my car and the old rule of thumb is to advance it until it knocks and the retard it a little. I've been running like this for over a year now, but ive always got one ear open and one eye on the knock. Also i have just found that the new Shell Extreme Fuel (100) is reducing my knock, i like it.

106 seems a bit high on start up but mine always pushes 40 on start up. So i reset as soon as i start it

Please dont compare fuel maps. If you have altered your fuel pressure with a varaible fuel pressure reg, of course your fuel maps are going to be different

Paul, Your running alot of timing in the middle. What kind of knock?

Put some more boost into her and pull some timing out. Trace it with the map trace and find out where she is pinging and then pull some timing out .

Im not sure but you seem to be running very little timing at load point 16, like 14 degrees is nothing. Why dont you try and increase this (you can add 1 degree to the whole table and test it, watch for knock and move upwards, say 2 degrees, this should give you a nice increase in power) I dont think my timing drops below 19 and im running 20psi

What load point are you reaching on your PFC map so we can align it with your ignition table

Well ive actually tried this method after fitting my Splitfires. I went back to 1.1 gap and it started to missfire, 1.0 still misfirred, and finally .85 mm is where i absolutely get no misfire running around 19psi boost, so i have found my optimum spark gap.